Check Engine light and Traction Control Light

[Mr.ac]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Damn hot rod! - I got the picture -


humfrz

I wish I was hot roding, then I would have a valid reason why the traction light came on.

All I did was take three corners at 10 mph over the limit on the same road I take to work. Nothing fancy not some back road windy road, just a run of the mill normal two lane corners.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Mr.ac

I wish I was hot roding, then I would have a valid reason why the traction light came on.

All I did was take three corners at 10 mph over the limit on the same road I take to work. Nothing fancy not some back road windy road, just a run of the mill normal two lane corners.

Ah, I think that these cars just hiccup from time to time.

Too damn many sensors!

As you know back-in-the day, if the oil pressure gauge went to "0", the engine would blow a rod and it stopped; if the temperature gauge went to "HOT", the radiator blew off steam and the car stopped. If you had a tire blow out, the car tried to run off the road and you stopped.

If none of those things happened, you just kept driving -


humfrz

[Cynalitl]

Checking it out at the Toyota dealership today and will share any insights.


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[Djphamtom]

I'm curious if this is common after the recall. I had mine fixed by the dealership on January 22. Just this morning, I have the same issue with you guys: check engine light and traction control light. I did nothing but to start my car up. The next I thing I know, I drove off a few feet and it showed up. Went to O' Reilly and they diagnosed it as P1449 (Evaporative emission system lid open switch stuck on). Love it if you guys can help

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Djphamtom

I'm curious if this is common after the recall. I had mine fixed by the dealership on January 22. Just this morning, I have the same issue with you guys: check engine light and traction control light. I did nothing but to start my car up. The next I thing I know, I drove off a few feet and it showed up. Went to O' Reilly and they diagnosed it as P1449 (Evaporative emission system lid open switch stuck on). Love it if you guys can help

Check you gas cap before digging too deep. It could be that easy.

[Djphamtom]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Check you gas cap before digging too deep. It could be that easy.

Yep, I sure did checked my gas cap. That wasn't the problem. I'm pretty sure I'll have to dig deeper now that I realize most people are experiencing this issue since it came out. Also, Toyota found out my history of my car. Little did I know, the previous owner had my car fixed at around 14k. It's now 46k.

Anyways, I'm sure I'm going off topic here.

[Clutching]

TO FIX THIS ISSUE

ALL I HAVE TO DO IS...

1.) Ensure the cars' ignition is completely off and/or the key both keyless and access key is 10 or more feet away from the vehicle or completely removed from the vehicle(do not carry the key in your pocket during the entirety of the process).

2.) Open the hood using the hood release button located under the steering to the left by the driver's side door.

-- Then remove the positive terminal port FROM the battery (located in the engine bayon the left; attached to the battery's positive terminal under the hood).

3.) This is removed and left detached for about 10-30 minutes.

4.) After the positive terminal on the battery is left disconnected for 10-30 minutes (WITHOUT THE TERMINALS' CABLE TOUCHING ANYTHING CONDUCTIVE), it is then re-attached.

-- This should be done on a cold engine to allow for REMOVING ANY 'RESIDUAL CHARGE'(Residual meaning any electrical charge still left/active within the car and any other electrical systems).This disconnection ensures there is 0 conduction or electric flow through the car and WILL ALSO reset the cars' CHECK ENGINE light and TIRE SLIP INDICATOR Light.(If this doesn't reset AND fix the cars' issue repeat steps 2.) Through 4.) For longer than 30 minutes).

5.) Retrieve the vehicles key and use the keyless access remote or use the ignition key to ignite the engine and check if the lights have gone off in your vehicle.

-- If done correctly this WIlL fix your cars' issue and reset the car so that both the tire slip indicator light and check engine lights are off when starting your vehicle. This will also enable all of it's interior functions such as it's CRUISE CONTROL, VSC SPORT BUTTON AND TRACTION CONTROL. Guaranteed!

-- If this problem remains try again BY REMOVING BOTH TERMINALS' FROM THE BATTERY(POSITIVE/NEGATIVE) and repeat steps this way.

