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BRZ Second-Gen (2022+) -- General Topics General topics for the second-gen BRZ |
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#15 | ||
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For visual mods, wheels and rear spoiler wing. I don't have a practical reason to have a wing on my car, but I think some versions look great. Choose a tire, then get the best wheel that will fit it. Install ARP extended wheel studs and get open-ended lug nuts. If you plan to "mod", you'll be removing the wheels often. Longer studs provide room to hang the wheel while installing or removing the nuts. The OEM studs are annoyingly short, and they are not robust either. Long open-ended nuts are much easier to handle than short acorn nuts. The clutch engagement point and pedal feel takes some getting used to. I didn't care for the aftermarket pedal spring, but it's worth a try to see if it works for you. That is if you have issues with stalling. While BRZ acceleration lacks the head snapping torque of an electric motor, it is not woefully inadequate. Live with it a while before focusing on engine enhancements. After watching a few videos, let the algorithm lead you onward. |
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#16 | |
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Just my coilovers/RLCA/toe kit and rear sway links, wheels, tires, and cheaper catback. Were $8k, if I had bought an ARK catback exhaust it would have been $9k. A properly done, quality turbo kit is going to be around $10k on it's own. And I only bought 8th gen Fortune Auto 500s, had I gone with MCS from Vorshlag, XIDA from 949Racing or similar, add another $3k. And those prices assume you're doing all the work, paying a shop? Add thousands more. That doesn't include the $2500 I spent on PPF for the bumper/headlights, full ceramic coating and window tint. So you can see real quick you're almost back to the cost of a new RS3. This isn't to discourage you if you want one, it's just to show you need to be realistic about what things cost.
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#17 |
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The 86 really is the type of car you want to drive before you own it. Sit in it, put on a few miles of city / roads / hwy, and you'll know whether it's for you.
However, having such a budget and wanting to heavily mod it is akin to making a square peg fit a round hole. With enough hammering, it'll fit. But there are easier alternatives (*cough* Supra). It's also money out the window, what with mods and resale, etc. |
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#18 | |
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Bought the car (2015 FR-S) with 10k km. Bought a Gruppe-S header at 550$ CAD used. Open flash tablet 500$ CAD used. An ST Suspensions XT coilover set with the camber plate used for 900$ CAD. 720 form wheels (15.5 lbs each) for 600$ CAD used but perfect condition. Of course you can spend a lot of money, but this platform is not costly to buy and to run. It all depends on you! ![]() |
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#19 | |
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My Advans, with center caps were $2800. $1000 for tires. Throw in the ceramic coating on the wheels and you're at $4k for new wheels and tires. Sure you can get deals on used, OK parts. But I'm guessing someone who was driving a $60k+ Audi isn't out buying used a twin and used rep parts. ![]()
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#20 | |
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#21 |
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Considering how many people modded their 86/brz/frs on this forum, I’m surprised to see most post indicating it’s best not to mod it :-) this platform is a canvas for people to make it what they want it to be, unpretentious and very engaging to drive. R&D for FI on the second gen is just beginning, so it’s a bit early, but the good news is that you can enjoy it as it is and gradually tweak and improve it. I’ve had my 2013 brz for 10 years now, built it to my liking and will be hard pressed to chose something else the day it will decide to go… and if you do not plan to track the car, there are lots of potential concerns you just won’t have to worry about for street driving. This car can become many different things to different people, so it really depends on what you’re looking for.. it also doesn’t need much if anything to be fun. If you haven’t test driven it yet, that’d be a worthwhile next step.
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#22 |
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Get a used Cayman and enjoy. Not much need to mod for the street.
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#23 | |
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2023 brz red limited 6mt 10k miles ish
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#24 | |
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most of what's been talked about so far is modding for power, and the known restrictions of the platform, which is what the OP wanted to know. no one said to not do it, just that this isn't a 2jz that can just simply manage 500 hp on the stock motor with only a tune, a few wrenches, and a turbo/manifold.
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#25 | |
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#26 | |
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#27 |
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Personally, most people on this forum have the mod bug/disease. We literally have no choice but to change something for some reason. This is not always rational and it’s fine, as it’s your car and money.
But you can learn something from this 50 year old who is now in the process of undoing multiple mods on my 04 WRX wagon. When I was 30 I thought I was a rally racer, so I modded the wagon as a rally battle wagon. No rallying ever occurred BTW. Well now at 50 I cannot stand the stiff suspension and god awful urethane bushings that could shake loose a filling over railroad tracks. Also I can feel every one of those little black crack filling lines on the highway. Going back to comfort for this car. Lesson learned is you can go to far. Don’t get me wrong the car handled about as good as a wagon econobox with a turbo could, but it can wear on you when you are just driving from a to b. You live and learn, I don’t truly regret it, other than the expense. I am much smarter about my mods now. Also, I do one mod at a time so I can evaluate with the butt dyno. Cosmetic mods or mods to improve a deficiency in a car for autoxor tracking are perfectly fine. Just be smart about them and as the cost rises, think about that opportunity cost. |
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#28 |
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@ Ernest72 , I completely agree with you, but I think this is advice that falls on deaf ears to younger individuals as they haven't had the experiences yet.
As someone who autoXed a lot 20 years ago, I quickly learned what did and didn't matter, most of which was the driver, tires, alignment and about nothing else. The best advice aside from that is to have a purpose to what you are doing so it is at least focused. Thanks for your sage input, @earnest72. I just don't think it will be utilized in this thread. - brian, 05 STI STU ![]() |
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