Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[BR-ZED]

Thanks @AKITA . I think the hose on the passenger side that connects to SC is molded, I think at a 90 degree angle right by the supercharger connection. Are the provided hoses flexible enough to make that turn? Does that entire Edelbrock hose just get discarded?

[AKITA]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

Thanks @AKITA . I think the hose on the passenger side that connects to SC is molded, I think at a 90 degree angle right by the supercharger connection. Are the provided hoses flexible enough to make that turn? Does that entire Edelbrock hose just get discarded?

No... the passenger Radium used 3/8 hose like the one that comes in the Edel kit (driver side uses 1/2 inch which is the same in the Radium kit) .. Like I said it requires some planning and trimming to fit. So from the SC using the Edelbrock hose, cut and use a barbed coupler (you can securewith black plastic zip ties if nothing else) then run to can. I originally said disconnect from SC which I would still do after I measured to do the trimming and fitting the coupler then reconnect after assembly. This would be the return. I would probably do the same for the PCV to can.

[BR-ZED]

Originally Posted by AKITA

No... the passenger Radium used 3/8 hose like the one that comes in the Edel kit (driver side uses 1/2 inch which is the same in the Radium kit) .. Like I said it requires some planning and trimming to fit. So from the SC using the Edelbrock hose, cut and use a barbed coupler (you can securewith black plastic zip ties if nothing else) then run to can. I originally said disconnect from SC which I would still do after I measured to do the trimming and fitting the coupler then reconnect after assembly. This would be the return. I would probably do the same for the PCV to can.

Oh ok. So you are saying reuse both the LH PCV (51-4247) and RH PCV (51-4246) I'm their entirety, just splice both to insert catch can in line with them?

It just seems tough to disconnect the RH side (passenger) because getting in there with all the harnesses/ supercharger in the way will be tough with big hands.

[AKITA]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

Oh ok. So you are saying reuse both the LH PCV (51-4247) and RH PCV (51-4246) I'm their entirety, just splice both to insert catch can in line with them?

It just seems tough to disconnect the RH side (passenger) because getting in there with all the harnesses/ supercharger in the way will be tough with big hands.

I sent a pm.. but yeah if they're too big and you might have to anyway.. remove air intake and maybe throttle body.. if so ugh.. changes my opinion maybe a little when you should do this.. because I did redo all my hoses before putting the air intake on.. but still doable. just a little more PTA like everything else

[brandonblt2]

Alright so I've recently started having really bad idle problems with my car so much so the car is practically stalling at lights. The car can't hold constant rpm's under load either. So if I try to load the engine to say 2500 rpm in neutral the rpms will bounce around from 2000 rpm to 2500 rpm. My engine is pretty old having 160k miles with about 7k of them being boosted. Tune is fine considering I've put 7k miles on it without issue until now. Car is tuned to run on 93 pump gas and I have a full exhaust system including headers.

I'm thinking my engine is starting to lose compression due to the added stress and its age. What do you guys think? I don't think I have any Vacuum leaks but its on my list of things to check come the weekend.

[Mad1723]

Originally Posted by brandonblt2

Alright so I've recently started having really bad idle problems with my car so much so the car is practically stalling at lights. The car can't hold constant rpm's under load either. So if I try to load the engine to say 2500 rpm in neutral the rpms will bounce around from 2000 rpm to 2500 rpm. My engine is pretty old having 160k miles with about 7k of them being boosted. Tune is fine considering I've put 7k miles on it without issue until now. Car is tuned to run on 93 pump gas and I have a full exhaust system including headers.

I'm thinking my engine is starting to lose compression due to the added stress and its age. What do you guys think? I don't think I have any Vacuum leaks but its on my list of things to check come the weekend.

Check the dreaded bypass valve. Pinch the hose on the back of the supercharger. That would be the first suggestion overall.

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[brandonblt2]

Originally Posted by Mad1723

Check the dreaded bypass valve. Pinch the hose on the back of the supercharger. That would be the first suggestion overall.

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I have the latest Edelbrock kit from Edelbrock themselves. Wasn't that fixed when they upgraded the kits? I'll still give it a shot though.

[Mad1723]

Comes with a new bypass? Did you verify?

