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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 11-28-2018, 06:02 PM   #4803
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Anyone wanna buy this stuff? I know someone can benefit... Brand new C30 high boost pulley and brand new hard intake pipe/couplers (replaces V1 full silicone pipe). (Ignore the 4 bar MAP sensor - this is already sold)


How much bro ?


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Old 11-29-2018, 03:48 AM   #4804
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How much bro ?


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I'm asking $130 Jackson Racing High Boost Pulley (brand new) and $75 Jackson Racing V2 hard pipe (also brand new). I have a bunch of other stuff for sale as well, so if you would be interested in anything else I would be more flexible.
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Old 12-01-2018, 04:58 PM   #4805
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I did it.



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Old 12-01-2018, 06:41 PM   #4806
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Congrats!

Make sure installed properly, don't forget clamping the hoses connected to the solenoid under the intake manifold (see the sticky), and if you don't have JR tune, get a reliable tune.
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Old 12-01-2018, 07:08 PM   #4807
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Congrats!

Make sure installed properly, don't forget clamping the hoses connected to the solenoid under the intake manifold (see the sticky), and if you don't have JR tune, get a reliable tune.
Thanks!

Tuning with Delicious with an A350.
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Old 12-01-2018, 08:03 PM   #4808
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Congrats!

Make sure installed properly, don't forget clamping the hoses connected to the solenoid under the intake manifold (see the sticky), and if you don't have JR tune, get a reliable tune.
Does clanping those hoses apply to the 17-18s with the new red intake manifold?
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Old 12-01-2018, 08:37 PM   #4809
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Does clanping those hoses apply to the 17-18s with the new red intake manifold?
The solenoid should be in the same place. I am not sure if the hoses are already clamped on 2017+ models but you can easily check by looking under the manifold on the driver side. One hose goes from solenoid to a connector right behind the throttle body. The other hose connects to a metal pipe on the driver side. After driving several months, those hoses were completely loose for me.
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Old 12-04-2018, 03:12 PM   #4810
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Are there any common install mistakes? The manual is super thorough, but I'm just curious if there's any tribal knowledge floating around.
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Old 12-04-2018, 04:31 PM   #4811
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Are there any common install mistakes? The manual is super thorough, but I'm just curious if there's any tribal knowledge floating around.
Make sure you have double checked the air and oil leaks before installing the bumper. The clamps must be on the far side of the bumps from the pipe ends so that they don't pop out.

There is a metal air pipe on driver side, going up from the intercooler, that touches the metal frame. Make sure you have installed the rubber bumper layer on the pipe so that it doesn't do metal-to-metal contact. Use zip ties.

Make sure intercooler and air cooler are installed and bolts tightened properly.

Take pictures as you remove parts. I guarantee you won't remember them when assembling.

Don't forget removing the hoods from inside the bumper. The intercooler pipes will not let you install the bumper again otherwise. (maybe this was an FRS thing)

Don't tighten the clamps until all pipes are connected together so that you can fit better and they don't stretch the bumper cover.

Be very gentle and patient with removing and reinstalling the bumper cover. It is very easy to flex and break the connectors (or whatever they are called)

Start your engine, prime the compressor, check leaks before reinstalling the bumper cover.

I used gravity method (no pump) to prime the compressor. Start with as much oil as the reservoir takes and add as the level goes lower. You should have a little more traction fluid left in the bottle when it is fully primed. That is a smelly fluid!

Torque wrench is a must. Make sure everything is tightened to spec.

These are all I can remember for now.
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Old 12-22-2018, 12:42 AM   #4812
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I believe I've found a solution for our inaccurate outside temp reading post JRSC install. Mine was reading easily 20+ degrees F after 10-15 minutes of driving when located behind the radiator, oil cooler and intercooler.

First, I ended up relocating my outside temp sensor to the passenger side vertical air guide that I had initially removed for the JRSC install. I simply dremeled the air guide to fit around the new intercooler piping and drilled two holes into the guide so that I could zip tie the temp sensor against the guide. The sensor now sits away from the radiator and oil cooler. When viewing from the front, it sits just below and slightly behind the intercooler exit piping. The temp wiring harness is just long enough to accommodate this. This setup gave me temp readings that were consistently 5 degrees (F) higher than the geolocated temp reading from my iPhone's weather app after 10 minutes of driving. Typically the outside temp reading stabilized after 10 minutes of driving: car was at normal operating temp and enough air had been blowing across the sensor.

Attachment 107435
Attachment 107436
Attachment 107437

The final step was using the Techstream Software and calibrating the ambient temp sensor to -3 degrees C (5.4 degrees F). This gave me outside temp readings that were within 1-3 degrees F of my weather app! Ambient temps in Las Vegas have been hovering between 45-85 degrees and the temp sensor has been pretty accurate within that range. The real test is when we start hitting triple digits in the summer months.

I realize this has no effect on the performance of this kit but just more of a fix if anyone was annoyed with the hugely inaccurate outside temp reading post install. YMMV. Hope this helps!

Attachment 114404Attachment 114405
anyone have an easier fix for this issue?
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Old 12-23-2018, 03:31 PM   #4813
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Question: does the belt start making a whirring/whining noise before failure? A new (unsettling) noise cropped up yesterday. At first I thought it was the rotrex, but upon further examination it seems to either be one of the many pulleys or the belt itself. Any and all advisement is welcomed. Thanks guys.
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Old 12-25-2018, 12:17 PM   #4814
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Interested in this kit. As far as safe power for a stock engine block this seems like the best choice? If i were to run the high boost pulley and E85 flex fuel would this still be safe on the stock engine?
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Old 12-25-2018, 05:39 PM   #4815
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Interested in this kit. As far as safe power for a stock engine block this seems like the best choice? If i were to run the high boost pulley and E85 flex fuel would this still be safe on the stock engine?
I think the real question is how long will the motor last at that power level. That's an "unsafe" power level no matter how you look at it if your focus is engine longevity and reliability. Now I do know a few people have daily driven on this power level (about 370whp) for a year or so and still going. But I know far more have blown an engine very early when running HBP and flex fuel.

So what's safe on this kit? I think you're pretty golden with stock pulley and custom 93 tune (if available). Push the limits with E85 and stock pulley and you're taking a chance. If you add the HBP now you're just asking for it. You can also run the HBP with 93 and stock fuel system for a minimal increase in risk from stock pulley. Is it worth it? That's entirely up to you.

I would like to add that you're right about this being one of the safest kits because of the linear power curve. But rule of thumb is still torque kills these motors no matter what kit you go with.
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Old 12-25-2018, 05:50 PM   #4816
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Question: does the belt start making a whirring/whining noise before failure? A new (unsettling) noise cropped up yesterday. At first I thought it was the rotrex, but upon further examination it seems to either be one of the many pulleys or the belt itself. Any and all advisement is welcomed. Thanks guys.
I just had to replace my belt for chirping on the supercharger pulley. Imo it sounds like you may have a bad pulley. If you're looking at the front of the engine, the pulley to the left of the rotrex unit is really chewed on my car. Might be causing the sound on your kit? How many miles do you have on it?
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