|
Issues | Warranty | Recalls / TSB Problems, issues, recalls, TSBs |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
01-13-2021, 11:15 PM | #1 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Drives: 2013 Scion frs
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 20
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
2013 Scion FR-S cranks but no start!!!
Hello everyone purchased a 2013 Scion FR-S AUTOMATIC recently. It had a spun bearing. I disassembled the engine and turned out crank was bad also. Ended up putting new crank bearings etc. Everything oem spec no modifications. The engine cranks but won’t start. I’ve compression checked all cylinders (all right at 150psi) I’ve checked for spark on each coil and spark plug, all checks out. Originally when I first assembled everything I had the direct injector rail off. when reinstalling rail didn’t have all seals on it so injectors leaked(one sign I knew my cylinders were getting fuel) That and all my spark plugs were wet when I pulled them to inspect . Obviously I put all brand new seals and no leak now. I’ve checked the crank positioning sensor and it works. 110% sure I’ve installed the timing chain correctly and have everything lined up correctly. Ive been reading into all types of forums and different situations. I installed trigger plate correctly so can rule that out. The car is throwing no codes except p1604 which is startability malfunction. Obviously throwing that cause car won’t start haha I’m at the point I’m just trying to figure out where else to check. Any advice anyone?? Before anyone asks yes I’ve checked all fuses, I’ve checked battery voltage, had my truck hooked up to to jump it. Starter fluid the whole 9. Just kind of stumped. I wanna take it to a dealer but hell as deep as I’ve looked into the car I’m afraid my diagnostic bill will be insane. I will see if I can post video of the crank onto this post. I’m new to forums so I really don’t know how to work this haha anyways, any advice will be helpful.
|
01-14-2021, 04:05 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Drives: BRZ Yellow, 2019 Ranger, 2011 Evora
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,685
Thanks: 352
Thanked 1,475 Times in 771 Posts
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
|
If it does not even start/pop with starting fluid and you have spark and fuel then you are down to valve timing. Probably 360 off?
|
01-14-2021, 06:52 PM | #3 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Drives: 2013 Scion frs
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 20
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
When I spray with start fluid just backfires. How would I go about checking valve timing? And 360 off?
|
01-14-2021, 06:55 PM | #4 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Drives: 2013 Scion frs
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 20
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
I guess one thing I didn’t mention. When installing the engine I broke a vvt solenoid. I didn’t get it replaced. Would that maybe have something to do with my timing being off?
|
01-14-2021, 08:26 PM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Drives: BRZ Yellow, 2019 Ranger, 2011 Evora
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,685
Thanks: 352
Thanked 1,475 Times in 771 Posts
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
|
I know you say your positive your timing chain was installed correct, however there had to be a mistake in assembly/installation somewhere. VVT is only going to change valve timing a little, it more sounds like you my be sparking on top dead center exhaust stroke. Just a thought.
|
01-14-2021, 11:11 PM | #6 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Drives: 2013 Scion frs
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 20
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
I followed this guide when installing the timing chain. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...87902-5448.pdf
All my colors on timing chain lined up with all timing marks. Is it possible it was still installed incorrectly? I figured it was very straight forward but Maybe something I missed |
01-15-2021, 09:26 AM | #7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: '13 BRZ TLM Spec
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,961
Thanks: 1,612
Thanked 2,323 Times in 1,000 Posts
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Are you absolutely sure you installed the VVT controllers back in the same place they came from? They are not interchangeable and are specific to the side and intake / exhaust orientation.
