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#365 | |
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Drives: BRZ, WRX
Location: Sydney, Australia
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Quote:
I could have run it inside the full length of the car but its extra weight and it gets hot here in Australia.
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#366 |
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Drives: BRZ, WRX
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I have been a bit slack with the forum updates, sorry about that. Lots has been happening, I'm mostly working on the cooling system.
I started by trying to make my own radiator but that didn't go so well. The fabrication part was fine, I cut the core down to size and made some end tanks but when the time came to weld the end tanks to the core I had a lot of difficulty with the very thin and hard to clean aluminium. ![]() So I took the easy way out and bought a radiator, its actually for a Mk4 Golf but the size was perfect for my needs and its a dual pass with inlets/outlets on one side like I need, although I will weld on some AN fittings. I also ordered in all the bits required to build my header tank, swirl pot and connections for the electric water pump. Plus all the intercooler piping. ![]() Next I got to work on mounting the heat exchangers in the car, I played with this a lot as like everything there are compromises to be made and things fighting to fit in the space available. I ended up settling on a 45 degree angle for the heat exchangers, this should give both inlet and outlet ducting a reasonably smooth airflow with minimal change in angle. Once the position was finalised I started making the end tanks for the intercooler core. I'm running HD clamps on everything too. ![]() That brings me to the work I'm doing right now, I've fabricated a frame that will slightly space the intercooler off the radiator and also form a seal so all the air is forced to pass through both coolers. The frame has a mix of rubber seals and foam tape to prevent any air escaping. The radiator is riding on rubber mounts that are bolted to the intercooler. I will then run some tube out to bolt to the intercooler and support everything in place. ![]()
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#367 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Drives: BRZ, WRX
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 292
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Hey guys, Merry Christmas to you all.
I recently had a visit from a motorsport journalist and he did an article on me and the car. Please take a look here https://www.racefix.com.au/blog/joel...K4GS4XvKKoEkfY
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#368 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2021
Drives: 2015 Subaru BRZ
Location: South East Region
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Such an epic creative build. Awesome work!
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"The vision manifests the reality." NASA TT5 Silver 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited
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#369 |
Member
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Drives: 2013 FR-S Vortech V3
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Awesome build, love it
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#370 |
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I've made the lower mounting brackets for the intercooler and radiator combo. There will be some upper supports eventually too and these will form part of the structure that supports front aero and holds the bumper in place.
![]() You can see here how it fits with the bumper in place. There is a decent amount of space for ducting to bring the air out and over the motor as a hood exit. ![]()
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#371 |
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A bit of an update on some of the smaller jobs I've been doing.
I have replaced all the rod end spacers in the suspension with a much better design that now fits perfectly between the mounting tabs and has a shoulder to take up any space between the rod end and the bolt. Old spacers are the gold ones (top left photo). I have also started work on the intercooler charge pipes. This involved cutting up my expensive turbo to weld a 90 degree elbow onto the compressor cover. I then ran into some clearance issues with the pipe fouling on the lower control arm mount. ![]() The main subframe was removed from the car today so I can trim down this control arm mount. I could have squeezed it in there but I don't want the pipe resting on the top surface of the undertray as an off track excursion could result in damage to the turbo, its better to leave a gap. ![]() With the subframe out I can also shave off the old lower shock mounts that I am no longer going to use and also make a mount for the electric water pump on the subframe. Speaking of the cooling system, lots of progress has been made. Here is the electric water pump with a small adaptor I fabricated that will allow me to attach a -8AN line and pull water through the header tank. ![]() Fabrication of the header tank and swirl pot is now complete. The swirl pot was very challenging to make, especially welding the notched bends to the pot as the metal was super thin from the bending process. ![]() The header tank wasn't too difficult but it always takes me a while to get back into welding when I haven't done it for a while. ![]() I will explain in more detail how this race style cooling system works once I have it all in the car and have run all the lines to everything. This week I will be working on the subframe, mounting it back in the car and then finishing off the charge pipe from the turbo to the intercooler. I have actually sold my Kpower intake manifold and ordered something new which will probably take a few weeks to arrive so the charge pipes on the throttle body side will have to wait until then.
