Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[86TOYO2k17]

I would resolve the issue instead of trying to put a band-aid on it. Your RPM should not be dipping and your fuel trims should not be off.
i idle around 700RPM once car is warmed up with no issues.

[tzbang]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

That may not be the stock idler pulley, I have never heard of Toyota dealer supplying this kit before, perhaps they made a few revisions to try to help solve any belt issues. Especially since they said they had issues before, the normal stock idler is 70mm daim 27mm wide, the dorman i listed before is 76mm diam and 33mm wide. but your measurement in the picture shows it is 27mm wide? as you are starting on the 5mm?

LoL oh man I hadn't noticed the measure had slipped! How embarrassing. You're right it's 27mm.

[tzbang]

Has anyone had difficulty reattaching the fuel line that runs under the manifold to the fuel rails? I can't push in the blue tab for the life of me. Is there some trick to it or is it a force fit? I don't want to break it :-(

UPDATE:Ok so for anyone reading this, the trick really is not to install the injectors/fuel rail onto the manifold first. I removed them and so I could rotate and move it into position easier for the clip to engage. Then rotated the assembly back onto the manifold. I used a clean plastic baggy to put the fuel rail + inj into whilst connecting the fuel pass through line so I didn't get any dirt into the injector.

[kev0]

Anyone have a spare bypass vacuum actuator sitting around for sale before I purchase one from JBP?

[kev0]

Also, as you guys may know that I have been plagued with problems ever since installing this SC.

What I don't understand is why my fuel trims normalize after engine is warmed up (about 6 minutes of driving). I monitor my fuel trims live with the ecutek bluetooth program on my head unit and its maxed out when engine is cold, but my RPM's will drop down for a second and then go back up, and that's when my fuel trims normalize. After the 'rpm drop', all is good. It's only the cold starts that is causing my fuel trims to go up.

I still to this day, after hundreds of dollar spent on reinstalling the kit on and off, replacing AFR sensor, intake pipe, cannot figure out what the hell is going on.

I suspect a vacuum leak as well, but that does not explain why my fuel trims suddenly begin to look fine after the engine warmup. It's not like the vacuum leak magically disappears after a few minutes of driving. This has left my tuner and I scratching our heads as to what is wrong.


Also, I've seen this thread about a leaking bypass: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=2368

How can I test this for our kit? Where is our vacuum hose for our bypass that I can pinch to test my bypass actuator?

Sorry for the stupid questions, you guys are probably all rolling your eyes at me whenever I ask a question, but I'm really new to modifying cars and I would really like to start doing things myself instead of paying hundreds to visit my mechanic every time.

[sam69]

Originally Posted by kev0

Also, as you guys may know that I have been plagued with problems ever since installing this SC.

What I don't understand is why my fuel trims normalize after engine is warmed up (about 6 minutes of driving). I monitor my fuel trims live with the ecutek bluetooth program on my head unit and its maxed out when engine is cold, but my RPM's will drop down for a second and then go back up, and that's when my fuel trims normalize. After the 'rpm drop', all is good. It's only the cold starts that is causing my fuel trims to go up.

I still to this day, after hundreds of dollar spent on reinstalling the kit on and off, replacing AFR sensor, intake pipe, cannot figure out what the hell is going on.

I suspect a vacuum leak as well, but that does not explain why my fuel trims suddenly begin to look fine after the engine warmup. It's not like the vacuum leak magically disappears after a few minutes of driving. This has left my tuner and I scratching our heads as to what is wrong.


Also, I've seen this thread about a leaking bypass: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=2368

How can I test this for our kit? Where is our vacuum hose for our bypass that I can pinch to test my bypass actuator?

Sorry for the stupid questions, you guys are probably all rolling your eyes at me whenever I ask a question, but I'm really new to modifying cars and I would really like to start doing things myself instead of paying hundreds to visit my mechanic every time.

Have you checked both end plates on the supercharger are not leaking as these are/where only a metal to metal seal and can leak air.

A good flange sealant could be the go used sparingly.

[kev0]

Originally Posted by sam69

Have you checked both end plates on the supercharger are not leaking as these are/where only a metal to metal seal and can leak air.

A good flange sealant could be the go used sparingly.

Just did. I see pcv blowby on it. A lot. Same as my bypass actuator. Going to get the actuator replaced and have the metal-to-metal plates rtv'd up.

Anyone know the harm in having PCV blowby going in the intake valves..? I'd suspect that is what happens when there is a lot of pcv blowby on the back of my supercharger. So much that I see a bit in the clear tube on the bypass actuator. Wtf? It's causing misfirings during coldstarts.

[sroby]

Originally Posted by kev0

Just did. I see pcv blowby on it. A lot. Same as my bypass actuator. Going to get the actuator replaced and have the metal-to-metal plates rtv'd up.

Anyone know the harm in having PCV blowby going in the intake valves..? I'd suspect that is what happens when there is a lot of pcv blowby on the back of my supercharger. So much that I see a bit in the clear tube on the bypass actuator. Wtf? It's causing misfirings during coldstarts.

