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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 12-04-2013, 11:10 PM   #2829
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How do I tell which controller I have?
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:14 PM   #2830
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How do I tell which controller I have?
The 5kw is about 50 percent bigger. Its more square looking. It has more expensive electronics in it and different programming to handle the additional load. I believe DR is also more sensitive... I actually had to turn mine down initially.

It will look like this:



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Old 12-04-2013, 11:33 PM   #2831
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I must have the older controller. Has one heat sink and a fan.
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:42 PM   #2832
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Count me in when it releases! Already have header, tune, and just did E85 swap today!
In reading over the last few days...
● someone said launch control and flat foot shift would cause problems, another pedal switch in series at top of clutch pedal will fix that, maybe we could tap into the original clutch switch?
● if batteries are mounted in trunk, how heavy gauge wire is needed for the 24v battery? Can both battery packs (12v and 24v) use common chassis ground?
● I believe the control box would be best placed in front of the radiator as high as possible
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:44 PM   #2833
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Did someone on here say they had an odyssey battery with the system?
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Old 12-05-2013, 12:14 AM   #2834
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I have an Odyssey PC 925 battery for the starter.
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:15 AM   #2835
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● someone said launch control and flat foot shift would cause problems, another pedal switch in series at top of clutch pedal will fix that, maybe we could tap into the original clutch switch?
The system does not have (or need) a BOV. But with launch control and flat foot shifting you'd have the compressor spinning at 100% with the throttle plate slamming open and closed.

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● if batteries are mounted in trunk, how heavy gauge wire is needed for the 24v battery? Can both battery packs (12v and 24v) use common chassis ground?
To reduce voltage drop, you want the boost batteries as close as possible to the controller and compressor. Additionally, when you look at the weight of 1/0 cables (about 10 pounds), you would add a lot of weight to the car...which would have a more negative effect then the minimal improvement that you'd achieve with weight distribution. All of the batteries use chassis ground.

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● I believe the control box would be best placed in front of the radiator as high as possible
This has been discussed and I believe Rob supports the idea of this location. The down-side is that you have to remove the bumper cover to gain access. If you're comfortable doing that you should be good to go.
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:33 AM   #2836
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The system does not have (or need) a BOV. But with launch control and flat foot shifting you'd have the compressor spinning at 100% with the throttle plate slamming open and closed.
With a second switch (in series with WOT switch) mounted at top of clutch pedal travel, it would deactivate compressor as soon as you press the clutch.
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Old 12-05-2013, 09:04 AM   #2837
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With a second switch (in series with WOT switch) mounted at top of clutch pedal travel, it would deactivate compressor as soon as you press the clutch.
I don't see a down-side to this approach.
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Old 12-05-2013, 11:34 AM   #2838
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To reduce voltage drop, you want the boost batteries as close as possible to the controller and compressor. Additionally, when you look at the weight of 1/0 cables (about 10 pounds), you would add a lot of weight to the car...which would have a more negative effect then the minimal improvement that you'd achieve with weight distribution. All of the batteries use chassis ground.
10 pounds of 1/0 wire is not what we were hoping to here.

lesser of 2 evils:
add ~15 lbs to the already heavy front end
OR drop ~25 lbs from the heavy front end and add ~50 lbs to the light rear end
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Old 12-05-2013, 11:58 AM   #2839
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I have an Odyssey PC 925 battery for the starter.
How do you like it? On the cold starts for e85 its already starting to take 2 starts before the car rumbles to life. Little worried about the little battery if I have to do 5 starts in a row. What was the cost?
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Old 12-05-2013, 12:02 PM   #2840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by no chrome View Post
10 pounds of 1/0 wire is not what we were hoping to here.

lesser of 2 evils:
add ~15 lbs to the already heavy front end
OR drop ~25 lbs from the heavy front end and add ~50 lbs to the light rear end
Yet another great aspect to this rig - the overall setup is so simple, you can probably customize it how you like (though I'm sure at that point whatever warranty Rob provides may well be null and void).
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Old 12-05-2013, 12:19 PM   #2841
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How do you like it? On the cold starts for e85 its already starting to take 2 starts before the car rumbles to life. Little worried about the little battery if I have to do 5 starts in a row. What was the cost?
Alternately Rob suggests this battery.

http://www.atbatt.com/ps-12350.asp

This is also a Power-Sonic 12V SLA battery with NB terminals but this one is a 35ah battery vs. the 21ah of the PSH-12180FR. While I don't really need the extra starting power, I do have concerns with parasite losses while parking the car at an airport for a weak.

This battery fits a little better with the boost batteries (closer in size) and is half the price of the Odyssey PC 925 and has about the same output.
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Old 12-05-2013, 12:20 PM   #2842
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Alternately Rob suggests this battery.

http://www.atbatt.com/ps-12350.asp

This is also a Power-Sonic 12V SLA battery with NB terminals but this one is a 35ah battery vs. the 21ah of the PSH-12180FR. While I don't really need the extra starting power, I do have concerns with parasite losses while parking the car at an airport for a weak.

This battery fits a little better with the boost batteries (closer in size) and is half the price of the Odyssey PC 925 and has about the same output.
Thanks for the heads up.
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