2013 FRS | Documented LS2 Swap | How to DIY + Parts List + CANBUS

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by vijay.dy06

Nice, what size tires are you running?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Im running a mild stagger on the track to try to keep the rear end planted (but its not helping enough), heres the exact setup:

Street:
17x9 Rota Titan 5x100 +42
255/40-17 Federal RS-RR tires

Track:
17x9 Apex ARC-8 5x100 +42
245/40-17 Hoosier A7 Front
275/35-17 Hoosier A7 Rear

Suspension:
CSG Spec'd Tein Flex A Coilovers
Alignment:
3.5* Camber front
2.1* Camber rear
0.0 toe front and rear

[bradyhuutch]

Originally Posted by spitsnaugle

Had a little tick after the last autocross. Turned into a knock on the road the next day, I pampered the car home and cracked open the oil filter to find a gold glitter bomb. Dropped the engine out in 4 hours. Split the trans and tore it down to the longblock to find the rods ate crank.




Full rebuild started. Rushing it to try to make it out to the last two events.

replaced almost anything oil touched:
Engine being washed and honed all around.
Heads being washed and reassembled.
k1 forged 3.622 crank (stock stroke)
wiseco 4.005 flat top pistons
callies compstar rods
LS7 Lifters
Melling 10295 oil pump.
ImprovedBaffle
Accusump

while I'm at it:
monster LT1-S clutch
new slave cylinder and remote bleed
new sikky short throw shifter
trans rebuild


If I had the time I'd do a mile 3.90 stroke, but that'd puts the turn around time to months. aiming to be rolling again by November 1st.

Super sick build, just read through the whole thread!! Would you ever consider doing the flat-plane crank swap for the LS? It'd give it better grip (a little less power) in the low-end and would give the car the exhaust note it should have! An LS at 9K RPM is quite an amazing sound...

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by bradyhuutch

Super sick build, just read through the whole thread!! Would you ever consider doing the flat-plane crank swap for the LS? It'd give it better grip (a little less power) in the low-end and would give the car the exhaust note it should have! An LS at 9K RPM is quite an amazing sound...

Thanks man. Its overkill already.

On the flat plane LS- Not worth the effort in my book.

[Lantanafrs2]

What a well done project! Bravo

[RUN4YODA]

Ok so if anyone can give me a little guidance this would be great, I have purchased a L33 5.3 v8 and looking for a transmission, now here is the kicker. I am disabled and cant use a manual trans, what would be the best automatic transmission to use for this swap? Please help.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by RUN4YODA

Ok so if anyone can give me a little guidance this would be great, I have purchased a L33 5.3 v8 and looking for a transmission, now here is the kicker. I am disabled and cant use a manual trans, what would be the best automatic transmission to use for this swap? Please help.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

4L60e
Sikky makes transmission mounts for it.

[TRS]

Hi spitsnaugle,

I was follwing and reading your thread for the last months. Very good build! Currently I'm working on my own DIY LS3 swap. I also decided for the CX headers, since shortys are the only Option which allow the big catalysers I need to meet german air polution regulations. But I will fabricate my own engine and trans mount since the vorshlag is to far forward and sikky to far back in my eyes. Want to place it somewhere in the middle. In best case without or only minor tunnel modifications and keeping the OEM hood latch support.

Actually Im dealing with the driveshaft alignment. As far as I know yet, it is impossible to align the engine fully horizontal. I expect a tilt angel of arround 2° backward. Can you confirm that? How did you manage to get a proper driveshaft geometry? I think a W/broken neck Layout is the only way to go since the OEM pinion is exactly horizontal from what I was able to measure. Did you also go with a W Layout?

BTW: Did you find a reason for that loud noise from the trans or driveshaft out of your vid some posts ago?

Thanks in advance!

[GrabTheWheel]

Originally Posted by spitsnaugle

Im running a mild stagger on the track to try to keep the rear end planted (but its not helping enough), heres the exact setup:

Street:
17x9 Rota Titan 5x100 +42
255/40-17 Federal RS-RR tires

Track:
17x9 Apex ARC-8 5x100 +42
245/40-17 Hoosier A7 Front
275/35-17 Hoosier A7 Rear

Suspension:
CSG Spec'd Tein Flex A Coilovers
Alignment:
3.5* Camber front
2.1* Camber rear
0.0 toe front and rear

How is the fitment with a 275 Hoosier on a 9 inch wheel? Seems like it would be less than ideal. 10 inch or at least 9 1/2" wide wheel seems like a better match for for a 275 Hoosier. Did you try 245 A7's square before?

