Whiteline Diff cradle mount, steering rack bushings, etc..

[Thongpocket]

I want to install my whiteline diff cradle mount kit myself but it calls for the dirvers side mount to be cut out with an air saw, which I do not have. Has anyone done this with hand tools? I also want to install the rear subframe lockdown kit and steering rack bushings. Is it true and alignment is needed after you do the steering rack bushings? If so, since I just got it aligned after my coilovers, I will wait for my whiteline rear lower control arms to come in before I install it all. Thanks for any help you can provide.

[mrk1]

I don't know if an air saw is needed but any press in bushing is going to take some thought to get out at home.

I didn't get an alignment after installing the TIC rack bushings and I don't see how it would effect the alignment at all.

[Thongpocket]

This particular bushing is one of the huge to rubber bushings on the backside of the differential that you can see when looking from the rear of the car. I haven't tried to press it out yet I'm just going by white lines instructions. I agree with you about the alignment what I saw on here where someone had installed them and said that you need to get an alignment afterwards.

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[wparsons]

They suggest an alignment after the steering rack bushings because you have to remove the rack to install them. Your toe settings won't change, but depending on how centered the rack was before and how centered it is after your wheel might not be centered with the wheels straight after the install. If you don't mind the wheel being a tiny bit off center then you don't need an alignment.

You can probably press out the bushings if you get creative with sockets, C clamps and some scraps of metal, but there isn't a ton of room back there to get them out.

[Travisty75]

Originally Posted by wparsons

They suggest an alignment after the steering rack bushings because you have to remove the rack to install them. Your toe settings won't change, but depending on how centered the rack was before and how centered it is after your wheel might not be centered with the wheels straight after the install. If you don't mind the wheel being a tiny bit off center then you don't need an alignment.

You can probably press out the bushings if you get creative with sockets, C clamps and some scraps of metal, but there isn't a ton of room back there to get them out.

Since the steering is electric assisted on these cars it goes through a diagnostic check every time you start the car. If you install the bushings and it isn't in the same spot it was it may fail that check and throw warning lights. There have been a few threads about guys causing damage to their front ends, repairing the parts, and then getting the lights because they didn't get it aligned.

You may get away with it, but you may not. I installed the Perrin Steering Lockdown kit and my car was fine without getting an alignment, but I didn't change out the factory bushings.


As for installing the rear bushings: I did the differential outrigger bushings (here) and the Differential Support Bushings (here).

The outrigger bushings, I dropped the whole differential assembly, then heated/burned out the rubber (BIG WARNING: These bushings are liquid filled, and that liquid boils under high heat. I do NOT suggest you do like I did and burn out the rubber portion!). With the rubber gone, I collapsed the sleeves in on itself and popped it out. Installation was easy after that.

For the In Cradle Bushing, I stuck a long pry bar in the metal sleeve in the bushing, pulled down so that it bound up the whole bushing (just to create tension to cut the rubber easier), then used a razor blade and cut the rubber out. After it was out, I used my sawzall and made a cut on one side of the sleeve. You have to be VERY careful that you don't cut too far and in to the subframe, so take your time. As soon as you make that incision, the bushing sleeve falls out. Reinstallation is very easy for that as well.