Official FT86Club 3D printing thread! - Page 10 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

LimitedSlip · 04-27-2021, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86league

Updated the original post with the link to thingiverse where the .stl files are hosted.

Thingverse can't seem to find:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4840911

Is the number correct or has the project been removed?

Thanks!

nwgabrz · 04-27-2021, 01:40 PM

I've always been interested in Innovated Dynamics's FR-S brake ducts and but since I own a BRZ, I've never purchased them. But with contemplation of swapping to a FR-S front bumper, I've thought about those ducts again. Unfortunately Innovated Dynamics has now shut down. Of course, there are other brake duct kits on the market such as the one made by APR, and others, but in terms of design, I liked the Innovated Dynamics version.

Another one that I like, but has never been brought to production, are the ML24 brake ducts.

What I'm thinking is that maybe we can 3D scan or laser scan an FR-S fog light bezel piece so that we can have the edge shape as a 3D model along with the snap on edges.

Then we can bring it into SolidWorks or an equivalent program and remodel the interior part so that it has a nice concaving duct, similar to the ML24 one.

Afterward, we 3D print a mold for the piece and then cast our trim piece using that mold, and sand it afterward.

I would then skin it in carbon fiber using resin, carbon fiber fabric, and clear coat, and wet sand it.

How difficult would the process of scanning, and then manipulating the model, and then either 3D-printing the piece or 3D-printing a mold for the piece be? I reckon we can do one and then mirror the object for the other side.

86league · 04-27-2021, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LimitedSlip

Thingverse can't seem to find:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4840911

Is the number correct or has the project been removed?

Thanks!

I had just joined thingiverse to upload this. It showed up for me with that link, but it also tells me I need to wait 24 hrs to publish as a new member.

I went back and published it. Let me know if it doesn't work now - sorry for the hassle.

Dadhawk · 04-27-2021, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86league

I had just joined thingiverse to upload this. It showed up for me with that link, but it also tells me I need to wait 24 hrs to publish as a new member.

I went back and published it. Let me know if it doesn't work now - sorry for the hassle.

I can see them.

LimitedSlip · 04-27-2021, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86league

I had just joined thingiverse to upload this. It showed up for me with that link, but it also tells me I need to wait 24 hrs to publish as a new member.

I went back and published it. Let me know if it doesn't work now - sorry for the hassle.

Good to go now. Thanks much!

Jchang · 05-21-2021, 08:13 PM

Has anyone made an .stl file for exhaust covers before? I feel like someone would’ve made one in the past by now.

ybotspawn · 05-24-2021, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jchang

Has anyone made an .stl file for exhaust covers before? I feel like someone would’ve made one in the past by now.

What do you mean by exhaust covers? Most of the people in here are ringing and designing for plastic based printers, which I’m doubting would hold up against anything exhaust related

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

x808drifter · 05-24-2021, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ybotspawn

What do you mean by exhaust covers? Most of the people in here are ringing and designing for plastic based printers, which I’m doubting would hold up against anything exhaust related

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Block off plates for those that go single exit exhaust.

ybotspawn · 05-24-2021, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by x808drifter

Block off plates for those that go single exit exhaust.

Ahhh point taken

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

finch1750 · 06-02-2021, 02:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86league

Got a Deka ETX15L battery to shed some weight vs. the OEM (11.8lbs vs 34lbs) but it's not a drop in replacement.

I ended up 3D printing a tray that holds the Deka and is same width as the stock tray front to back. This "adapter" raises the Deka enough to let you use the stock tie-down parts. Also made a little block to go under the tie down bar to spread out the load on the top of the battery. Seems to work well.

Printed in ABS. I'd previously done something very similar with a Braille 14115 and it held up well. The ETX15L was a lot cheaper than the Braille and works a little better in terms of height IMO.

Would you mind sharing the file?

86league · 06-02-2021, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by finch1750

Would you mind sharing the file?

Updated original post with the thingiverse link.

Dadhawk · 06-15-2021, 09:56 AM

For those of you that are way more of a 3D print expert than I am, can you use a 3D pen (which is basically just a hot glue gun sized for filament) to "weld" 3d printed pieces together?

It seems like it should work either on its own or as a "spot welder" to hold pieces together while glue dries but I was curious to see if anyone has experience doing it.

RayRay88 · 06-15-2021, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dadhawk

For those of you that are way more of a 3D print expert than I am, can you use a 3D pen (which is basically just a hot glue gun sized for filament) to "weld" 3d printed pieces together?

It seems like it should work either on its own or as a "spot welder" to hold pieces together while glue dries but I was curious to see if anyone has experience doing it.

It won't hold very well. If you're serious about "spot welding" either use epoxy or my favourite, friction welding. Put some filament in a dremel and put it on high speed. The friction and resulting heat will melt the filament on both pieces and essentially weld the pieces together.

I would practice on dud prints before you attempt something precious.

Dadhawk · 06-15-2021, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RayRay88

It won't hold very well. If you're serious about "spot welding" either use epoxy or my favourite, friction welding. Put some filament in a dremel and put it on high speed. The friction and resulting heat will melt the filament on both pieces and essentially weld the pieces together.

I would practice on dud prints before you attempt something precious.

I've seen the friction welding done, but it seems risky if its for relatively small pieces.

06-15-2021, 09:56 AM	#138
Dadhawk 1st86 Driver! Join Date: Feb 2012 Drives: '13 FR-S (#3 of 1st 86) Location: Powder Springs, GA Posts: 19,811 Thanks: 38,817 Thanked 24,936 Times in 11,375 Posts Mentioned: 182 Post(s) Tagged: 4 Thread(s)	For those of you that are way more of a 3D print expert than I am, can you use a 3D pen (which is basically just a hot glue gun sized for filament) to "weld" 3d printed pieces together? It seems like it should work either on its own or as a "spot welder" to hold pieces together while glue dries but I was curious to see if anyone has experience doing it. __________________ Visit my Owner's Journal where I wax philosophic on all things FR-S Post your 86 or see others in front of a(n) (in)famous landmark. What fits in your 86? Show us the "Junk In Your Trunk".

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04-27-2021, 01:40 PM	#128
nwgabrz Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Drives: BRZ Limited Location: GA Posts: 128 Thanks: 9 Thanked 36 Times in 31 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I've always been interested in Innovated Dynamics's FR-S brake ducts and but since I own a BRZ, I've never purchased them. But with contemplation of swapping to a FR-S front bumper, I've thought about those ducts again. Unfortunately Innovated Dynamics has now shut down. Of course, there are other brake duct kits on the market such as the one made by APR, and others, but in terms of design, I liked the Innovated Dynamics version. Another one that I like, but has never been brought to production, are the ML24 brake ducts. What I'm thinking is that maybe we can 3D scan or laser scan an FR-S fog light bezel piece so that we can have the edge shape as a 3D model along with the snap on edges. Then we can bring it into SolidWorks or an equivalent program and remodel the interior part so that it has a nice concaving duct, similar to the ML24 one. Afterward, we 3D print a mold for the piece and then cast our trim piece using that mold, and sand it afterward. I would then skin it in carbon fiber using resin, carbon fiber fabric, and clear coat, and wet sand it. How difficult would the process of scanning, and then manipulating the model, and then either 3D-printing the piece or 3D-printing a mold for the piece be? I reckon we can do one and then mirror the object for the other side.

05-21-2021, 08:13 PM	#132
Jchang Member Join Date: Apr 2020 Drives: 2018 Subaru BRZ Ts Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 26 Thanks: 10 Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Has anyone made an .stl file for exhaust covers before? I feel like someone would’ve made one in the past by now.

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