Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[B T]

Quick shoutout for people looking for the Remote MAP sensor adapters, shipment just made it's way to CSG. I won't have any to offer on forum anymore.

[Aztec]

Originally Posted by apatel471

Which oil cooler works the best with this kit? Not looking at the JR DROC. Thanks!


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I know you explicitly said not looking at the JR Dual kit, but.....It's great ;0

Originally Posted by Colin86

Why not look at the JR dual radiator/oil cooler? It works great both on street and track, highly recommend. I have a gen1, so I swapped the oil lines so they didn't kink -but I've heard the gen2's don't have that issue.

2nded! Works great on street and track!
Been running it for the past year with zero issues. (better use of the space combining the two)

[B T]

Originally Posted by apatel471

Which oil cooler works the best with this kit? Not looking at the JR DROC. Thanks!

I went with a Mishimoto, it ran it too cold, so got a smaller Setrab unit and it heatsoaked easily. Finally went back to the Mishimoto unit and got a higher temp thermostat on the oil bypass. Everything has been great since.

[Jerr]

I've been having a heck of a time diagnosing some weird idle characteristics on this kit. As Zach suggested, I cleaned my MAF sensor which would help for a bit, so I ended up deep cleaning the Edelbrock filter and entire airbox assembly. Got a new MAF o-ring and screws while I was at it.

I've now got a really weird issue where the car runs and drives great in most conditions, except at hot idle. When the radiator fans kick on, the idle dips to 500rpm and the car almost stalls, then idle jumps to 1500, and back and forth until the fans turn back off.

No CELs, no other issues that I'm aware of. Anyone have any ideas? Throttle body is new (under 5k miles). The logs don't show anything that looks like vacuum leaking either, trims are good.

[FrickingReallySlow]

Originally Posted by B T

I went with a Mishimoto, it ran it too cold, so got a smaller Setrab unit and it heatsoaked easily. Finally went back to the Mishimoto unit and got a higher temp thermostat on the oil bypass. Everything has been great since.

Was this a 25 row or 19 row you used?

[dpfarr]

Originally Posted by Jerr

I've been having a heck of a time diagnosing some weird idle characteristics on this kit. As Zach suggested, I cleaned my MAF sensor which would help for a bit, so I ended up deep cleaning the Edelbrock filter and entire airbox assembly. Got a new MAF o-ring and screws while I was at it.

I've now got a really weird issue where the car runs and drives great in most conditions, except at hot idle. When the radiator fans kick on, the idle dips to 500rpm and the car almost stalls, then idle jumps to 1500, and back and forth until the fans turn back off.

No CELs, no other issues that I'm aware of. Anyone have any ideas? Throttle body is new (under 5k miles). The logs don't show anything that looks like vacuum leaking either, trims are good.

I had similar issue about idle. Turned out my MAF harness had a loose pin connection. I had an electrical code though.

[B T]

Originally Posted by FrickingReallySlow

Was this a 25 row or 19 row you used?

Pretty sure it's the 19 row

[Jerr]

@dpfarr It turns out Zach thinks it was a tune bug. I've triple-checked every harness and connection around the airbox, replaced nearly everything.

He flashed my tune from his version 6.5x to 7.5, and now everything is a lot more smooth. Still learning in the throttle but I believe he set the fan behavior for much tighter tolerances. It now fluctuates about 200rpm +/- which is totally acceptable. I had to force the AC on to get the fans to kick since my JR-DROC keeps the car pretty cool but so far so good.

If anyone else has this issue only when fans kick on it might be a bug.

[Jerr]

Originally Posted by Aztec

I know you explicitly said not looking at the JR Dual kit, but.....It's great ;0




2nded! Works great on street and track!
Been running it for the past year with zero issues. (better use of the space combining the two)

Thirded. I see oil temps between 180F (Winter) and 205F (Summer) daily driving, and 220F when my foot gets heavy in the canyons. Probably a bit lower than ideal but this thing can easily handle a track heat load.

[B T]

Originally Posted by Jerr

Thirded. I see oil temps between 180F (Winter) and 205F (Summer) daily driving, and 220F when my foot gets heavy in the canyons. Probably a bit lower than ideal but this thing can easily handle a track heat load.

that seems a bit high for normal cruising. I'm at about 172-180 on the interstate in dead summer on the gulf coast after heatsoaking. My track days get me up to about 235-240 in spring, summer and fall.

[ponggo]

can anyone point me to the link to the map relocation kit?

[ABQautoxer]

Just call and ask CSG or email them. I don't see them on the site.

[B T]

Originally Posted by ponggo

can anyone point me to the link to the map relocation kit?

They just got them in for the first time recently. Give them a call.

[Jerr]

Hey friends,

I've been having really strange idle issues specifically on radiator fan kick that I can't seem to diagnose. I tried a new tune which sort of band-aided the problem, but I didn't have this issue before on my tune which leads me to believe it's a mechanical or electrical issue.

The behavior: when the car is hot and idling and the thermostat calls for fans to kick on, the idle dips from the normal ~900 to 450 (almost stalling) and back to 1300, then back down to 450, over and over until the fans turn off. When the fans are off, everything goes back to normal. While this is occuring, I can see STFT jump around from -2 to +20 and AFR going all over the place. Interestingly, if I manually turn on the radiator fans by turning on the AC, the car compensates properly and idle sits at around 1000 stable. This problem is able to be replicated.

Things I have replaced/done:
-Checked for vacuum leaks (tune logs also show none)
-New battery optima yellowtop
-Checked that alternator is working (battery is charging properly)
-New OEM MAF sensor
-New OEM front O2
-New OEM PCV Valve
-Throttle body is still fairly new since ~1 year ago
-Air intake/filter parts completely cleaned
-Fresh flash of stable tune from when car was originally "dialed in"

I noticed in the logs that right as the fans kick on and before the idle actually dips, the MAF reading in g/s jumps up from 2.5 to about the 4.8 range, and the MAP reading goes from .3bar (stable idle) to .46 which is counterintuitive as the RPM is dropping, therefore the boost should be lower...?

Does anyone have any ideas of what might physically be wrong? I figured maybe fans drawing too much amperage but the same issue would also persist when AC was turned on, right?

Thanks all!