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[brandonblt2]

Originally Posted by Mad1723

Comes with a new bypass? Did you verify?

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Yup I checked it. It came with the new one. I tested it anyway just squeezing it seemed fine no loss of pressure.

[AKITA]

Originally Posted by brandonblt2

Yup I checked it. It came with the new one. I tested it anyway just squeezing it seemed fine no loss of pressure.

Let's do a check list

Fuel Injectors: after the BO valve verify, this is my first place to look @160k then changing tune and require them to spew more fuel than they've done for 150k miles.. could be drippy dirty injectors. (easy fix)

Spark plugs and Coil Packs: would have changed those before SC install , but if either have significant wear.. could be (PTA)

Air filter: shouldn't be that unless it's leaking somewhere but doubt it if no initial issues which you didn't have for 7k

PCV valve:... sticky?? 160k miles on it?.. that's gonna be a really PTA to change now. I would isolate to test by pulling and plugging at the SC .

EGR valve: the one that gets modded.. pulled off the OEM manifold.. could be but not likely if it's doing right at start up.. plus a faulty one I'd think would trigger a code.

Head Gasket: doubt that's it for jumpy idle (dye test rule that out but hopefully not)

Fuel pumps : could be but the demand on them shouldn't have changed much.

MAF sensor: dirty or not seated well.. both? MAF sensor cleaner!

O2 sensors: yeah check those( but again, I would hope significant failure would cause a code).. after the above

All that good? compression test

somewhere in all the above a problem will be found I would think.. hopefully it's not the compression test

[toast]

Do you have a Dbox?

[brandonblt2]

Originally Posted by AKITA

Let's do a check list

Fuel Injectors: after the BO valve verify, this is my first place to look @160k then changing tune and require them to spew more fuel than they've done for 150k miles.. could be drippy dirty injectors. (easy fix)

Ok how would I go about testing these? I would just visually check for clogs?

Originally Posted by AKITA

Spark plugs and Coil Packs: would have changed those before SC install , but if either have significant wear.. could be (PTA)

Changed the spark plugs before I installed the SC. I didn't change the coil packs since the rubber boots seemed to be in good condition and they're expensive. I'll recheck them to see if any damage has occurred.

Originally Posted by AKITA

Air filter: shouldn't be that unless it's leaking somewhere but doubt it if no initial issues which you didn't have for 7k

Air Filter is clean South Jersey air is pretty good and I don't drive on dirty roads.

Originally Posted by AKITA

PCV valve:... sticky?? 160k miles on it?.. that's gonna be a really PTA to change now. I would isolate to test by pulling and plugging at the SC.

This could be it also. Car runs extremely rough on startup some times then it smooths out and gets better as I drive. I've seen people recommend the WRX PCV because we are boosted. Is this worth an upgrade or is oem fine?

Originally Posted by AKITA

EGR valve: the one that gets modded.. pulled off the OEM manifold.. could be but not likely if it's doing right at start up.. plus a faulty one I'd think would trigger a code.

Head Gasket: doubt that's it for jumpy idle (dye test rule that out but hopefully not)

I haven't noticed any coolant disappearing. But I'll do the engine block leak test since it seems simple enough

Originally Posted by AKITA

Fuel pumps : could be but the demand on them shouldn't have changed much.

I have let my fuel run low before to actually having it trigger a CEL. But that was years ago. I imagine my fuel pump may be struggling a little bit now.

Originally Posted by AKITA

MAF sensor: dirty or not seated well.. both? MAF sensor cleaner!

O2 sensors: yeah check those( but again, I would hope significant failure would cause a code).. after the above

All that good? compression test

somewhere in all the above a problem will be found I would think.. hopefully it's not the compression test

I cleaned the MAF Sensor while installing the SC. I'll still double check it tho. Thanks for the list I'll try to run through most these to narrow down whats going on.

[brandonblt2]

Originally Posted by toast

Do you have a Dbox?

Nope. I was thinking of getting one tho. But with the rough idle and weird power loss problems I don't think it would help my situation.

[toast]

I would not, just wondering if you did because the harness for the Dbox goes to the MAP sensor and people have had issues with it.

Can you get a log?