Vortech Owner Thread & Setup Questions

[AJPG]

Originally Posted by Gopherboy6956

Interesting. Not sure i'm up for that project though.

Thanks for the info.

I think I understand... wait wait wait you have the car currently with out engine? Right? And the sc shouldn’t be near the engine bay? Right?

So why don’t you search, lest said on eBay for 6 rib pulley of 3” diameter and buy the cheapest one that is in new condition, then buy, also on eBay the one way bearing (you will need some measurements that I could provide) Then take all 3 of them to the machine shop and explain how it should work.

That’s basic what I did, I only put the idea and some elbow grease but the machine shop thing... I do not have any kind of training for that but know someone that I really trust and this is a second car that I like to used daily.

After the modification is done, reinstall as it was and use a proper size belt.



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[Whoodoo]

I bought my BRZ with a Vortech SC kit already installed. The car was bought at auction after being repossessed, so it had no records other than what Carfax showed. Not knowing how well the car was taken care of, I wanted to do as much preventative maintenance as possible and changing the supercharger oil was part of that.

The car has 27k miles on it, so I guess its possible that the supercharger could have the same, but i think it's safe to say the previous owner wasn't really keen on that 7500 Mike oil change interval... I might have a $1200 major rebuilt in my future.

[J1Avs]

Is anyone running the Vortech Kit on a MY 2017 or 2018? If so, any install/clearance issues. It seems it's a bit hit or miss with what kits will work on the 2017/2018s.

[Gopherboy6956]

Anyone here do much Logging with EcuTek? Specifically, has anyone looked at what actual boost levels you're getting? I'm reviewing logs from pre-built motor to now post-built motor, and comparing boost levels. On average, at around 7300RPM i'm seeing about 7.5lbs of boost. Does anyone else have data to compare to?

If you just have a log, I can pull the data for you.

Thanks!

[bfrank1972]

Hi fellow vortech folks, installing mine now and have been having a heck of a time getting the belts on and off.

Using a 14mm ratchet, I start from as far as I can against the crank hub/belt and pull until the ratchet handle hits the bracket holding the dipstick and I still have a lot of trouble getting the belt on. Even with all slack out of the other pulleys. Trying to put the belt over the alternator pulley last. Any tips?

Was thinking of wedging something in between the hub and tensioner pulley so I can wind the ratchet back a few more notches. Or should I try another pulley? The sc plate tends to get in the way.

Any help/wisdom would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

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[Gopherboy6956]

Originally Posted by bfrank1972

Hi fellow vortech folks, installing mine now and have been having a heck of a time getting the belts on and off.

Using a 14mm ratchet, I start from as far as I can against the crank hub/belt and pull until the ratchet handle hits the bracket holding the dipstick and I still have a lot of trouble getting the belt on. Even with all slack out of the other pulleys. Trying to put the belt over the alternator pulley last. Any tips?

Was thinking of wedging something in between the hub and tensioner pulley so I can wind the ratchet back a few more notches. Or should I try another pulley? The sc plate tends to get in the way.

Any help/wisdom would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

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Yep - so that's the trick - you have to get something to hold the pulley while you re-set the racthet and move it further. Then do the same thing in reverse and that's all there is to it.

The easiest pulley to use to slip it on / off would be the smooth edged one just below the Supercharger.

[bfrank1972]

Originally Posted by Gopherboy6956

Yep - so that's the trick - you have to get something to hold the pulley while you re-set the racthet and move it further. Then do the same thing in reverse and that's all there is to it.

The easiest pulley to use to slip it on / off would be the smooth edged one just below the Supercharger.

Thanks so I had the old belt on from before and had to adjust my SC alignment, so I put a wrench on the tensioner and zip tied it to a bolt used for the SC side bracket lol. Before taking the belt off the tensioner was already pulled over by the belt so I could get enough room with a wrench to max it out. Pulled the belt off, left the zip tied wrench in place, and was able to get it done. Though I dunno about these belt sizes - I put on a new Gatorback 4060970 belt and it was ALL I COULD DO to get that dang thing on there. Tried the smooth idler but no go. Actually went back to the alternator, got it hooked enough over the lip so it would grip, and literally grabbed the belt on the opposite side and turned the motor over a few inches. Was able to get it to ride up on the pulley, but dang. Took the wrench off the tensioner and there was very little movement, so seems like the tensioner is near max with just the new belt. AND... that's with a smaller 3.125 pulley. Everything else looks in line and properly routed, so not sure why it's such a tight fit, seems like it should be easier...

[Gopherboy6956]

Originally Posted by bfrank1972

Thanks so I had the old belt on from before and had to adjust my SC alignment, so I put a wrench on the tensioner and zip tied it to a bolt used for the SC side bracket lol. Before taking the belt off the tensioner was already pulled over by the belt so I could get enough room with a wrench to max it out. Pulled the belt off, left the zip tied wrench in place, and was able to get it done. Though I dunno about these belt sizes - I put on a new Gatorback 4060970 belt and it was ALL I COULD DO to get that dang thing on there. Tried the smooth idler but no go. Actually went back to the alternator, got it hooked enough over the lip so it would grip, and literally grabbed the belt on the opposite side and turned the motor over a few inches. Was able to get it to ride up on the pulley, but dang. Took the wrench off the tensioner and there was very little movement, so seems like the tensioner is near max with just the new belt. AND... that's with a smaller 3.125 pulley. Everything else looks in line and properly routed, so not sure why it's such a tight fit, seems like it should be easier...

