Advice required: Spun out rod bearings.

[Summerwolf]

Originally Posted by ATaraxias

That's the point, friend. Why would you put premium oil in a stock FRS?

Idk, I have put premium oil in my car since day one, as I do with all my "fun" cars, bikes etc.... using good fluids is not an indicator of obvious modifications IMO.

[ATaraxias]

Originally Posted by Summerwolf

Idk, I have put premium oil in my car since day one, as I do with all my "fun" cars, bikes etc.... using good fluids is not an indicator of obvious modifications IMO.

I had no idea your FRS was bone stock.

That's unfortunate, bruh.

[ZZT86]

Originally Posted by nasrath007

pushed a little hard.

Out of curiosity how hard did you push ?

If there's more of that to come then I would highly recommend an oil temp gauge at least & keep temps under 250F, an oem oil cooler will help.

[Summerwolf]

Originally Posted by ATaraxias

I had no idea your FRS was bone stock.

That's unfortunate, bruh.

Not now, but "since day one" indicates it was at some point.

[nasrath007]

Originally Posted by ZZT86

Out of curiosity how hard did you push ?

If there's more of that to come then I would highly recommend an oil temp gauge at least & keep temps under 250F, an oem oil cooler will help.

Shifting around 5.5-6k rpm consistently for about 5 miles of backroads. Funny thing is oil temps never ran hot. Was always at the jormal levels..

[churchx]

Sounds normal track alike driving except maybe without that much sideforces during cornering which could have aggravated oil starvation issues if on sticky tires. Of course flooring/high rpm shifting might be fuel mileage wise be uneconomical to be used frequently during daily driving, but in general, nothing out of order to cause sudden failure. Strongly suspect accumulated problems with previous usage/driving, or VERY bad luck, or manufacturing defect, that by rare chance coincidenced when you above steady driving, but not really THAT hard, pushed.
Whatever the cause .. i guess it's worth to concentrate on thinking how to better proceed with fixing result and minimize spending on process instead of overanalyzing what may have or didn't have caused engine breakdown.

[ZZT86]

Originally Posted by nasrath007

Shifting around 5.5-6k rpm consistently for about 5 miles of backroads. Funny thing is oil temps never ran hot. Was always at the jormal levels..

Rough ambient air temp? As @churchx mentioned suspect oil was fine & that other factors played their part in the spun bearing. I feel your pain.

[ATaraxias]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Because full synthetic is mandated by the factory.

Tell me more of your teachings, Ester-Based Jesus.

[Decep]

Originally Posted by nasrath007

Shifting around 5.5-6k rpm consistently for about 5 miles of backroads. Funny thing is oil temps never ran hot. Was always at the jormal levels..

most of us here have done this without any failures. i would expect any car to handle that as long as it has oil in the crankcase that is changed regularly... dont blame yourself : /

i remember reading reports on here of some engines from the factory having clogged oil passages from excessive or misapplied sealant. if you tear it down i'd be interested in what you or the mechanic find.

[Yoshoobaroo]

Originally Posted by nasrath007

Funny thing is oil temps never ran hot. Was always at the jormal levels..

How were you monitoring oil temps? The car has no stock oil temperature gauge.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ATaraxias

Tell me more of your teachings, Ester-Based Jesus.

Doesn't need to be Ester based, just a full synthetic.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Doesn't need to be Ester based, just a full synthetic.

True ...... just depends upon which base stock group you start with.

For those who don't have a PhD in Chemistry:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil





humfrz

[ermax]

I'm going through the same thing right now. I have no interest in going FI so I plan on doing a short block. I considered a rebuild but I would need a new crank, rod and all new rod bearings. I figured I may as well just get a short block. I also considered a used engine, there are TONS of them out there because kids can't keep the rear wheels in the back on this car. The problem is they range between 2000 and 4000 and who knows the history on any of them. If I am going to spend that much I would rather just get a short block and not have to worry about it. I am doing the work myself so labor isn't part of the decision. If you did a full engine swap it could be done in a day. This engine is a bitch to rebuild with all the freaking FIPG seals.

