WHAT DID YOU DO TO YOUR FRS TODAY?

[RToyo86]

Swapped spark plugs out, was pretty straightforward, just tedious. Dropped a 10mm onto the understray in the process

Also noticed a bit of oil on the threads when I pulled the passenger plugs. I'm guessing valve cover gasket around the spark plugs is slowly leaking
Didn't see oil on the tips making it into the combustion chamber which means I can at least get some other stuff ready if I'm going to pull the engine at some point.

[2020BRZtS]

Originally Posted by SuperTom

Not sure when I have time to meet. But if we're talking about the same Wawa/Post office, I live in the house behind the post office

I think it's a pretty safe bet it's the same one based on your location especially if there's a Toyota dealer across the street.

[KN0W]

Im probably going to be trying this (spark plugs) next week when my new motor mounts come in. Did you just jack the engine up?
I have big hands so Im worried about the plugs close to the firewall being hard to service. Ive seen some people stick rubber tubes on the end of the plug to thread them in is that worthwhile.

[RToyo86]

Originally Posted by KN0W

Im probably going to be trying this (spark plugs) next week when my new motor mounts come in. Did you just jack the engine up?
I have big hands so Im worried about the plugs close to the firewall being hard to service. Ive seen some people stick rubber tubes on the end of the plug to thread them in is that worthwhile.

I didn't end up raising the engine. It would certainly give you easier access buts it's doable without. My hands aren't exactly small but I can see bigger hands being a issue.

I used a 1/2 drive wrachet with a 14mm impact grade socket and a u-joint swivel to give me some extra clearance.
The standard 14mm sockets I had were too short when I stuck them onto the spark plug I couldn't attach anything to it.
Easy way to test is to stick your 14mm onto a plug to see if you can get a wrachet to connect.

I did use a bit of rubber tube I had laying around to get the threads started with the new plugs.

[KN0W]

Spent my night getting into the spark plug and motor mount job. Got my deep 14mm stuck in the head for an hour or so and realized this was a weekend job. Got a hold of a bendy magnet tip thing and removed the socket.
Pretty sure I have a new exhaust leak but at least I shouldn't break down on the way to work in a few hours.
Cant wait to contest with the frame rail and the fuel/brake lines friday...
Good times

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[SuperTom]

Originally Posted by KN0W

Spent my night getting into the spark plug and motor mount job. Got my deep 14mm stuck in the head for an hour or so and realized this was a weekend job. Got a hold of a bendy magnet tip thing and removed the socket.
Pretty sure I have a new exhaust leak but at least I shouldn't break down on the way to work in a few hours.
Cant wait to contest with the frame rail and the fuel/brake lines friday...
Good times

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Im approaching 60k and not looking foward to doing this

[RToyo86]

I think I spent around 3 hours doing both sides. Once I figured out the right tool combo the driver side was done in less than 40 minutes.
Do your self a favor and remove the strut bars while attempting this. On the driver you can move the fuel lines by removing the plastic bit that holds them all together. Take off the direct injector cover.

I found it was easier to use the wrachet to break the plugs loose, take it off then spin them most of the way out with the U-Joint i had. Lastly I'd seperate the U-Joint from the socket by sticking a flathead screwdriver between them, and stick my fingers on the end of the socket and spin the final few threads off. Kind of awkward but I made it work.




If I recall correctly I used;
- 1/2 14mm impact deep socket
- 1/2 drive wrachet
- 1/2 3" Ujoint
- 3/8 drive wrachet
- 3/8 10mm, 12mm
- bendy magnetic thing to grab the plug
- A hose/tube to start threading the new plug

[KN0W]

Ill pay a visit to harbor freight and get a smaller swivel. I dont really want to hand my car over to someone else to work on it. Ill give it another go this week or next

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[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

I think I spent around 3 hours doing both sides. Once I figured out the right tool combo the driver side was done in less than 40 minutes. ....

Is all this really easier than jacking the engine up as recommended?

[KN0W]

Originally Posted by Dadhawk

Is all this really easier than jacking the engine up as recommended?

Yea, if you see the service manual youll see why we dont want to go that far. Honestly if I had easier access to an alignment place i would prefer to undo some of the subframe bolts and drop the engine down enough to do the service.

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[RToyo86]

Originally Posted by Dadhawk

Is all this really easier than jacking the engine up as recommended?

It might save you some time.

I was mostly just lazy and didn't want to put the car up in the air on jack stands then get on the ground, pull the understray and go about sticking a jack underneath to lift it up.

I may consider doing this to replace the passenger side valve cover plug holes that is leaking. I can smell a bit of oil now with the window cracked. Issue wasn't there before, I guess the plug swap somehow loosened things up, or made it worse.

[pope]

Originally Posted by Dadhawk

Is all this really easier than jacking the engine up as recommended?

Not at all. Between the time lost futzing around with squeezing tools and hands into cramped spaces and the struggle and scrapes of squeezing tools and hands into cramped places, spending 10 minutes putting the car on stands and dropping the undertray is a no-brainer.

Take that 10 minutes, add 7 minutes to pull (what is it?) 4 mount bolts (nuts), add a minute (maybe two) per side tilting the engine, and now doing plugs is no more difficult than a dohc i4.

I did the easy side the stupid way piecing tools in, then got smart and tilted the engine to do the second side in half the time with none of the struggle.

Outside of big city apartment dwellers working on the side of the road, tilting the engine is faster and easier.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by KN0W

Yea, if you see the service manual youll see why we dont want to go that far. Honestly if I had easier access to an alignment place i would prefer to undo some of the subframe bolts and drop the engine down enough to do the service.

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You would have to drop the engine and trans way farther down, then you would have to go up, and disconnect far more stuff. I have had an engine out enough times to comfortably say, this is not the way.

[RToyo86]

Installed torque solutions rear shifter bushing and Cusco front shift carrier bushings, and decatted my OEM front pipe. RIP my body. Every hurts, since those bushings are a PITA on your back with jack stands

The short shifter now feels a lot better paired with stiffer shift carrier. I wasn't that happy with it with stock bushings.