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05-18-2019, 06:03 PM | #29 | |
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this is why the internet is a dangerous place for information. That is false. the mis-matched vins on the fenders only drew a red flag to begin with. You can strip all your vins from fenders hoood and bumper and be ok. The motor was also the original motor from the car, so that as well wasn't grounds for denial. The only grounds for denial was not wanting to get in the middle of a half-finished wrecked car without knowing the extent of how much someone has tinkered with it. Period. |
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05-18-2019, 06:08 PM | #30 |
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Too bad this car is automatic and for my fiance as a daily driver
If it wasn't for that I would have done a bit of a more thorough rebuild it wasn't for that and slap on a turbo or supercharger and call it a day with that said, I am considering maybe upgrading springs but more than likely will just go with a factory set |
05-18-2019, 07:55 PM | #31 | |
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2013 Scion FRS Denied J02 Recall
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I have a 2JZ also and I’ve rebuilt it before and it’s not even close to the level of difficulty of the FA20. Difficulty isn’t a good word. It’s not difficult it’s just a pain in the ass. Plan on spending about 2 - 4 hours pulling it. That is the easy part. Tearing it down is also easy. But plan on spending an entire weekend cleaning up all the packing material. This isn’t a 2JZ where all they glue is the pan. It’s freaking everywhere. Long story short, don’t expect it to go as fast as your 2JZ. As for replacing stem seals. I would at least do the seal on the bent valve (assuming it’s bent). I wouldn’t bother on the others. |
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05-20-2019, 02:12 PM | #32 | |
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Be sure to grab all the documentation supplements from the failure thread in regards to precautions with the FIPG, that seems to be the only touchy part of this job. |
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05-20-2019, 02:33 PM | #33 |
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Thanks fellas.
Already got the documentation handy and looked through a lot of it. Doesn't see too terrible, just need to print it out in order and take a quick look to make sure I know what at least general sequence of steps are and where I can find what I need. im going to also grab an excerpt of the head removal portion as I know i'll be getting one head off for sure. The only reason I am mentioning a rocker is because the valve does not move at all. I know a bent valve cant close/seal, but even in that case, if there was contact from the cam, it should be pushing the valve open as it has no option to go anywhere and since the cam doesn't directly drive these I figured the rocker must have at least popped off or something... which makes me really curious as to what the inside of valve cover looks like right now.. I guess time will tell I'm pretty excited to get this going though... already put together a list of the parts I believe I'll be replacing and priced them out online, so far up to 450ish bucks, which isn't terrible. I was expecting to have to spend 500-900 at the dealer for the additional work |
05-20-2019, 02:37 PM | #34 | |
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If she does, just wait till you're married and she "throws together" some supper for you - humfrz |
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05-20-2019, 02:45 PM | #35 | |
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I didn't mean that I won't do a proper rebuild of the motor I just meant that if I was building this for myself and it wasn't an automatic daily it would definitely get more upgrades. I think thats the word I should have used |
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05-20-2019, 02:58 PM | #36 | |
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Yep, after you're married, hopefully, you will quickly learn to phrase things more "carefully" when referencing your wife - humfrz |
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05-20-2019, 04:20 PM | #37 |
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^^ I've already found that out a few times and I'm not even married yet lol.
Just spoke with the customer care center again regarding the denial and the call literally ended with me laughing and just saying "ok, thank you" Here is what I was told: "the field technician determined that that repair to the car was not adequate so thats why we can't perform the recall work" < what repairs? lol. They keep going back to the fact that it had an accident, but how does that affect the fact that the valve springs INSIDE the engine are under recall? But, whatever, I understand the skeptical tech seeing the car in the condition it is in. The reason for my hysterical laughter: I ask "in the case I don't decide to fix all this myself, if I get the car fully repair titled/registered, etc. will I still be eligible for the recall work is it is black-listed from now on?" "well sir, if the vehicle shows up in out system as non-salvaged than ofcourse you would still be eligible for the recall" < insert my hysterical laughter here. It is clear the dealer is just covering his ass and looking for any reason to fall on not doing the recall work, and to a degree, I would understand it, however, I would very much appreciate a straight forward answer and not the circle-jerk, beat around the bush approach they have taken with me thus far. At the end of the day its probably better that they did not do the work because I have mentioned earlier..with my luck, the engine would also fail like the number of previous ones and they CERTAINLY would then say "go eat a big one, the car is salvaged and we don't warranty any of the recall work because of it" Here is a list of reasons I have compiled over the last 6 calls: 1. "its got mismatched vins on the fenders and bumper man.." 2. "this motor has been pulled out and probably swapped out.. there are a bunch of unplugged connectors (< to the headlights lol)" 3. We don't have way to verify if the motor is original or not..we'll have to wait for a field rep to come take a look" 4. "field rep took a look and said that someone has worked on the car so we can't touch it for a repair, but I'd be glad to diagnose the problem for you for 3-5 hours of labor" 5. "the car definitely had an accident and has a salvage title so we probably can't touch it" <...uh...duh? 6. "the repairs weren't done adequate" <cosmetic and all that needed to be said was: "Sorry, we can't perform the recall due to the fact that we would be taking a very big liability as the current condition of the car suggests that there has been a lot of work started and not yet finished" or something to this extent. I would have thanked them, ordered the parts and gone on my happy way. Buttttt all gravy. I'm hoping maybe I can talk them into getting me some parts at cost, or at least matching what I was able to find online but even now, im looking at like 440-500 dollars depending on what/where I get. |
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05-20-2019, 05:51 PM | #38 |
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There's a shim between the rocker and valve, if it dropped when the spring failed, that valve will lose a lot of lift, so if it's stuck partly open, with a dropped shim, it may not move much.
With that said, when you open up the valve cover, be careful not to drop it. |
05-20-2019, 08:10 PM | #39 |
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Umm if you dropped a valve with the engine turning over you at least bent a valve and will be pulling the head(s). Just doing a simple leak down test will tell you how bad your are off.
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05-20-2019, 08:13 PM | #40 |
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The valve is visibly open so yea I'm fully counting on taking off the head and replacing at least 1
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05-21-2019, 02:52 AM | #41 |
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Well, aemravan, I reckon you still have a "project" to work on. Maybe you can convince the dealership to give you the valve springs and a gasket set and some glue - since they won't have to do the recall work -
Here is a little story that may make you feel better. Reminds me of the time (sorry folks, I'll make it short) back on the farm, when I was in HS, I was tired of slaving behind a hay baler for $1.00 per hour. So, I saved up my dollars and bought (for $150.00) a very used hay baler at a farm sale. Yep, I was going to get rich, doing custom hay and straw baling. Welp, come to find out, that there wasn't much that wasn't worn out - including the tying fingers (mechanisms), about that POS hay baler. I couldn't find any parts in any machinery junk yards and I couldn't afford to buy new ones. So, I tore the baler apart and sold it for scrap iron for $45.00, then went back to sweating behind someone else's baler for $1.00/hr. THE END humfrz |
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05-21-2019, 08:35 AM | #42 |
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hmfrz, thats a heck of a story
I thought about asking them about the materials for the rebuild, at least partially, however, knowing that it would come out of their pocket I think it would be the customer care center that would need to "ok" it for them to give. What I am planning on asking for is to see if they'll at least sell me the parts I need at cost (if that comes out cheaper than what I currently have looked up with various dealers online) and see if they can match. Id prefer to get the parts locally picked up than having to wait for shipping from 3 different locations (plus...it should save me on shipping ) |
The Following User Says Thank You to aemravan For This Useful Post: | humfrz (05-21-2019) |
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