Kevo mine did the same thing. That’s when Jon Bond and I became customer paying friends. He is the best in the buiss on these units.
Even after a rebuild take your elbow off and if your using his blue dye turbin oil, it will be saturated. When I pulled my intake before the rebuild it was coated with front gear drive blue oil. Yes it will accumulate enough to eventually foul a plug and cause a misfire code . He has spent a lot of time with there engineering side and only to fall on there def ears. There is an engineering flaw in the 210 series. And new 210 S series, these units will use oil. The S or X is just rotor pacs that are now powder coated to improve the efficiency mean less drag. They haven’t engineered a damn thing in so much as having the front seals to close to the front gear drive they get over heated and swell thus causing oil to blow by the seal lip and into the rotor pac where it gets crammed down the intake.
They are really pushing the sales of these units now on the Jeep crowd.
I’d be interested to see if the Jeep folks are experiencing the same type of oil consumption. Those units look a little different is appearance , but if they are not reengineered to have a longer clearance from seals to actual front drive gears they will have the same issue, I had my entire unit rebuild from the drive gear box front to the entire rotor pacs, right at 1300.00 with a 3 yr warranty but I think he has since stopped the long warranty process over at Jon Bond performance. It’s a shame as they make a fine compressor noise and build power excellently . No body state side to really service them other than Jon. Be a good deal to see how the other owners are farring out. It’s small and compact good boost.

[kev0]

Originally Posted by sroby

Kevo mine did the same thing. That’s when Jon Bond and I became customer paying friends. He is the best in the buiss on these units.
Even after a rebuild take your elbow off and if your using his blue dye turbin oil, it will be saturated. When I pulled my intake before the rebuild it was coated with front gear drive blue oil. Yes it will accumulate enough to eventually foul a plug and cause a misfire code . He has spent a lot of time with there engineering side and only to fall on there def ears. There is an engineering flaw in the 210 series. And new 210 S series, these units will use oil. The S or X is just rotor pacs that are now powder coated to improve the efficiency mean less drag. They haven’t engineered a damn thing in so much as having the front seals to close to the front gear drive they get over heated and swell thus causing oil to blow by the seal lip and into the rotor pac where it gets cramped down the intake.
They are really pushing the sales of these units now on the Jeep crowd.
I’d be interested to see if the Jeep folks are experiencing the same type of oil consumption. Those units look a little different is appearance , but if they are not reengineered to have a longer clearance from seals to actual front drive gears they will have the same issue, I had my entire unit rebuild from the drive gear box front to the entire rotor pacs, right at 1300.00 with a 3 yr warranty but I think he has since stopped the long warranty process over at Jon Bond performance. It’s a shame as they make a fine compressor noise and build power excellently . No body state side to really service them other than Jon. Be a good deal to see how the other owners are farring out. It’s small and compact good boost.

Very good info. Thank you

I will send it to JBP as well and have him install new bearings and replace my bypass actuator. I cannot afford a full rebuild at the time, so I'm hoping that the new bypass and bearing will prevent or slow down the blowby from leaking.

[sroby]

Originally Posted by kev0

Very good info. Thank you

I will send it to JBP as well and have him install new bearings and replace my bypass actuator. I cannot afford a full rebuild at the time, so I'm hoping that the new bypass and bearing will prevent or slow down the blowby from leaking.

It’s a real pisser because these are nice compact effect units. Codename47 in England has been running his for years. Just wish (Bullet) sprintex would address this issue. If it’s any conciliation Jon Bond was telling me the hellcat chargers are shit as well they have there own issues. This guy being a mechanical engineer in this industry for over 30 yrs I’ll believe his authority of a sales clerk for a major corporation.

[sam69]

Was one of the reasons along with heat soak that I developed the water jacket idea, it helped big time with the issues you have raised .

I'm now in the process atm of developing a new custom built laminova / intercooler core for the manifold that replaces the restrictive factory job and I think it is going to work very well .

[DGMlJDlBRZ]

Hey guys, wanted to get your guys' input about my SC and the carb legal tune.


So I have the Sprintex 210 Intercooled SC (SPS Stage 2 if that even matters), along with their CARB tune. Basically I had to email them my stock tune, they modified it, sent it back to me, and I uploaded it to the car using the tablet (which is pretty much the same to the OFT). Runs great, never had any issues.



I'm planning on parting out the car. So my question is, would the new owner of the SC be able to use the carb tune that's currently running with the SC, which is basically my stock tune modified for the SC, or would the new owner have to send Sprintex their stock tune and have it modified it for their own car?


Figured I'd take a shot asking here first before contacting Sprintex directly, which can sometimes be a hit or miss lol

[jflogerzi]

Guessing they will need to save their own ECU file and send to sprintex. Not sure of there would be a cost and if now that tablet device is locked to your car

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by sam69

Was one of the reasons along with heat soak that I developed the water jacket idea, it helped big time with the issues you have raised .

I'm now in the process atm of developing a new custom built laminova / intercooler core for the manifold that replaces the restrictive factory job and I think it is going to work very well .

Sounds very intriguing. I thought you sold your sprintex?
Im using wmi and has pretty much completely eliminated heat-soak I paired that with a perrin cai and completely gold heat the wrapped entire intake piping and a seibon fa hood with the air vents and air scoop. Keeps IATs at or below ambient pretty much all the time.