Auto-Up/Down and Passenger Window Not Working

[Muffinstar16]

So I've been reading and re reading this thread, many many MANY times.
My passenger window is about 1/3 of an inch from being completely down, but refuses to go in either direction I've tried resetting the switches from both driver and passenger side about 11 times each, to no avail. I've started, restarted the car. Disconnected the battery etc. Nothing has worked. I'm about to take it to the dealership but if this isn't covered by warranty I don't want to mess with I anymore. Anyone else have an issue with the reset not working?

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Muffinstar16

So I've been reading and re reading this thread, many many MANY times.
My passenger window is about 1/3 of an inch from being completely down, but refuses to go in either direction I've tried resetting the switches from both driver and passenger side about 11 times each, to no avail. I've started, restarted the car. Disconnected the battery etc. Nothing has worked. I'm about to take it to the dealership but if this isn't covered by warranty I don't want to mess with I anymore. Anyone else have an issue with the reset not working?

No.

But, I'll refer you to our window expert @Ultramaroon .


humfrz

[Ultramaroon]

Does it click or wiggle at all when triggered? Any DIY advice would involve disassembly and electrical work. I don't get the feeling that you're interested in that.

[e30cabrio]

I bought a 2017 86 three weeks ago. The interior light does not turn on when the switch is on door.

I took it back to the dealer and although I also told them about the window up down issue (door open up down does not happen) they blamed the OEM Subaru homelink mirror I installed with the oem harness.

Last night I was sitting in the car and the window jittered up/down and the light came on.

I found numerous threads & videos with the reset and tried them all but the issue is unresolved.

Both windows go up & down automatically, the lights on the switches are not flashing. The light goes on/off when the car is turned off and the door is shut.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[Apoc]

Originally Posted by e30cabrio

I bought a 2017 86 three weeks ago. The interior light does not turn on when the switch is on door.

I took it back to the dealer and although I also told them about the window up down issue (door open up down does not happen) they blamed the OEM Subaru homelink mirror I installed with the oem harness.

Last night I was sitting in the car and the window jittered up/down and the light came on.

I found numerous threads & videos with the reset and tried them all but the issue is unresolved.

Both windows go up & down automatically, the lights on the switches are not flashing. The light goes on/off when the car is turned off and the door is shut.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Sounds like the door jam sensor is failing. My window was randomly going up and down a half inch while the door was closed. I swapped in a new sensor and it stopped.

[e30cabrio]

It was the switches.

I loosened the switch slightly & it started working (both doors)

So I ordered two switches. They came today and look virtually identical but the old ones have a kind of patina which I scraped off and they work. Coulda saved 27 bux.

Guess I have both of them if one or both actually fail now.





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[MFGhost]

I've read a few variations of this thread now, and I don't want to make a new one for my similar issue.

Problem: Passenger side window won't move at all, driver switches are both lit, passenger switch is dark.

Background info: Car got broken into via this passenger side window last summer, and window hasn't worked right since, only discovered this recently as weather has not permitted window opening on passenger side. Took it into the dealer a month or two ago for planned maint, they spotted a blown fuse (25A D FR DOOR) replaced it, and the window jumped, but was still not controllable. Tech stated the switch was shorted in the down position (if that was the case idk why it didn't roll all the way down, or maybe i have misunderstood?). Tech stated they jumped the window motor and rolled the window back up from there. then removed the fuse to keep it from jumping back down (the door open behavior).


Troubleshooting Steps Performed
I figured that'd be something I could do for cheap, so I replaced the switch, and put the fixed fuse in, and... Nothing changed! "WTF???", I ask myself.

I have attempted every variation of the door reset procedures I have found online to no avail.

I've got the door all sorts of ripped apart and my multi-meter out.

Strangely I put the old "shorted" switch back in (good fuse is still in place), and the first time I opened the passenger door, the window jumped down the inch or so it's meant to, but again, did not roll back up when the door closed.

I took the "shorted" switch back out, attempted to replicate with the new replacement switch, and nothing happened.

I put the "shorted" switch back in, opened the passenger door and the window jumped down again, but not back up when closing the door.

I repeated unplugging the "shorted" switch, plugging it back in, and grounding the G18 Front Door Courtesy Light Switch Assembly RH a few more times until the window was all the way down.

When I ground the G18 Front Door Courtesy Light Switch Assembly RH (make the car think the door has just been opened), I'm able to watch on the multimeter plugged into the VCC+WU or VCC+WD on both the F1 Power Window Regulator Motor Assembly RH, and the F6 Power Window Regulator Switch Assembly RH that there is a really strong spike to like 12V. Corollary to this, when using the either my "shorted" switch, or the replacement switch as the and metering the VCC + WU or VCC + WD on either F1 or F6 connectors, the voltage barely reaches 5V.

I'm actually quite the novice at this, so there's a good chance I'm doing something fundamentally wrong here, but my best guess is there's something wrong with the grounding for the F6 Power Window Regulator Switch Assembly. As per the wiring guide that appears to connect to the FD1 wiring harness, then to the D4 Ground Point in the passenger wheelwell area. My only reason to think this, is because the G18 Door Open/Close switch grounds right where it is to the frame of the car, and that's the only thing that I can press to see what I believe are the correct voltages.

G18, F1, F6, FD1, and D4 mentioned above are all denoted as per https://www.ft86club.com/files/BRZwiringi.pdf

Thanks for reading all this, does anyone have any suggestions what I should look into next? (I'm falling for the sunk cost fallacy and don't really want to bring it into the dealer quite yet lol.)

[bcj]

There's a "think of the children" lockout switch for the passenger side window on the drivers side controls.

I accidentally hit that once and was confused for a while.
Not that it applies to your problem for sure.

There's no window controls in the back seats.
If the passenger is acting up, a backhand would work without the extra wiring and buttons.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by bcj

There's a "think of the children" lockout switch for the passenger side window on the drivers side controls.

I accidentally hit that once and was confused for a while.
Not that it applies to your problem for sure.

There's no window controls in the back seats.
If the passenger is acting up, a backhand would work without the extra wiring and buttons.

Fer sure, fer sure. Back in the day, when us four kids would get too rowdy in the back seat, my father would reach back and start swinging, he would stop when he made contact and one would start crying.

Since I was the oldest and biggest, it didn't me long to figure out just to grab up one of my younger siblings and hold them up to catch the swat and cry.