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BRZ First-Gen (2012+) -- General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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#15 |
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Not really. I have a cat-less header with a stock front pipe. If I'm not mistaking, the header cat is more focused on cold start emissions as it heats up faster being next to the engine and all. It has far less cells doing the work. Once the car is warmed up, the rear cat is doing the majority of the work.
I only ever smell fumes when idling for a minute or two on cold start. I never smell fumes once I get going and especially once the car is warmed up. I don't do much idling during my drives of course, but the car has had to sit in traffic for at least 10-15 minutes in a single spot during traffic from accidents in the past. Never smell anything. |
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#16 | |
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Have you ever driven behind your car while someone else drives it?
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#17 | |
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It's also illegal as hell but YMMV.
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I have not, but the concern here was for the smell personally, not to those around you as far I understood from the comment. But I honestly have a feeling those behind me don't smell anything either. If I don't smell anything after idling for 15-20 mins in the car, it's unlikely anyone else is smelling anything.
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#21 | |
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EDIT: To add to this, the rear cat is quite a bit larger in size, likely definitely having more cells. Also, tons of people have confirmed that if you remove the rear cat, you will have a smell compared to removing the front cat. |
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#22 | |
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I’d be curious to see where you read this stuff as I could easily be wrong too. Just want to learn more about this stuff. |
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Do you have a side by side photo?
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There is definitely added smell by deleting the header cat, but no where near as nasty as fully catless. I mostly notice it in colder weather under harder throttle when I crack the window. AFR is richer which makes sense.
Fully catless is near unbearable by comparison in the same exact condition. the entire cabin reeks of fumes, where the single cat I get a bit of a smell but it doesn't linger and goes away immediately |
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#25 | |
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I realize everyone’s calculus is different, but for me with a street driven vehicle - particularly one that is already in 100hp/liter territory - no thanks. And for those whose calculus differs, okay, ditch your cats. But if you wind up in trouble with the authorities, I will snicker a bit.
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#26 | |
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Having gone back and forth from stock to a UEL header and tune, back to stock then onto my current JDL made me notice how I changed my shifting habits with the header/tune. Definitely some drivability perks. Header sort of unlocks 4000-6000rpm range as usable shift points around town under moderate/harder acceleration as the engine doesn't feel dead when you hit the next gear at 3000-4500rpm(the "dip"). Not something I noticed until going back to stock again and realizing how much I shift at those RPMs every day. Engine still makes all of its power above 5000rpm, but don't feel like I need to rev the nuts out of it all the time to keep the engine happy. Last edited by RToyo86; 02-25-2023 at 06:12 PM. |
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#27 |
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^100% agree with this. I have after market catted headers (HKS GT-Spec), with a custom dyno tune and it is the low down torque where you notice it most. Top end is a little better, but you can become a little more “shift lazy” cruising around town as you have the extra torque down low.
As for going catless headers, I wanted to stay legal. OP, I wouldn’t go from aftermarket catted to aftermarket catless as the gains would be negligible and you definitely won’t be legal then. Not sure about how it affects the snap, crackle and popping. If you really wanted that, you could probably get it added via a tune. |
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#28 |
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I do not unfortunately aside from having the exhaust apart myself in the past. Here are some photos I found from a quick search that give a pretty good visual of size difference.
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134526 https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63714 |
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