Shifter bushings - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

rilagin · 05-30-2023, 06:21 PM

Hey guys I have a pretty sloppy shifter and have elected to swap the bushings to see if it helps has anyone installed the circled bushings, do you have any advice on how to do it? Thanks.

dragoontwo · 05-31-2023, 06:29 AM

I would try the rear shifter stay first. #35036 in that drawing. If you're close enough I have a new stock one you can have.

RToyo86 · 05-31-2023, 08:05 AM

There is a good DIY thread Here to install the front carrier bushings.

I did the Cusco fronts and torque solutions rear. Cusco requires both inner and outer front OEM bushing to be removed. The torque solutions from information available suggest just the OEM outter is swapped.

I had a short shifter installed with this combo and ended up removing it going back to OEM shifter. It was TOO tight if that's even possible, and the shifter rattled like crazy.

Thread covers everything pretty well. It's a tight job with a lot of hand snaking, it can be a PITA to realign the front to get the pins back in; patience is key. You will likely end up staring at the underside of your car at one point questioning your life decisions.

Whiteline trans insert also makes the shifter feel more solid. Cheap easy mod. TRD trans mount has similar net effect without the added NVH.

PulsarBeeerz · 05-31-2023, 09:51 AM

I second the front carrier bushings on the transmission, the shift action is perfectly tight with no rattling. Along with a poly rear shifter mount the action was even better, but the NVH was too much for a daily. It it were a track vehicle I would not hesitate to have both as the shift action was super positive and accurate. After having a short shifter for a while I went back to OEM as again the NVH gets old.

The front shifter carrier mounts are a PITA to install but cheap and worth it.

spcmafia · 05-31-2023, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RToyo86

There is a good DIY thread Here to install the front carrier bushings.

I did the Cusco fronts and torque solutions rear. Cusco requires both inner and outer front OEM bushing to be removed. The torque solutions from information available suggest just the OEM outter is swapped.

I had a short shifter installed with this combo and ended up removing it going back to OEM shifter. It was TOO tight if that's even possible, and the shifter rattled like crazy.

Thread covers everything pretty well. It's a tight job with a lot of hand snaking, it can be a PITA to realign the front to get the pins back in; patience is key. You will likely end up staring at the underside of your car at one point questioning your life decisions.

Whiteline trans insert also makes the shifter feel more solid. Cheap easy mod. TRD trans mount has similar net effect without the added NVH.

I just had PTSD looking at those things. It was a major PITA when I was putting the transmission back on after the TOB install. Those pins would not go back in, pretty sure I bent the locking tab on one.

OP, the Perrin rear shifter mount would help a lot. That was one of my first mods on the BRZ, then a Raceseng Weighted Shift Knob solved a lot of problems. Then I installed the Whiteline Transmission Mount, which also, helped a lot, but increased NVH.

RToyo86 · 05-31-2023, 11:35 AM

There is an increase in gear whine with the front bushings carried through the shifter area. With the OEM shifter it's significantly reduced compared to an aftermarket shifter which has a much stiffer bushing where it connects to the transmission.

I only notice it at low speeds 1-3rd, mostly on deceleration or taking off in 1st gear. As soon as you get some speed any noise is drown out by engine/general cabin noise.

Thefalls · 06-01-2023, 12:53 PM

TRD all the engine mounts and use Mtech or Cusco shifter springs and you are sorted.

Everything will tight without the added NVH. It just feels firm and comfortable for a daily drive.

Add the STI longer steering bolts with the stock bushings and you will love the combo of nicely weighted steering with a firm shifter feel.

Don't ask me how i know

wheelhaus · 06-01-2023, 06:13 PM

I tried these recently during a clutch job on my '13, and there was minimal difference vs OEM, I ended up putting OEM back in because these somehow felt a little harsh. These particular bushings are already pretty thin and have a tight fit, so they don't actually allow much movement, but they do help dampen vibration. What you're feeling as "slop" is most likely the whole tail end of the transmission wiggling around.
I would avoid these carrier bushings you've highlighted unless you already know they're trashed or you're really going after every last mm of movement. I had to spin the new bushings over a drill bit wrapped with sandpaper because they were way too tight. I couldn't even get the pins through. I also had to file the leading edges of the pins to help them go back in. FT86Speedfactory (aka FTspeed) has a video on YT for a clutch how-to, and it includes some tips on removing the carrier pins. Getting the bushings out will be tricky because there's very very little room. A dull flathead or body clip pry tool, and silicone grease will be your best friends if you insist on doing these. the linkage boot (35106F*B) is also a massive headache because it's SO tight. Stretching it over the joint and e-clip is maddening.

As an alternative, I'd recommend the following. They're also MUCH easier to install:

1- The rear carrier bushing (any aftermarket poly part that replaces 35036 in the diagram) makes a much more noticeable difference.
2- The rear trans mount poly bushing insert (aka space invader insert) makes a big difference in shifter movement as well, as it helps brace all the movement of the rear of the transmission.

Unfortunately my Exedy Stage 1 clutch and OEM flywheel decided to produce a really annoying gear rattle under decel around 3k, so I had to remove the inserts from the rear trans mount bushing and diff bushings and I miss them already, and some of the shifter slop has also returned.

Shifter springs are a great recommendation. I have the Mtech springs, and they definitely improve gear shift feel with more positive engagement with the detents. installation is really easy, just the angles are super awkward to get the bolts threaded back in.

I also installed a Raceseng weighted shift knob. The extra knob weight, plus the springs, makes for a really nice shifter feel. (Any weighted shift knob will do the same thing).

The other recommendation about steering rack bushings is also a nice improvement.