__________________
2013 BRZ Premium 6MT - Track Car, 2020 GMC Canyon Denali Duramax - Tow Vehicle, 2021 Forester Sport - Wife's Daily, 2016 Crosstrek - Daughter's Ride and always buying random flips...
|
01-15-2021, 11:24 AM | #8 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Drives: 2013 Scion frs
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 20
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
No I broke the sensor tab on my vvt controllers. I bought new ones.... do I have to like reprogram them or!? Broke both on right side of the engine. They got caught on that dang little tab
|
01-15-2021, 11:27 AM | #9 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Drives: BRZ Yellow, 2019 Ranger, 2011 Evora
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,685
Thanks: 352
Thanked 1,475 Times in 771 Posts
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
|
|
01-15-2021, 11:34 AM | #10 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Drives: 2013 Scion frs
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 20
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
I’m definitely seeing it could be valve or timing related issue. I’ve disassembled this engine twice. Inspected heads and all. I’m just curious because I followed the guide in the link above to the absolute T and spun crank never jumped a tooth or anything. Now I’m wondering if the vvt solenoid being broke has anything to with it. I didn’t notice it at first and I attempted to crank motor with broke vvt so I have a feeling maybe that could of thrown something outta place...
|
01-15-2021, 12:16 PM | #11 | |
Master Collaborator
Join Date: Nov 2019
Drives: Was '15 FR-S, 6MT, Now '15 GT86
Location: West Virginia, USA
Posts: 1,395
Thanks: 208
Thanked 985 Times in 597 Posts
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think your oil control solenoids are energized during cranking. I remember reading somewhere that there is either a time or temperature-based delay that must occur before they are allowed to energize. |
|
01-21-2021, 01:10 PM | #12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Drives: 2016 Subaru BRZ Hyperblue
Location: West Hartford, CT
Posts: 8,416
Thanks: 22,575
Thanked 9,371 Times in 4,813 Posts
Mentioned: 58 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
|
There is definitely some kind of relay that gets stuck open and buzzes if you have bad start because low voltage and/or temperature. It was happening to me before I replaced my battery. I replaced mine at about 40k too but it was more like 4 years rather than 2...
OOPS sorry I think I mixed this up with another thread. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk |
01-22-2021, 07:34 PM | #13 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Drives: 2013 Scion frs
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 20
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Man this thing is gonna beat me. I’ve done everything I can think. The timing is not off, the compression reads good numbers, it’s getting fuel, it’s getting spark, I’ve checked cam sensors, crank sensor, no codes, all grounds secure, all fuses good, trigger wheel facing correct way, and battery is good. Is there anything anyone thinks I can check?? If it helps any I can post a video of me cranking it. One thing I notice when it’s cranking is it sounds like it’s misfiring and the injectors on my intake manifold have been leaking slightly now (wasn’t doing this before)
|
01-22-2021, 08:54 PM | #14 | |
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2013
Drives: FT86
Location: Australia
Posts: 7,998
Thanks: 1,035
Thanked 4,987 Times in 2,981 Posts
Mentioned: 598 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
The car need a manifold pressure drop detected to start. look at manifood pressure when ignition on it should bead 14 psi or 1 bar or 100kpa, when cranking this should drop. if itdoesnt car wont start, if map sensor manifold pressure is bad or not stock it wont start. check the di computer on side of engine has all three mount bolts in and tight or won't start or run or run badly. Im assuming your runnog stock tune and engine jas stock injectors and map sensor fitted. Also try unpligging the Mass air flow sensor this is the on on intake near air filter ( not the map sensor on intake manifold) with maf sensor unplugged see if engine starts. unplugging tgis sensor forces the ecu into a very basic limp mode. |
|
|
|
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
HELP! Cranks but won't start P0102 P0113 | Sum10clever | Issues | Warranty | Recalls / TSB | 2 | 09-05-2020 11:46 PM |
Clutch Flywheel & Fuel rail change Engine cranks but won't start after | svnintl | Engine, Exhaust, Transmission | 17 | 08-02-2020 08:27 PM |
Car cranks but wont start | yablonskiy11 | Issues | Warranty | Recalls / TSB | 15 | 01-02-2019 12:18 PM |
Edelbrock Supercharger Install - Will not start, Cranks forever. I'm out of ideas. | WinterWolf | Issues | Warranty | Recalls / TSB | 12 | 05-26-2018 07:12 AM |
Edelbrock Supercharger Install - Will not start, Cranks forever. I'm out of ideas. | WinterWolf | Forced Induction | 2 | 05-16-2018 04:38 PM |