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by TRS

Hi spitsnaugle,

I was follwing and reading your thread for the last months. Very good build! Currently I'm working on my own DIY LS3 swap. I also decided for the CX headers, since shortys are the only Option which allow the big catalysers I need to meet german air polution regulations. But I will fabricate my own engine and trans mount since the vorshlag is to far forward and sikky to far back in my eyes. Want to place it somewhere in the middle. In best case without or only minor tunnel modifications and keeping the OEM hood latch support.

Actually Im dealing with the driveshaft alignment. As far as I know yet, it is impossible to align the engine fully horizontal. I expect a tilt angel of arround 2° backward. Can you confirm that? How did you manage to get a proper driveshaft geometry? I think a W/broken neck Layout is the only way to go since the OEM pinion is exactly horizontal from what I was able to measure. Did you also go with a W Layout?

BTW: Did you find a reason for that loud noise from the trans or driveshaft out of your vid some posts ago?

Thanks in advance!

I would look at using JBA shorty headers (for GTO) they fit and you will have less spark-plug wire melting issues.

Driveline angles- digital angle finder on the rear diff flange- showed it was about 2 degrees up. i set the rear of the trans at 2.1 degrees.

Originally Posted by GrabTheWheel

How is the fitment with a 275 Hoosier on a 9 inch wheel? Seems like it would be less than ideal. 10 inch or at least 9 1/2" wide wheel seems like a better match for for a 275 Hoosier. Did you try 245 A7's square before?

9" is the minimum rim width for sure. 9.5" would be ideal.
I had square setup of 245 hoosier R7s previously, these 275's barely hook at lower speeds.

I'll PM you a video that was filmed for APEX wheels.

[TRS]

And did you find a reason for the driveshaft noise meanwhile?

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by TRS

And did you find a reason for the driveshaft noise meanwhile?

Terribly late to follow up, I did not. I still suspect the rear output bushing in the trans is the culprit.



NEW WINTER CHANGES:

To reduce my intake temps in the staging lanes and stop lights, I've switched from my original intake to a corvette style intake that goes out in front of the radiator.



To start with- I could easily see the intake had to be trimmed to fit (more on fitting this in a bit), and I had to remove my OEM hood latch and trimmed the horizontal radiator support.
I also used a 45 degree 4" elbow and trimmed it down with some slightly odd angles.





I had one area that is very tight between the radiator and rad support, so I purchased the K&N 63-3060-1 and AirRaid 251-230 to compare:



The K&N at this tight point I mentioned earlier was 90.5mm, the AirRaid was 86mm. Thats a point to AirRaid, HOWEVER, the K&N filter is more compact for a better fit... so I returned the K&N and ordered the filter only.

After trimming the AirRaid to roughly the length I needed, I put it in the oven for 5 minutes at 250* to soften it, and push/warp the high spot out of it just a little bit:


This gave me JUST enough clearance to get under my radiator support:


I also found I would need to trim my bumper crash bar.




Over the next couple of days I'll be updating as I weld material back into the bumper, attach the air filter, and button up the front end.

[nashcarr]

Great car, see it at AX often.

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by spitsnaugle

Over the next couple of days I'll be updating as I weld material back into the bumper, attach the air filter, and button up the front end.

Welding in the bumper

[TRS]

Thanks for coming back with that! I already changed the diff angle a little by removing the additional Metal caps on top of the bushings. Didn't change alot but helped a little. Overall I am close to 0° on the trans end and arround 1° on the diff end. (operating angle, not absolute. So measured to the driveshaft.) My thoughts were also that under acceleration it should tilt up a little. I reached out with all measurements to a Shop specialiced for drifeshafts. It's not located near, but the only I was able to find. They reviewed the measurements and were pretty sure that this should work. So my drive shaft is in production currently.

Unfortunately my budget is getting low since incomes goes down due to the lockdown. So I will need to stop my biuld for a while. The converters only are arround 1200USD, so have to save arround 2k to get the exhaust finished.

For the airbox I decided for a own Design. The Corvette style solution is for sure more effektive, but in Germany it is no option to trim/change parts like the latch Support and crash bar if you want to achieve the TÜV approval.

BTW: I am following your Youtube account and were watching every single fr-s video you posted in order to get an idea about the Sound level. Unfortunately there are not many clips Filme from outside.
My Main concern is that the exhaust gets too loud, at least for german Standards. Can you give me an idea how the noise level is, lets say compared to a bone stock Mk5 Camaro? I also decided to use the Perrin 3" resonated, as well the CX headers. There will be a little extra noise reduction due too the converters I believe. I assume you dont use any, correct?