Recommended Camber for tracking - Page 4 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

garfull · 07-24-2013, 09:08 PM

OK so if I'm at -1.6 degree with 1/16 toe in per side for the street. Going to -2.6 at the track will net almost zero toe. Have to try this and see if I can get a good measurement off the rim without putting it on the alignment rack. Thx

Quote:

Originally Posted by Element Tuning

I get more toe out with more negative camber on the FRS.

Element Tuning · 07-24-2013, 11:53 PM

I'm starting to second guess my statement based on my pic here:

Somebody better double check the toe change with camber. I think I'm mixed up with my STi which has tie rods in front of axle and negative camber equals more toe out. The FRS has tie rods in rear so negative camber equals more toe in. My own picture supports that.

celica73 · 07-25-2013, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Element Tuning

I'm starting to second guess my statement based on my pic here:

Somebody better double check the toe change with camber. I think I'm mixed up with my STi which has tie rods in front of axle and negative camber equals more toe out. The FRS has tie rods in rear so negative camber equals more toe in. My own picture supports that.

Unless things change dramatically with lower with ride height, we toe out with LESS camber. As you state above, it's due to the tie rod location (behind the strut vs in front of the strut).

Element Tuning · 07-25-2013, 09:23 AM

Yeah and look at my strut top, there is a huge change in toe with camber (1/8th"). Car needs a bump steer kit!

Hags86 · 07-25-2013, 05:43 PM

Thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread - I've found it very useful. Give me some time (6 weeks or so) and I'll report back with some accurate numbers about camber/caster changes.

autobrz · 07-27-2013, 09:49 AM

Thanks @FastLane1000 for being thorough and pointing out to me that the part number I provided for the 14mm lower bolt was wrong. I've corrected the original post and will include the correct part # here:
14mm bolt: 81260 SPC EZ Cam XR Camber Bolt Kit

FastLane1000 · 07-27-2013, 09:54 AM

no problem bro! I appreciate your help and getting me the right part number and more negative camber on the cheap!

FReSh · 08-01-2013, 01:05 AM

So we know more negative camber = more toe IN (approximately -1.0 degree for 1/16" toe in on each wheel). Do we know how many turns on the stock tie rod it takes to toe one of the wheels in or out 1/16" ????

forwallblakmail · 09-25-2014, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FReSh

So we know more negative camber = more toe IN (approximately -1.0 degree for 1/16" toe in on each wheel). Do we know how many turns on the stock tie rod it takes to toe one of the wheels in or out 1/16" ????

Bump. This. Need to know nao

Danny318 · 04-05-2020, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FReSh

So we know more negative camber = more toe IN (approximately -1.0 degree for 1/16" toe in on each wheel). Do we know how many turns on the stock tie rod it takes to toe one of the wheels in or out 1/16" ????

Does anyone in 2020 know ?

ROADRACER · 04-06-2020, 08:38 AM

Im not sure how many turns it takes, but if you sight down the outside edges of the front tires and see how they line up in relation to the rear tires, you can re adjust them after a camber change quite accurately.

racingfool · 04-13-2020, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ultra

I'm running a WAY milder alignment setup than everyone else has posted so far
yet I've had absolutely ZERO issues with my tires rolling over or scrubbing out on the track.

Perfect treadwear after three full sessions - right up to the edges of the tread but nothing on the shoulders. Tires look barely used.

Maybe you're just slow. =)

If you're setting lap records... I'm impressed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROADRACER

if you sight down the outside edges of the front tires and see how they line up in relation to the rear tires,

Yep, I can eyeball a fairly accurate alignment.

There's always the old string alignment.

07-25-2013, 05:43 PM	#47
Hags86 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Drives: Toyota GTS 86 Location: Melbourne Australia Posts: 243 Thanks: 21 Thanked 118 Times in 65 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread - I've found it very useful. Give me some time (6 weeks or so) and I'll report back with some accurate numbers about camber/caster changes. __________________ 2013 Toyota 86: 275rwkW Coyoda Water-to-air Intercooled Turbo with GTX2863. CP Carillo Rods and Pistons. Motec M150 ECU. Motec C125 Dash. Holinger SG 6 Speed Sequential Gearbox. OS Giken LSD. MCA Reds Coilover. AP Racing Essex Sprint Front Brakes. PWR Radiator and Intercooler heat exchanger.

07-27-2013, 09:54 AM	#49
FastLane1000 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Drives: White FR-S, 6M Location: East Tennessee Posts: 272 Thanks: 70 Thanked 92 Times in 53 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	no problem bro! I appreciate your help and getting me the right part number and more negative camber on the cheap! __________________ http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30038

08-01-2013, 01:05 AM	#50
FReSh Dirt Trackin' Join Date: Oct 2012 Drives: '13 Raven FR-S MT Location: Rockville, MD Posts: 294 Thanks: 67 Thanked 114 Times in 75 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	So we know more negative camber = more toe IN (approximately -1.0 degree for 1/16" toe in on each wheel). Do we know how many turns on the stock tie rod it takes to toe one of the wheels in or out 1/16" ???? __________________ My Car Journal

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07-24-2013, 11:53 PM	#44
Element Tuning Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Drives: Hydra EMS Powered FRS Raven Black Location: Maryland Posts: 839 Thanks: 54 Thanked 1,021 Times in 365 Posts Mentioned: 61 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	I'm starting to second guess my statement based on my pic here: Somebody better double check the toe change with camber. I think I'm mixed up with my STi which has tie rods in front of axle and negative camber equals more toe out. The FRS has tie rods in rear so negative camber equals more toe in. My own picture supports that.

07-25-2013, 09:23 AM	#46
Element Tuning Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Drives: Hydra EMS Powered FRS Raven Black Location: Maryland Posts: 839 Thanks: 54 Thanked 1,021 Times in 365 Posts Mentioned: 61 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	Yeah and look at my strut top, there is a huge change in toe with camber (1/8th"). Car needs a bump steer kit!

07-27-2013, 09:49 AM	#48
autobrz Senior Member Join Date: May 2013 Drives: Mazda 3 Location: round rock, tx Posts: 413 Thanks: 487 Thanked 108 Times in 74 Posts Mentioned: 4 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Thanks @FastLane1000 for being thorough and pointing out to me that the part number I provided for the 14mm lower bolt was wrong. I've corrected the original post and will include the correct part # here: 14mm bolt: 81260 SPC EZ Cam XR Camber Bolt Kit

04-06-2020, 08:38 AM	#53
ROADRACER Senior Member Join Date: May 2015 Drives: unlimited cheap build N/A track car Location: TN Posts: 101 Thanks: 12 Thanked 55 Times in 32 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Im not sure how many turns it takes, but if you sight down the outside edges of the front tires and see how they line up in relation to the rear tires, you can re adjust them after a camber change quite accurately.

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