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#372 |
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Some small updates for you guys. I've been working on the oil and fuel tanks and getting them mounted in the car.
The dry sump oil tank is just an off the shelf item I imported from the UK. I did have some plans to make my own but I got this one cheap enough that it wasn't really worth the effort. The fuel cell on the other hand is something I haven't really seen anyone do before but I thought it was a good idea and I think its going to work well. ![]() The starting point for the fuel tank is a 5 gallon portable air tank which should give me a rough capacity of 17 liters. These tanks are incredibly strong as they are rated to hold up to 125psi. My basic idea is to construct an oversized surge tank, tall and round to prevent fuel starvation. Since the car is being used for time attack it only really needs to do an out lap, hot lap and cool down lap in each session, anything more is extra weight. I have estimated I will need up to 5.6litres of E85 per lap at Sydney Motorsport park if the engine is making 800hp for example. I have purchased a billet triple fuel pump hanger from Proflow which will require a little bit of modification to make it work with the air cylinder because the cylinder is taller than most fuel cells. You can see below I have welded the mounting ring to the end of the air cylinder and capped off the original air hose connection. I have also shaved off the stand but I might leave the handle as it is super handy for carrying the tank. ![]() The reason I have gone for the triple hanger version is it leaves me with the required amount of ports in the billet plate to make this system work. I will be running 2 staged Walbro 450LPH pumps (F90000274) and I will be using the port for the third pump to house my rollover vent. I will post more photos once the mounts are made for both tanks in the car, I'm still waiting on some parts to arrive to finish all this but below is a photo of where the tanks will be sitting in the chassis, basically as close to dead center as possible with the oil tank closer to the engine. ![]()
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#373 |
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I got some more work done on the fuel cell today, the remaining issue was the height of the cell and my billet triple pump hanger being too short to reach the bottom.
To fix this I got some aluminium tube of a similar size to the original threaded rod that screws into the billet plate. I then worked out how much longer it needed to be, cut it in half and welded the new tube in the center to make it longer to reach the bottom. ![]() I have only purchased one fuel pump for now as I don't require 800hp straight away, adding the second pump at a later date is easy enough. I plan to get the tank anodised including the pump hanger carrier that I modified to prevent the corrosion you can get with E85. I have also purchased some matching brackets to hold the tanks in place in the chassis. ![]() These brackets are actually designed to hold welding gas cylinders against a wall. I looked at the brackets available for dry sumps but they attract the usual "dry sump tax" which basically means they are way overpriced for what they are. I also looked at just buying some large T-bolt clamps and fabricating some brackets but it was still less expensive to just buy the gas cylinder wall mounts. I did modify them slightly so they use a nylock locking nut instead of a basic wingnut and I welded the slot the bolt goes through so it could not come out from the side. ![]() All I need now is a couple of mounting points in the chassis which will not be very difficult and I will probably do those at the same time as I am replacing the firewall in the car. Speaking of firewalls, I will need to build one around both tanks.
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#374 |
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My new intake manifold finally arrived today, this thing is a work of art!
check out the video below. https://www.instagram.com/reel/CeA0Q...on_share_sheet I'm going to be doing lots of work on the car now that this has arrived like replacing the firewall and finishing off all the intercooler charge pipes on the cold side.
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#375 |
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Test fitting today, this intake manifold is so beautiful.
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#376 |
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WOW so much for "Low Budget"
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#377 |
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Ha Ha yeah, I did try and change the thread title but it didn't let me.
Still, total spend is currently just over $22k USD so nothing crazy.
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#378 |
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Low Budget cause he is doing all the work himself which leave room for quality parts.
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2013 Series 10 FRS #553
RCE T2's, SPC LCAs -4/2.6 camber JDL 4-2-1 EL, FP and OP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85 RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid ARC-8 17x9 SX2 GTs 245s/Koing 17x8 v730's 225's |
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