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03-24-2015, 10:13 PM | #1 |
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Knocking Raspy Sound from engine bay
I was driving on the highway and all I heard was a knocking pop sound and I let go of the gas and it was fine until I started accelerating again it was just getting worse.
Got off the highway and slowed down at traffic red light. Once I slowed down...to O MPH.. The car just shut off...I turned it over again and it chocked to start and then I had to get to the gas station quickly. It shut off on me again as soon it slowed down to 0 MPH. I started her up again and went inside the gas station parked and it shut off again. I got out of the car and smelled smoke. Popped the hood and checked oil it was full. Checked coolant it was full. Checked to see if anything got loose... It looked fine. I waited 25 mins at the gas station to let the car cool down. I turned the car over and still kinda chocking to turn over and when idling it stays on no problem. I can move back and foward no problem but when I accelerate on park model.. that knocking sound is back. My dad thinks it is the alternator or the bearing of the alternator. The car is not showing any kinds of check engine light, no smoke coming out of the engine, no smoke coming out from exhaust. Car is running fine on idle... Does anyone else have this issue? I had my car towed to service department at toyota to check it out in the morning. MY car has 33,000 miles. Completely stock Please help what you think it might be! |
03-24-2015, 10:19 PM | #2 |
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I suspect you'll tell us what it actually is when the dealer gets back to you.
Sounds to me a bit like the DI seal failure people were having on some of the earlier 2013 cars.
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03-24-2015, 10:30 PM | #3 |
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03-24-2015, 10:51 PM | #4 |
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03-24-2015, 10:56 PM | #5 |
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DI stands for direct injection, here's an article explaining the system with video.
There have been a handful of people (low hundreds by my guess) that have had the piece that provides a seal between the injector and engine combustion chamber fail. The primary symptom is hearing combustion escape the engine, it's been described as like a firecracker along with a poor running engine like you describe. If you have not modified the car you should be fine and covered under toyota warranty. Hope they solve it quick, and it may be something else, it's very hard to diagnose over the internet. |
03-25-2015, 06:03 AM | #6 | |
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03-25-2015, 06:08 AM | #7 |
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Yep DI. Runs OK on the PI at start up but soon as you drive and it goes to DI then wham.
Power train warranty is 60K so all is good.
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03-25-2015, 07:57 AM | #8 |
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or you're hearing rod knock.
Let us know what the dealer tells you. And, if you did not get all your service done at the dealer, have all your receipts for service ready to show them. If not, they will try to blame what ever is wrong with your car on you. |
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03-25-2015, 12:14 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
I don't think there's a single automaker selling cars in the US who doesn't offer a minimum 3 year/36,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty along with a 5 year/60,000 mile powertrain warranty. I'm baffled how you bought a new car without knowing that honestly... |
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03-25-2015, 07:26 PM | #10 | |
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After he gets the okay he will let me know how long it will take. Toyota will help me with a Rent a car. |
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03-25-2015, 09:20 PM | #11 |
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keep us updated. Did you get all your service done there?
They seem to be acting nicer than other dealers, from what others have posted. |
03-25-2015, 10:46 PM | #12 | |
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I will keep everyone updated. My car has always being serviced at toyota at where my car is going threw diagnostic as we speak. Here in New york in Westchester county... People are very nice. It's when you go to the "Hood" you get shady people you gotta be careful... |
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03-26-2015, 06:25 PM | #13 |
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having the service done there will definitely help.
Keep us posted |
03-26-2015, 06:51 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
There is 36K/36mo "bumper-to-bumper: warranty, and a 60K/60mo drivetrain warranty. (The engine is part of the drivetrain) |
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