I have a 2013 which I got with 81K miles. I spun the #3 rod bearing at 87K. I was on my way to work driving like a normal person below 3K, not driving hard at all. Then right before my exit off the interstate it opens up to 3 lanes. I downshifted and did a 4th gear pull to redline to pass a bunch of cars so I could get an opening to the fun off ramp. Just before redline in 4th I heard it go. I lifted and upshifted and sure enough it was a bearing. Luckily I was about a 1/4mi from my office so I limped it there. The car was completely topped off on oil. The oil temps were not high (according to my log). #3 spun about 90deg but the other three didn't look that great either. So either there was a blockage or the previous owner never changed the oil and/or ran it dry a few times. What I find funny is the service manual literally says "this engine consumes oil". It goes on to say 1qt every 2000 is NORMAL!!! What!?!? That isn't normal. The owners manual says to check the oil monthly. Personally it should go on to say exactly what the service manual says. All owners manuals say you should check your oil regularly. But most enine don't consume enough oil to need topping off before a scheduled oil change. If it is normal to consume 1qt every 2000 miles then this damn sure needs to be in the manual. I college girl driving this car is NOT going to check/top off their oil every 1000 miles. So I wouldn't be at all surprised if the previous owner ran it dry on the regular. It the short time I've had this car I've topped it off a few times totalling 3/4qt. I was actually planning to do my first oil change that weekend.

On the tear down I've only found one passage with blockage. It's on a return line though and I'm not sure how much impact that would have. It's about a 40% blockage. I've checked all the passages in the crank, timing cover, ect. The pump looks good. I've found no contamination anywhere. The plugs look really good. DI seals looked good (I was surprised by this because the car had the original flash on it when I got it).

Tonight I'm going to start stripping all the seals off and then start cleaning it up. Then I need to order parts. Hopefully I will have it back on the road soon.

So, what it it about weekly that we have a post with someone saying they spun a bearing on a 2013? Just think if all owners were actually on this forum and all owners actually posted when they had problems. I think this oiling problem is severely downplayed on this forum. I get that people without problems don't post but there are still too many posts about bearing problems on this relatively small forum.

[pgranberg11]

Originally Posted by ermax

I'm going through the same thing right now. I have no interest in going FI so I plan on doing a short block. I considered a rebuild but I would need a new crank, rod and all new rod bearings. I figured I may as well just get a short block. I also considered a used engine, there are TONS of them out there because kids can't keep the rear wheels in the back on this car. The problem is they range between 2000 and 4000 and who knows the history on any of them. If I am going to spend that much I would rather just get a short block and not have to worry about it. I am doing the work myself so labor isn't part of the decision. If you did a full engine swap it could be done in a day. This engine is a bitch to rebuild with all the freaking FIPG seals.

I have a 2013 which I got with 81K miles. I spun the #3 rod bearing at 87K. I was on my way to work driving like a normal person below 3K, not driving hard at all. Then right before my exit off the interstate it opens up to 3 lanes. I downshifted and did a 4th gear pull to redline to pass a bunch of cars so I could get an opening to the fun off ramp. Just before redline in 4th I heard it go. I lifted and upshifted and sure enough it was a bearing. Luckily I was about a 1/4mi from my office so I limped it there. The car was completely topped off on oil. The oil temps were not high (according to my log). #3 spun about 90deg but the other three didn't look that great either. So either there was a blockage or the previous owner never changed the oil and/or ran it dry a few times. What I find funny is the service manual literally says "this engine consumes oil". It goes on to say 1qt every 2000 is NORMAL!!! What!?!? That isn't normal. The owners manual says to check the oil monthly. Personally it should go on to say exactly what the service manual says. All owners manuals say you should check your oil regularly. But most enine don't consume enough oil to need topping off before a scheduled oil change. If it is normal to consume 1qt every 2000 miles then this damn sure needs to be in the manual. I college girl driving this car is NOT going to check/top off their oil every 1000 miles. So I wouldn't be at all surprised if the previous owner ran it dry on the regular. It the short time I've had this car I've topped it off a few times totalling 3/4qt. I was actually planning to do my first oil change that weekend.

On the tear down I've only found one passage with blockage. It's on a return line though and I'm not sure how much impact that would have. It's about a 40% blockage. I've checked all the passages in the crank, timing cover, ect. The pump looks good. I've found no contamination anywhere. The plugs look really good. DI seals looked good (I was surprised by this because the car had the original flash on it when I got it).

Tonight I'm going to start stripping all the seals off and then start cleaning it up. Then I need to order parts. Hopefully I will have it back on the road soon.

So, what it it about weekly that we have a post with someone saying they spun a bearing on a 2013? Just think if all owners were actually on this forum and all owners actually posted when they had problems. I think this oiling problem is severely downplayed on this forum. I get that people without problems don't post but there are still too many posts about bearing problems on this relatively small forum.

kudos to you to building your own short block. I was in the same bought recently. I blew my motor and it was either A go built short block or B buy used motor. I went the used motor route after I tore down the engine and going through all the seals and rubber o rings that scared me away as I didn't want to put the time and money building a short block and then screwing it up since it would have been my first one. Used motor I took the risk dropped it in and so far so good. Good luck!