05-30-2023, 06:21 PM	#1
rilagin Shitbox enjoyer Join Date: Aug 2022 Drives: BRZ (2013) Location: Tennessee Posts: 10 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Shifter bushings Hey guys I have a pretty sloppy shifter and have elected to swap the bushings to see if it helps has anyone installed the circled bushings, do you have any advice on how to do it? Thanks.

05-31-2023, 06:29 AM	#2
dragoontwo Senior Member Join Date: May 2020 Drives: 22 BRZ limited Location: Clarksville TN Posts: 1,183 Thanks: 217 Thanked 990 Times in 521 Posts Mentioned: 7 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I would try the rear shifter stay first. #35036 in that drawing. If you're close enough I have a new stock one you can have. __________________ 22 Service manuals 22 New car information

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05-31-2023, 08:05 AM	#3
RToyo86 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2018 Drives: 17 Asphalt 86 Location: Ottawa Posts: 2,164 Thanks: 1,706 Thanked 2,196 Times in 1,125 Posts Mentioned: 13 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	There is a good DIY thread Here to install the front carrier bushings. I did the Cusco fronts and torque solutions rear. Cusco requires both inner and outer front OEM bushing to be removed. The torque solutions from information available suggest just the OEM outter is swapped. I had a short shifter installed with this combo and ended up removing it going back to OEM shifter. It was TOO tight if that's even possible, and the shifter rattled like crazy. Thread covers everything pretty well. It's a tight job with a lot of hand snaking, it can be a PITA to realign the front to get the pins back in; patience is key. You will likely end up staring at the underside of your car at one point questioning your life decisions. Whiteline trans insert also makes the shifter feel more solid. Cheap easy mod. TRD trans mount has similar net effect without the added NVH.

05-31-2023, 09:51 AM	#4
PulsarBeeerz Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Drives: JRSC BRZ SOLD Location: Ohio Posts: 934 Thanks: 676 Thanked 739 Times in 396 Posts Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	I second the front carrier bushings on the transmission, the shift action is perfectly tight with no rattling. Along with a poly rear shifter mount the action was even better, but the NVH was too much for a daily. It it were a track vehicle I would not hesitate to have both as the shift action was super positive and accurate. After having a short shifter for a while I went back to OEM as again the NVH gets old. The front shifter carrier mounts are a PITA to install but cheap and worth it.

05-31-2023, 11:35 AM	#6
RToyo86 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2018 Drives: 17 Asphalt 86 Location: Ottawa Posts: 2,164 Thanks: 1,706 Thanked 2,196 Times in 1,125 Posts Mentioned: 13 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	There is an increase in gear whine with the front bushings carried through the shifter area. With the OEM shifter it's significantly reduced compared to an aftermarket shifter which has a much stiffer bushing where it connects to the transmission. I only notice it at low speeds 1-3rd, mostly on deceleration or taking off in 1st gear. As soon as you get some speed any noise is drown out by engine/general cabin noise.

06-01-2023, 12:53 PM	#7
Thefalls Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Drives: Corolla GT Location: Sunny place. Posts: 208 Thanks: 371 Thanked 118 Times in 90 Posts Mentioned: 6 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	TRD all the engine mounts and use Mtech or Cusco shifter springs and you are sorted. Everything will tight without the added NVH. It just feels firm and comfortable for a daily drive. Add the STI longer steering bolts with the stock bushings and you will love the combo of nicely weighted steering with a firm shifter feel. Don't ask me how i know

06-01-2023, 06:13 PM	#8
wheelhaus Join Date: Jul 2012 Drives: 2013 BRZ, 2020 KTM Super Duke 1290R Location: Denver Posts: 1,788 Thanks: 714 Thanked 1,141 Times in 624 Posts Mentioned: 49 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	I tried these recently during a clutch job on my '13, and there was minimal difference vs OEM, I ended up putting OEM back in because these somehow felt a little harsh. These particular bushings are already pretty thin and have a tight fit, so they don't actually allow much movement, but they do help dampen vibration. What you're feeling as "slop" is most likely the whole tail end of the transmission wiggling around. I would avoid these carrier bushings you've highlighted unless you already know they're trashed or you're really going after every last mm of movement. I had to spin the new bushings over a drill bit wrapped with sandpaper because they were way too tight. I couldn't even get the pins through. I also had to file the leading edges of the pins to help them go back in. FT86Speedfactory (aka FTspeed) has a video on YT for a clutch how-to, and it includes some tips on removing the carrier pins. Getting the bushings out will be tricky because there's very very little room. A dull flathead or body clip pry tool, and silicone grease will be your best friends if you insist on doing these. the linkage boot (35106F*B) is also a massive headache because it's SO tight. Stretching it over the joint and e-clip is maddening. As an alternative, I'd recommend the following. They're also MUCH easier to install: 1- The rear carrier bushing (any aftermarket poly part that replaces 35036 in the diagram) makes a much more noticeable difference. 2- The rear trans mount poly bushing insert (aka space invader insert) makes a big difference in shifter movement as well, as it helps brace all the movement of the rear of the transmission. Unfortunately my Exedy Stage 1 clutch and OEM flywheel decided to produce a really annoying gear rattle under decel around 3k, so I had to remove the inserts from the rear trans mount bushing and diff bushings and I miss them already, and some of the shifter slop has also returned. Shifter springs are a great recommendation. I have the Mtech springs, and they definitely improve gear shift feel with more positive engagement with the detents. installation is really easy, just the angles are super awkward to get the bolts threaded back in. I also installed a Raceseng weighted shift knob. The extra knob weight, plus the springs, makes for a really nice shifter feel. (Any weighted shift knob will do the same thing). The other recommendation about steering rack bushings is also a nice improvement.

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