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Old 08-01-2021, 03:39 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by finch1750 View Post
The bottom bolt is the OEM crash bolt, meant to help get cars back in spec that don't normally have adjustment or need a bit more. It is perfectly fine in the top.

I have ran 81305 in the bottom hole for over 130k miles. I have ran the bottom bolt/crash bolt in the upper hole the same amount of time. Half of that time was on OEM struts and the other half was coilovers with slotted upper holes. Never had any slippage with countless mountain runs, daily driving on horrible roads, and about 8 track days.

Like church I don't like the idea of extra wiggle room with an eccentric bolt. I never tried it though so can't give first hand knowledge.
Hi Finch1750, I just found this amazing thread and got some question: If you put lower bolt in upper hole, how did it stay in the place? Is it purely by friction? Would it be better to buy both upper and lower camber bolts?
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Old 08-01-2021, 04:42 PM   #44
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Likely a dumb question, but can these crash bolts still be used once coilovers are fitted? Iím looking to fit ST coils (no camber adjustment), bit want to adjust the front camber slightly.
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Old 08-01-2021, 07:08 PM   #45
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JeffZZZ: that friction of torqued down bolt is strong enough. Just like wheels, they are not held in place much by resting on hub axle in center, even hubcentric ones, they are kept in place by friction of properly torqued lugnuts, which is enough to keep in place even with hits that can damage wheel itself.
Most using crashbolts (normal bolts, but simply smaller then hole) adjust them by simply setting them at maxed out position, eased if car weight rests on wheel, then just torque it. Fine adjustment usually is done by other means, as imho it's rather PITA to undo bolt, skew wheel somewhat, torque back again, measure, then redo .. lobed camberbolts that change camber gradually by turning, or camberplates, imho are easier for fine adjustment.

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Old 08-02-2021, 12:22 AM   #46
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JeffZZZ: that friction of torqued down bolt is strong enough. Just like wheels, they are not held in place much by resting on hub axle in center, even wheelcentric ones, they are kept in place by friction of properly torqued lugnuts, which is enough to keep in place even with hits that can damage wheel itself.
Most using crashbolts (normal bolts, but simply smaller then hole) adjust them by simply setting them at maxed out position, eased if car weight rests on wheel, then just torque it. Fine adjustment usually is done by other means, as imho it's rather PITA to undo bolt, skew wheel somewhat, torque back again, measure, then redo .. lobed camberbolts that change camber gradually by turning, or camberplates, imho are easier for fine adjustment.
Thanks I am gonna buy the 14mm one. Camber plates are too expensive for me
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Old 08-02-2021, 03:09 AM   #47
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Imho biggest drawback of camber plates is not price, but NVH. 2nd drawback slight inconvenience when you adjust together with toe from below of car on car lifted on alingment rig. Probably PITA if camberplates are only camber adjustment way and one needs several times crawl up and down during alingment. Price is high too, but it's one time investment, not deal killer in my eyes.
Then again, adjustment range offered by camberplates usually is higher then offered by other means, some coilovers include own camberplates in set, and it seems easier for quick on-site DIY camber adjustments when at track.
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Old 08-02-2021, 03:25 AM   #48
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Likely a dumb question, but can these crash bolts still be used once coilovers are fitted? Iím looking to fit ST coils (no camber adjustment), bit want to adjust the front camber slightly.
Yes, you can run a crash bolt on coilovers. I ran them on sets with slotted struts without issue. The issues can arise when you try to run an eccentric bolt in a slotted strut hole that come one some coilovers.
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Old 08-02-2021, 03:34 AM   #49
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Thanks heaps mate, appreciate that.
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