Hmm not sure why that was so tough. I use the gates belt: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I run the stock pulley.

[bfrank1972]

Originally Posted by Gopherboy6956

Hmm not sure why that was so tough. I use the gates belt: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I run the stock pulley.

Not sure either, I used a Goodyear (now Continental) 4060970. Supposedly the right belt for stock pulley, and I have smaller 3.125. Who knows - from what I can tell the tensioner is pretty deep into its rotation so I dont think I have to worry about belt tension issues as it stretches, but God help me if it breaks on the side of the road

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[Try Again]

Just wanted to share my vortech build, im going to get it dyno’d soon. Hoping for 400whp+
Its been boosted for 55k miles now. My brz has 87k miles currently on stock motor, still holding up fine *knocks on wood*
Oh, its only been about 10k miles since i swap from 3.33 pulley to the 2.87.
Mods:
- Vortech v2 w/2.87 pulley @15psi on e85.
- 1050x ID
- 65c DW fuel pump
- Radium catch can
- Radium fuel rails
- Ptuning flex fuel kit
- Custom intake setup to front of bumper (thanks to pure automotive for the design)
- Max bov upgrade
- 2017+ red intake manifold
- 72mm grams throttle body
- p3 multi vent gauge w/ analog boost reading
- oil pressure gauge
- afr gauge
- 19 row oil cooler
- Csf radiator
- tomei UEL headers
- JDL 3” overpipe/front pipe combo (catless)
- 3” Greddy Ti single exit exhaust
That’s basically it for power mods, other than that full suspension has been done coilovers, control arms, solid rear mounts, braces, etc..the list is long lol.
Currently tuned by mike @xero limit (aka moto-east) I definitely recommend him. I have 2 separate maps with different timings. One for daily “conservative” and other one is “kill mode”

[jstn]

Hi, is anyone else using Torque for a boost gauge able to verify the accuracy of it with this car and SC kit? I recently bought a 2015 that already has the Vortech kit installed and I've used Torque with all of my other cars with few issues, but this seems wonky.

Shows between -12psi and -9psi on idle or deceleration and sits right at zero when the engine is off and the ignition is in accessory which all seems right, but the boost seems to peak at around 2psi by like 5000rpm or so. Never reads any higher than exactly 2psi on Torque's boost gauge. This kit has the 3.48" pulley and the supercharger itself says "H67B" so I was expecting to see somewhere around 9psi max.

I haven't driven a stock FRS in a couple of years but this one really doesn't feel down on power at all. I mean it's on tires comparable to OEM in a wider size and it can easily power oversteer in the middle of second gear which my stock 2013 never could manage to do. Definitely doesn't feel like 2psi, plus I assume if the car was leaking boost by nearly 80% it would be running very very poorly right now which it's not.

[Try Again]

Originally Posted by jstn

Hi, is anyone else using Torque for a boost gauge able to verify the accuracy of it with this car and SC kit? I recently bought a 2015 that already has the Vortech kit installed and I've used Torque with all of my other cars with few issues, but this seems wonky.

Shows between -12psi and -9psi on idle or deceleration and sits right at zero when the engine is off and the ignition is in accessory which all seems right, but the boost seems to peak at around 2psi by like 5000rpm or so. Never reads any higher than exactly 2psi on Torque's boost gauge. This kit has the 3.48" pulley and the supercharger itself says "H67B" so I was expecting to see somewhere around 9psi max.

I haven't driven a stock FRS in a couple of years but this one really doesn't feel down on power at all. I mean it's on tires comparable to OEM in a wider size and it can easily power oversteer in the middle of second gear which my stock 2013 never could manage to do. Definitely doesn't feel like 2psi, plus I assume if the car was leaking boost by nearly 80% it would be running very very poorly right now which it's not.

I had the same problem with my p3 multi gauge. Its connected to the obd2 port and was reading false boost pressure. I ended up buying a kit from them that allowed me to read the boost by analog sensor. So yeah you might have to use an analog boost gauge for the correct reading.

[jstn]

Originally Posted by Try Again

I had the same problem with my p3 multi gauge. Its connected to the obd2 port and was reading false boost pressure. I ended up buying a kit from them that allowed me to read the boost by analog sensor. So yeah you might have to use an analog boost gauge for the correct reading.

Thanks, I wonder if maybe having a tuned ECU messes with it. The other important gauges like oil and coolant temp work fine though so that's good at least.

[bfrank1972]

Originally Posted by jstn

Thanks, I wonder if maybe having a tuned ECU messes with it. The other important gauges like oil and coolant temp work fine though so that's good at least.

Not sure about that, or about torque, but my ecutek logs show manifold pressure fairly accurately. I imagine that's what torque is reporting but not sure? Are you tuned with a MAP sensor, and is that MAP sensor aftermarket?