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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing.


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Old 06-14-2021, 06:30 PM   #1
Ohio Enthusiast
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Pedders offset mounts alternitive?

Looks like Pedders offset mounts are out of stock everywhere. Is there a decent budget alternative?

I'm running stock tires (215/45R17) on 17x7.5 RPF1 and have SPC camber bolts on the top hole with stock (non-PP) suspension. Current camber is around -1 and I'd like to have some more for an upcoming track day.

Longer term I might upgrade the suspension so bonus points for camber plates that work with aftermarket struts/coilovers.
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Old 06-14-2021, 07:48 PM   #2
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Whiteline makes a similar topount but they had bearing issues on our platform years ago.


I run SPC bottom and crash bolt top for -2.1.
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Old 06-14-2021, 07:54 PM   #3
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Whiteline makes a similar topount but they had bearing issues on our platform years ago.


I run SPC bottom and crash bolt top for -2.1.

Yea the white line mounts did not angle the bearings properly for the offset so they bound.
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Old 06-14-2021, 08:02 PM   #4
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Whiteline makes a similar topount but they had bearing issues on our platform years ago.
Hmm, interesting. All hits lead to KCA335 but that's not listed for the Twins on Whiteline's website. Perhaps they tried an existing product and after that didn't work out well dropped official support from the Twins?

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I run SPC bottom and crash bolt top for -2.1.
I'm a little leery of bottom camber bolts as they reduce the bolt thickness vs. stock (as opposed to the top bolts which replace a full shoulder with a cam without changing the diameter of the bolt itself).
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Old 06-14-2021, 09:09 PM   #5
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Yes, unfortunately Pedders are only ones that make of such, rubber but excentric topmounts for twins.
Mentioned whiteline's com-c topmounts are similar, and can be mounting wise fitted .. but after through several revisions whiteline didn't manage to fix issues with frequent bearing binding they finally delisted twins as being compatible with those, so i wouldn't consider them even if they technically "fit".
Other then camberplates more alternatives for more front camber:
Camberbolts in both holes (eg. KCA416 in lower hole), total ~ -2.3dg(-2.5 if lowered)
Poweflex front LCA rear eccentric bushing PFF69-801G (for maybe extre 0.7dg)
If mount hole of strut is slotted as for some coilovers or struts (in this case i advise against using lobed camberbolts in that hole though).
For track use some -3 to -3.5 of camber imho should do. One can try to get -3 via two camberbolt sets + pedders topmount or mentioned powerflex bushing.
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Old 06-15-2021, 10:07 AM   #6
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Thanks for the feedback from all! After reading some more on the bottom camber bolts I think I'll try that out. It seems that my worry of slipping/breaking of the bottom camber bolts is not really a concern.

Final question - most people use a camber bolt on the bottom and move the OEM crash bolt from the bottom to the top. I guess it's just to save money, but I already have camber bolts on the top, any issues with those vs. the crash bolts?
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Old 06-15-2021, 10:41 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio Enthusiast View Post
Thanks for the feedback from all! After reading some more on the bottom camber bolts I think I'll try that out. It seems that my worry of slipping/breaking of the bottom camber bolts is not really a concern.

Final question - most people use a camber bolt on the bottom and move the OEM crash bolt from the bottom to the top. I guess it's just to save money, but I already have camber bolts on the top, any issues with those vs. the crash bolts?
Slipping/breaking of camber bolts is not really a concern (plus 30 track days not issues)

My affordable solution where I got -3dg as mentioned by previous post:
Camber bolt on the bottom and move the OEM crash bolt from the bottom to the top.(~$30)
Pedders Top Hat (~150)
Aligment (~100)

Wait to get the Pedders.
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Old 06-15-2021, 11:06 AM   #8
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Ohio Enthusiast: IIRC with relocated stock bolt max camber was slightly but less vs camberbolts. Also you mentioned, that you have top camberbolt, i wouldn't try to use camberbolt for 14mm hole in 16mm lower one. Camberbolts are cheap. If you want to go both camberbolts route, imho no need to invent something uncommon. Get one designed for lower hole (whiteline kca416 or SPC whichever part number for it's analogue was), and be done with it. If you worry about slipping, you can paint line over head of camberbolt, to see if it has moved. But normally it shouldn't, if you tightened using right torque values, and i'd check more thoroughly suspension and wheel for other damage too, if suspension received hit strong enough to move it.
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Old 06-15-2021, 01:00 PM   #9
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Another data point -

I got to -2.5 with 1" lowering springs, 14mm SPC bolt in the bottom hole and the bottom bolt moved to the top hole, and then added pedders tophats which got me to -3.25. 10k street miles and two track days they have not slipped at all (running RT660s, laptimes about 2 seconds below spec miata times on a 75 second track). Based on tirewear I would ideally probably be at -4*, but oh well, this has been a fantastic budget setup.
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Old 06-15-2021, 02:45 PM   #10
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If the ruleset allows you could get an offset camber bushing in the lower control arm.
But I've had issues with that slipping on another platform (no slipping on 86 camber bolts in my experience).

Raceseng's are pricey but quality in my experience and more up front about their modularity and swapping parts as needed for different coilover options.
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