Help buying Suspension parts

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

With our coilovers and KWs, we often use another set of the factory lower bolt in the upper hole...so 2 sets of the lower bolt per side. This helps you get about -2.2 degrees even on stock topmounts, so with camber plates in addition to that it's not difficult to get -3.5.

- Andrew

Thank you for posting... I was a bit curious if the -3.5 value needed anything bolt wise.

Is using the lower bolt in the upper hole the same as "crash bolts" I have not done any research on these things because I was planning on leaving all the bolts OEM and using camber plates.

If I was to keep everything as is bolt wise do you think I could still hit -.3 with the SS2 camber plates.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by autoracer86

Thank you for posting... I was a bit curious if the -3.5 value needed anything bolt wise.

Is using the lower bolt in the upper hole the same as "crash bolts" I have not done any research on these things because I was planning on leaving all the bolts OEM and using camber plates.

If I was to keep everything as is bolt wise do you think I could still hit -.3 with the SS2 camber plates.

Yeah that's also referred to as the OEM crash bolt (the crash bolt is just the same part as the lower bolt). It's secure and works well.

All stock yes you can hit -3 degrees.

- Andrew

[ZDan]

Ah, just ordered up a pair of the lower bolts for my upcoming install, had forgotten about that! Prefer to maximize negative camber with those to have max range of adjustability up top. Hoping for -3.5...

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by ZDan

Ah, just ordered up a pair of the lower bolts for my upcoming install, had forgotten about that! Prefer to maximize negative camber with those to have max range of adjustability up top. Hoping for -3.5...

Yes me too...should have mentioned that it's arguably better to get more of your camber from the lower mount.

- andrew

[dreamwonder]

Double post.

[dreamwonder]

Originally Posted by ZDan

Ah, just ordered up a pair of the lower bolts for my upcoming install, had forgotten about that! Prefer to maximize negative camber with those to have max range of adjustability up top. Hoping for -3.5...

Datapoint, with the kw variants (with kw tophats), I was able to get 4.1 on the passenger side and only 3.5 on the driver side, had to use a spc camber bolt on the lower hole as well to get it to 4.2. When maxing out the top slotted hole check if the solder is in the way, on some of mine, I had to Dremel some off for the bolt to sit clean.

PM me if you want to use oem endlinks that is of proper length and clears the coilovers bottom as well as side wall. These 2 issues usually feel like power steering is lost when binding happens on turn 7 at the glen.

[autoracer86]

Speaking of end links I ordered whiteline ones today. Whiteline UK were running a sale so I pulled the trigger.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by dreamwonder

Datapoint, with the kw variants (with kw tophats), I was able to get 4.1 on the passenger side and only 3.5 on the driver side, had to use a spc camber bolt on the lower hole as well to get it to 4.2. When maxing out the top slotted hole check if the solder is in the way, on some of mine, I had to Dremel some off for the bolt to sit clean.

PM me if you want to use oem endlinks that is of proper length and clears the coilovers bottom as well as side wall. These 2 issues usually feel like power steering is lost when binding happens on turn 7 at the glen.

Thanks, will see how it goes. Planning to use the '23 factory links. Worked on the '17, with some rubbage of the inner wheelwell, more so in parking maneuvers than at the track.

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by ZDan

Thanks, will see how it goes. Planning to use the '23 factory links. Worked on the '17, with some rubbage of the inner wheelwell, more so in parking maneuvers than at the track.

What is the reason behind sticking with stock end links ? It is just to save money

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by autoracer86

What is the reason behind sticking with stock end links ? It is just to save money

To flip this question over, what is the reason to use aftermarket end links, is it just to spend more money?

I tend to take a minimalist approach, if the factory stuff works fine, I use it.

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by ZDan

To flip this question over, what is the reason to use aftermarket end links, is it just to spend more money?

I tend to take a minimalist approach, if the factory stuff works fine, I use it.

Remove preload off the swaybar and if you run a aftermarket bar its easier to make adjustments as removing the stock end links can be a pain.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by autoracer86

Remove preload off the swaybar and if you run a aftermarket bar its easier to make adjustments as removing the stock end links can be a pain.

I observed "preload" to be pretty much nil when I installed Eibachs on the '17. some of the factory links were pretty rusted on tho... Installed Eibachs set soft front stiff rear and still had understeer so no need to adjust...

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by ZDan

I observed "preload" to be pretty much nil when I installed Eibachs on the '17. some of the factory links were pretty rusted on tho... Installed Eibachs set soft front stiff rear and still had understeer so no need to adjust...

Well for under 300 bucks for a set of end links I am not going to complain if the benefit is small. I already saved a bunch not getting the toe arms/LCAs but I get the feeling I will get the LCAs at some stage. We will see how the alignment goes.

[NoHaveMSG]

If you are going to get toe arms just get the SPC's. They are almost half price of the SPL's and do the job just fine.