If this problem persists then turn on the car by ignition and activate all buttons, Cruise control on, VSC sport mode and Trac control button on also. Then turn off engine and repeat the steps.
-- These steps should also fix the same problem with the Subaru BRZ!

All of these steps have fixed my Scion FR-S. I also owned a Subaru BRZ before and I am familiar with both vehicles.

[NZtoyotaGT86]

I had the Check engine and VSC lights come on a couple days ago. Went to the Toyota Dealer and they ran the codes which pointed to the battery. They tested the battery and it was knackered. Got a new battery and it's been going good as gold since

[samatthews75]

Originally Posted by Clutching

TO FIX THIS ISSUE

ALL I HAVE TO DO IS...

1.) Ensure the cars' ignition is completely off and/or the key both keyless and access key is 10 or more feet away from the vehicle or completely removed from the vehicle(do not carry the key in your pocket during the entirety of the process).

2.) Open the hood using the hood release button located under the steering to the left by the driver's side door.

-- Then remove the positive terminal port FROM the battery (located in the engine bayon the left; attached to the battery's positive terminal under the hood).

3.) This is removed and left detached for about 10-30 minutes.

4.) After the positive terminal on the battery is left disconnected for 10-30 minutes (WITHOUT THE TERMINALS' CABLE TOUCHING ANYTHING CONDUCTIVE), it is then re-attached.

-- This should be done on a cold engine to allow for REMOVING ANY 'RESIDUAL CHARGE'(Residual meaning any electrical charge still left/active within the car and any other electrical systems).This disconnection ensures there is 0 conduction or electric flow through the car and WILL ALSO reset the cars' CHECK ENGINE light and TIRE SLIP INDICATOR Light.(If this doesn't reset AND fix the cars' issue repeat steps 2.) Through 4.) For longer than 30 minutes).

5.) Retrieve the vehicles key and use the keyless access remote or use the ignition key to ignite the engine and check if the lights have gone off in your vehicle.

-- If done correctly this WIlL fix your cars' issue and reset the car so that both the tire slip indicator light and check engine lights are off when starting your vehicle. This will also enable all of it's interior functions such as it's CRUISE CONTROL, VSC SPORT BUTTON AND TRACTION CONTROL. Guaranteed!

-- If this problem remains try again BY REMOVING BOTH TERMINALS' FROM THE BATTERY(POSITIVE/NEGATIVE) and repeat steps this way.

If this problem persists then turn on the car by ignition and activate all buttons, Cruise control on, VSC sport mode and Trac control button on also. Then turn off engine and repeat the steps.
-- These steps should also fix the same problem with the Subaru BRZ!

All of these steps have fixed my Scion FR-S. I also owned a Subaru BRZ before and I am familiar with both vehicles.

Did this. Fixed an oil issue. Lights were off, now back on. Any info appreciated

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[Lp86]

Has anyone found what is causing this? ive taken my car to the dealership 4 times, everytime they say they fix the problem, and after driving my car for 20-30 mins both lights come back on. ive sent about $100-$400 each trip to the dealer and at this point im about to sell the car as is with the lights on. Had nothing but problems with this car since i bought it, but this one just seems to be persistent and unfixable. ive done everything the thread says and nothing has worked.

[blsfrs]

What codes are you getting. Do you know the history of the car?

[RZNT4R]

Originally Posted by Lp86

Has anyone found what is causing this? ive taken my car to the dealership 4 times, everytime they say they fix the problem, and after driving my car for 20-30 mins both lights come back on. ive sent about $100-$400 each trip to the dealer and at this point im about to sell the car as is with the lights on. Had nothing but problems with this car since i bought it, but this one just seems to be persistent and unfixable. ive done everything the thread says and nothing has worked.

What was causing what? The original poster's P000A? the other guy's transmission issue?The third guy's EVAP code? This thread is all over the place and the 4th guy writing a dissertation on how to unplug the battery to "fix" things isn't helping.

Be as precise and as concise as you can be with your issues. Any given light being on isn't a clue. Codes people, we need codes, and many times, not just PCM codes.