|
Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
![]() |
#29 |
meow
Join Date: Sep 2014
Drives: a 13 e8h frs
Location: vantucky, wa
Posts: 32,309
Thanks: 52,875
Thanked 37,113 Times in 19,248 Posts
Mentioned: 1114 Post(s)
Tagged: 9 Thread(s)
|
How is it now?
__________________
|
![]() |
![]() |
The Following User Says Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | eman11500 (09-21-2021) |
![]() |
#30 |
meow
Join Date: Sep 2014
Drives: a 13 e8h frs
Location: vantucky, wa
Posts: 32,309
Thanks: 52,875
Thanked 37,113 Times in 19,248 Posts
Mentioned: 1114 Post(s)
Tagged: 9 Thread(s)
|
but OP's clutch is stock. He shouldn't have to throw aftermarket parts at it.
__________________
|
![]() |
![]() |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | eman11500 (09-21-2021), soundman98 (09-20-2021) |
![]() |
#31 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Drives: 2020 Subaru BRZ
Location: Washington NC
Posts: 110
Thanks: 7
Thanked 23 Times in 18 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Its caused by hot spots on the flywheel. You'll ha e to pull it a d get it resurfaced or get a new one
|
![]() |
![]() |
The Following User Says Thank You to Rabrooks For This Useful Post: | eman11500 (09-21-2021) |
![]() |
#32 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Drives: 2013 BRZ Sport-Tech
Location: Toronto
Posts: 355
Thanks: 184
Thanked 179 Times in 121 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Don't do both the perrin and whiteline inserts. It's too much NVH for basically anything but a race setup (at which point you'd probably prefer a solid mount). I still need to get underneath again and remove my whiteline insert (easier to pull it and leave the Perrin, if I were to do it again I'd probably just get the whiteline insert).
|
![]() |
![]() |
The Following User Says Thank You to CrowsFeast For This Useful Post: | eman11500 (09-21-2021) |
![]() |
#33 | |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S
Location: NC
Posts: 19
Thanks: 10
Thanked 7 Times in 5 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
This post has my issue dialed down to a point. I will definitely get started on bushings first when I get the chance. Weirdly enough, it's only happened to me 1 time since I made this post and it was in the exact conditions you mentioned. At least now I don't feel as crazy. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#34 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S
Location: NC
Posts: 19
Thanks: 10
Thanked 7 Times in 5 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to eman11500 For This Useful Post: | soundman98 (09-21-2021), Ultramaroon (09-21-2021) |
![]() |
#35 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S
Location: NC
Posts: 19
Thanks: 10
Thanked 7 Times in 5 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
As of now, thrashing it has somewhat fixed my issue for the time being. I won't lie, I tend to drive more along the lines of a grandpa in this car since it's so slow. Time to get back into the RX-8 mindset I suppose.
|
![]() |
![]() |
The Following User Says Thank You to eman11500 For This Useful Post: | soundman98 (09-21-2021) |
![]() |
#36 | |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S
Location: NC
Posts: 19
Thanks: 10
Thanked 7 Times in 5 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#37 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Drives: 2013 BRZ Sport-Tech
Location: Toronto
Posts: 355
Thanks: 184
Thanked 179 Times in 121 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Separately, if you would like a more rigid drive line to make the power delivery more direct then feel free to do the whiteline or perrin reinforcements. I would not recommend doing both perrin and whiteline as it adds too much NVH (even for people who have a pretty high tolerance for NVH increases). |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#38 | |
meow
Join Date: Sep 2014
Drives: a 13 e8h frs
Location: vantucky, wa
Posts: 32,309
Thanks: 52,875
Thanked 37,113 Times in 19,248 Posts
Mentioned: 1114 Post(s)
Tagged: 9 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Thousands of owners are driving around without any issues on a stock drive train. Did the shudder start immediately after the clutch was replaced? If yes, bad parts or, as @Rabrooks reminds us, good parts assembled over a shit surface on the flywheel. I just assumed the flywheel was replaced as part of the job. ![]() If no, well, let's figure out what broke. Do you remember if you got the clutch hot at any time? Brand new friction disc takes a bit to break in. Maybe shitty flywheel surface didn't immediately rear its ugly head because the disc was still brand new and fuzzy. ![]() Just focus on what changed. Don't get distracted by shiny fun parts.
