Check engine light on new car..

[RZNT4R]

Originally Posted by guybo

I got the car back from the muffler shop 2 days ago and I haven't put 50 miles on it yet. I got p0420, P119F and P219A.

420 is catalyst efficiency, so I'm going to assume it's a catless UEL.

That's what's causing your check engine. No cat = automatic 420, and the detection threshold for 219/119 is so sensitive the UEL is setting it off.

[guybo]

I found the problem. The garage that installed the header pinched the rear o2 sensor wiring and the wires crossed. I found it while looking around, but the light had to be just right to see it

They fixed it

[hui202]

Originally Posted by RZNT4R

420 is catalyst efficiency, so I'm going to assume it's a catless UEL.

That's what's causing your check engine. No cat = automatic 420, and the detection threshold for 219/119 is so sensitive the UEL is setting it off.

I have a UEL installed and getting 219/119. Do you know a solution to this?

[RZNT4R]

Never looked into that side of the problem since I'm not modded, I'm just aware that it's a thing that happens. Maybe a UEL tune?

[funpolice]

boys and girls
finally today got the chance to go to the dealership(life is crazy with 2 kids and a dog, on top of that i got a wife)..

so all the dealership did was a ecm software update. they actually have a software update for this specific issue finally. no engine work (yet...). let's see how it goes for the next few months. wish me luck.

[nitro_alltrac]

They flashed mine when they did the valve adjustment a couple of months ago. So far so good. Several thousand miles and a couple of autocrosses & no light.

Hopefully the flash alone will take care if yours.

[funpolice]

that is the weird part, i was thinking the valves clearance needed to be checked too.. not sure why subaru now doing it differently at least for my case. i know it's cheaper to just flash the ecm... i am not sure... let's see. i don't track the car or anything.

[RZNT4R]

According to the TSB, they SHOULD measure the valve lash BEFORE reflashing the ECM.

But I can definitely see them going for the reflash and cashing in their chips if it doesn't come back on again. Consider this: When they "do" the TSB and only reflash the ECM, they're still billing toyota/subaru for the full TSB. If you've got a 17-18 and they punch in the op code on their warranty claim, they're effectively billing Toyota for 12+ hours when they actually spent 25 minutes reflashing the ECM.

I haven't bothered calling the dealer that I initially brought my car to when the first light came on, I seriously don't want to bother with them. I brought the TSB to the dealership I bought the car from, kindly asking them to look into it and hit me up if it applied to Canada (it was the version of the TSB from the NHTSA). It's been like 2 months, not a peep from them.

Getting service, it's hard, man. yeesh.

[RZNT4R]

I finally got a dealer to spend more effort than scratching their balls and look stuff up. I'm bringing the car in at the end of the month (because I don't want to lose it during my vacation).

I literally CANNOT wait to get it back, because at the start of this whole ordeal, when I had to face the fact that I was dealing with people that didn't want to work, I put tamper evident paint seals (DYKEM Cross Check) on a bunch of bolts on the engine

To my surprise, I will NOT have to use my bike (and get huge legs in the process) while they do the work, as they'll be providing a loaner.

[RZNT4R]

They'll have had the car a week tomorrow, I dropped it off last monday at 5 for what the service advisor thought would be "two days" until I said "Well that's very optimistic of you considering you're likely going to have to order parts"

The answer was "Order parts!?"... Not a very encouraging start, but eh... Communication is still iffy. reaching the end of the "two day" deadline I was still without news and I was the one to call back, not to yap about it taking a lot of time but just to know what I was doing with the loaner since loaners are subcontracted to a Discount car rental that has a counter in the corner of the showroom. I thought I'd get at least an update with a vague time frame as the week went on and the initial time estimate was left dirty and beaten, but no, not a peep.

In the meantime I'm driving a 2018 Corolla with a CVT. To my GREAT surprise, it doesn't seem to be much more economical than the 86, certainly not more economical enough to be worth the performance and handling tradeoffs, but still, it drives well and encourages zen driving by virtue of not being capable of not much else.

[RZNT4R]

Week two is behind us, gave them a call this morning. Engine is out, it needs shims and shims are on back order with seemingly no eta, so I went there to put the winter wheels in it, because if it snows before it's done, it'll go nowhere on the Continentals.

Damn the Corolla is boring though.

[RZNT4R]

4 weeks on the day, I picked it up at 5 PM.

Seems to be running well, but has a slight smell of oil-on-exhaust. that takes a while to burn off so no worries yet. I wish the sealant application had been neater, I know I'm neater than that on much less critical seals, but I'm not gonna shit on it unless it dies or starts pissing oil, it's just a shame that the memo hasn't gone around after the recall failures that the timing cover on this thing needs OCD levels of neatness. The Right-Ex OCV solenoid is new... Again, not going to panic just yet, it's far forwards and low on the engine, easy to bump and break the connector on an engine R&R. I've done two drive cycles already with a cool down in between so if it had silicone in the OCV screen and was going to throw a slow response code I think it'd have done so already. I took the long way home and beat on it like I stole it, many WOT runs to 140 km/h, with everything in between being heavy handed, it hasn't spun a bearing yet.

So, on the to-do list stands: Sneak a peek at the exhaust for the oil smell and properly evacuate and pull a looooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo oooooooooooong vacuum on the AC because I know the car was outside for weeks without caps on the ac lines, and the dryer is probably saturated with moisture, a few hours of vacuum should get that out.

Oh, also: the damn thing took 12 shims.

[86prime]

Just got CEL today at 19K miles with P119F and P219A again! Back to the dealership I go. Note that this was already previously "fixed" at 1305 miles. Last time, the car still felt fine; this time, idle doesn't sound right. Bone stock.

[nitro_alltrac]

Originally Posted by 86prime

Just got CEL today at 19K miles with P119F and P219A again! Back to the dealership I go. Note that this was already previously "fixed" at 1305 miles. Last time, the car still felt fine; this time, idle doesn't sound right. Bone stock.

I got the codes a couple of times before I finally took it in and they pulled the engine and did the shims.

Early on, the car still ran fine and no issues. I chalked it up to maybe the gas cap wasn't as tight as it should be, as that is one one of the things listed for one of the two codes. After the third time though, the idle was different and not right. It was a bit rough.

After the dealer did the valve adjustment and replaced one shim and did the ECU flash, it's ran flawlessly. I'm coming up on two years since they did the work.