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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 04-21-2016, 10:34 AM   #169
GTHachiRoku
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I will probably run into issues mating the intercooler outlet to the pipe going to the throttle body because of the angle the intercooler sits at. The way I have it was basically the only way I could get it to fit without touching the surrounding parts. If I raise up the left side... the intercooler contacts the A/C condenser end tank. I'll make adjustments as I move forward in my install... I might have a custom front beam brace welded if the Beatrush doesn't work out.

Polished all the intercooler brackets..
Beautiful work! Thanks for posting. I'm at least a year out from going F/I, but this kit has really caught my attention.
I saw a couple cars running this kit while in Japan and the layout/craftsmanship looked superb.
I will definitely be on board if HKS releases the 2015+ flash capability.
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:36 AM   #170
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Beautiful work! Thanks for posting. I'm at least a year out from going F/I, but this kit has really caught my attention.
I saw a couple cars running this kit while in Japan and the layout/craftsmanship looked superb.
I will definitely be on board if HKS releases the 2015+ flash capability.
FYI, we are working on sorting that out now. Hopefully we have a release for it by the end of May, as well as the 2016's.
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Old 04-21-2016, 03:04 PM   #171
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Took the day off from work to sort out the slanted intercooler issue (a few post above this one). It was bothering me so I chose to modify my original plan.

The biggest issue is the bracket welded to the Beatrush beam brace. I measured it up and cut a notch in it for the intercooler outlet to fall into. This allows me to level off the intercooler on the driver side. It still slants in but not up... that bothered me the most.

I will either polish or powder coat the Beatrush bar... I like the gold but I'm not sure if powder coat colors can be color-matched like regular paint.

My first impression about the fitment of my Mishimoto oil cooler is that it will work where I want to put it... I just had to turn the bracket around..

I'll post pics soon...

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Old 04-21-2016, 05:23 PM   #172
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Hopefully all my pics will help at least one of y'all out in some way during your install...

Ok... so this is where I'm at... I like how things are coming out now...

I decided to cut the Beatrush bracket that is welded to the bar in order to fit the intercooler better... Aluminum reinforcement seen in this pic is just temporary... I will make a similar bracket out of the piece I cut out... I will either rivet it in or have a friend weld it for me.



Close-up of cut out and temp reinforcement...



All coolers temp mounted pictured here...



Top view... I have to make a run to Ace Hardware to pick up an M10 bolt, washer, and nut to fill the empty hole on the Mishimoto oil cooler bracket...



Much more clearance all around...



Edit: Update

I made another bracket for the outlet side of my intercooler... because of my recent changes I was unable to use the nice shiny one I had made. I'll finish cutting the bracket tomorrow at work then hit it with the belt sander, 400 grit then 600 grit... I'll finish polishing it at home. I have to maximize my time because there is never enough of it.

I am most likely not going to reinforce the Beatrush beam brace bracket I cut because the Mishimoto oil cooler will serve that purpose once installed.

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Last edited by zeal86; 04-22-2016 at 12:08 AM.
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Old 04-21-2016, 09:38 PM   #173
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Just placed my order. Can't wait!
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Old 04-22-2016, 02:06 AM   #174
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Originally Posted by GTHachiRoku View Post
I would say mid to high 300's depending on other parts/factors.

E85 is great for the extra power and lowered temps. The only thing that has me worried is fuel starvation on track. Many local members have had this issue once going flex fuel.
My personal experience whit E85 on track is good, newer hade any problem whit it, but I try to never go under 2/6 off full tank.
But that's N/A.
Don't know if that gets more sensitive whit larger fuel pump and injectors?
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Old 04-23-2016, 12:30 AM   #175
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This was a 1/4'x1 1/2" heavy angle used in construction. I took a chop saw to it and a belt sander and it is now my new intercooler mounting bracket.



Polished bracket...



This hardware fits around my beam brace and through my mounting bracket.



Temp installed mounting bracket...







Trimmed the Beatrush bracket to the inlet side of the intercooler for a tad more clearance.



I readjusted the A/C condenser brackets back to the way they were (with spacers) because my recent modification of the Beatrush front beam brace allowed me more space.

Also, it looks like I'm getting the Beatrush front beam brace powder coated gloss black...should look killer...

Down to a few provisions in the engine bay and some more polishing... everything will be installed soon. I'm very pumped to get her running again... hopefully I don't miss anything... especially anything critical...

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Last edited by zeal86; 04-23-2016 at 06:15 AM.
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Old 04-27-2016, 12:18 AM   #176
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Okay... so I got the blower in after polishing up the tensioner... I thought everything was good to go until I went to adjust the tensioner. The tensioner doesn't snap back on its own, it is touching the SC bracket, and the belt passes over the pulley off-centered...

I did notice in my pics that the tensioner pulley bolt and washer are off-center... I'll look into that tomorrow.

Any ideas?







EDIT

Solved... I installed the pulley without centering it correctly... Its all good now.

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Last edited by zeal86; 04-27-2016 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 04-28-2016, 09:35 PM   #177
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Well...while inspecting my install I noticed my v-belt was incorrectly placed from the top on my SC pulley but not at the bottom... I fixed that but during my inspection I found that the dip stick boss I thought I cut down to 5mm was off by a couple of millimeters or so and contacting my SC pulley.



So... I'm going to release the tension on the v-belt and the bolts on the supercharger bracket then push it back and see if I can create enough space to file down the boss or use a mini hacksaw... crossing my fingers! If not, off with the bracket...

Anyone else run into this issue? I don't know why the instructions didn't require the boss to be cut/grinded down to like 2mm to be safe side.

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Old 04-29-2016, 09:32 PM   #178
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Problem solved! I masked off the pulley with aluminum tape then took a mini hacksaw blade to the boss. There was plenty of space to saw off the boss without marring up anything around it or the pulley.





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Old 05-02-2016, 11:26 AM   #179
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I've been having some rough starts in the morning on my vehicle. I have the v3 running e85. Temperature this morning was 62 degrees. Also notice that when I start the car first thing in the morning, it will idle a little rough for the first minute or so. I did put a k&n air filter in and recently sprayed the maf sensor with maf sensor cleaner and it ran much better. Now it's doing it again. Wonder if more oil got onto the sensor.
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Old 05-08-2016, 02:06 AM   #180
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Almost done with my install... My HKS air intake duct arrives Monday so I'm still waiting on that ...I'm thinking about turning the key on Tuesday or Wednesday. I want to go back over my install and make sure nothing was missed on Monday.









Two more for good measure...





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Old 05-08-2016, 10:22 PM   #181
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Ok... so I had taken the bypass valve apart a while back... finally got around to polishing it...

I should have taken a picture but I didn't so now I have to put it back together and I'm not sure if my memory is playing tricks on me.

Do any of y'all know if this is the correct way to install the internals to the bypass valve? I put it together this way and it felt right but I need to make sure.

Edit: I've been looking around on the net and it seems that the little spring goes inside the bigger one... Can anyone confirm?



On another note... I have to modify my air box... but for now... this is where I'm at with the install.



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Old 05-09-2016, 04:42 PM   #182
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Just called HKS USA about the internal order of the bypass valve parts... they had no answers for me... I was a bit surprised and disappointed about that...

Anyway, I want to make sure I have it right... I now believe I had it wrong initially and have since changed it to the following orientation:

Bypass Cap, Big Spring, Little Spring, Diaphragm, Bypass Valve Body, Gasket...

(Sorry if my terminology is a little off...)

Does anyone have experience with having HKS branded bypass valves apart or even bypass valves in general? If so, your input would be appreciated. thanks in advance.

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