__________________
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: |
![]() |
#39 | |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S
Location: NC
Posts: 19
Thanks: 10
Thanked 7 Times in 5 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Good point. Shudder did not start immediately, probably a month or two after. As far as heat, I haven't smelled anything at all while driving so I can only assume the clutch never overheated. Maybe the flywheel? (edit: pretty sure the flywheel was replaced as well) Last edited by eman11500; 09-21-2021 at 06:26 PM. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
The Following User Says Thank You to eman11500 For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (09-22-2021) |
![]() |
#40 | |
ProCrastinationConsultant
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: '14 Ranger, '18 Tacoma 4Dr LB
Location: chicago-ish
Posts: 11,330
Thanks: 35,240
Thanked 13,675 Times in 6,782 Posts
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
imo, i think this clearly identifies the problem as a surfacing issue instead of something else in the driveline causing a similar symptom. first step ought to be confirming if the flywheel was replaced or resurfaced. after that, if you're good enough with a clutch that you minimally slip it(which means that it really never got any significant heat into it), the bedding idea that was nearer the beginning might be worth a shot. otherwise, you'll likely be looking at separating the transmission again to do flywheel resurfacing, or replacement.
__________________
"The time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time"
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to soundman98 For This Useful Post: | eman11500 (09-21-2021), Ultramaroon (09-22-2021) |
![]() |
#41 | |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Drives: 2013 Scion FR-S
Location: NC
Posts: 19
Thanks: 10
Thanked 7 Times in 5 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
As far as trying to bed in the clutch, how exactly should I go about doing that? Hard slip the clutch at a higher RPM and then re-engage as soon as it drops and hold it for a while? Or should I just hard slip and give it some oomph a couple times? I apologize for my lack of knowledge, being a (retired) mustang driver I'm used to my problems being solved with either a hammer or more throttle. ![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#42 |
ProCrastinationConsultant
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: '14 Ranger, '18 Tacoma 4Dr LB
Location: chicago-ish
Posts: 11,330
Thanks: 35,240
Thanked 13,675 Times in 6,782 Posts
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
i honestly don't know. the point of bedding brake pads is to heat them and the rotors up to a specific point to cause an even distribution of friction material across the entire rotor surface. a pulsating brake pedal indicates that the friction material is not spread evenly across the surface-- comment methods to correct are to either replace the rotors, or re-do the bedding procedure.
so i googled it... this basically says everything we already know, but doesn't really help: https://www.australianclutch.com.au/...lutch-shudder1 this video basically says to do everything you already did, but warns that slipping, or running the clutch hard without those soft stop and go miles will glaze it. so i'm hesitant to say that the clutch needs to be bedded like brake pads where you would intentionally slip it to build up heat...
__________________
"The time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time"
|
![]() |
![]() |
The Following User Says Thank You to soundman98 For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (09-22-2021) |
|
|
![]() |
Tags |
shuttering, transmission |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Car shuttering when starting it up | FRSNewb | Issues | Warranty | Recalls / TSB | 4 | 11-10-2020 09:43 AM |
QQQQBall's "RE"Build FR-S Thread (PIC HEAVY) | qqqqball | Member's Car Journals | 47 | 08-22-2016 09:30 PM |
SWP BRZ ("Stance" to Autox) Pic Heavy | BRZach | Member's Car Journals | 10 | 02-09-2016 07:35 PM |
Top Gear Crashes Helicopter During Filming of "Top Gear Korea" Episode | SteveH | Other Vehicles & General Automotive Discussions | 7 | 02-13-2013 01:08 AM |
Steering wheel/dash "rattle?" upon heavy acceleration? | brett_g | Issues | Warranty | Recalls / TSB | 2 | 08-04-2012 05:52 AM |