Alignment suggestion/Questions

[leunggary]

Tires 17x9 +38 with 245 40 17.
Coils : Cusco Street Spec A with oem top mounts on rear + front.
Other suspension parts are stock.

Planning to lower car by 25-30mm then drive it for half a week then get an alignment.

Probably want toe to be as close to 0 as possible in the front, and I hear that 0.08 is fine in the rear. As for alignment, I don't really know what I want. I'm reading that the front should have more camber, and the rear should have less, vise versa. Suggestions are welcome.

What is an optimal alignment suggestion with my setup? I'm reading various posts about more camber on the front vs the rear is optimal, while having an even amount of camber is good to having more camber in the rear is optimal.

Do I need a corner Balance? Do I need LCA's? Do I need camber plates? I do know that I need an alignment.

Car use: DD / spirited highway driving / canyon roads.

[Mr.ac]

Just ask for stock alignment numbers with a bit more camber.
If I recall stock specs are about 1.5 camber up front and 2.5 on the rear. So adding a 1 degree should be alright.

As far as corners blance goes, if you don't track your car it's not worth it.
The LCAs and camber plates, if you want more than stock camber specs you'll need them.

If it doesn't feel right or you want more camber you can always get it done again.

[churchx]

stock alignment is 0 camber front, 1.2 camber rear. Understeer biased. Zero toe front, +0.1 to +0.2 total slight toe-in rear.

Which alignment is optimal is application specific. One - for daily drive, one - for track.
For daily driving only i'd prefer -1 to -1.5 front, -1 rear.

[86MLR]

I'm currently at -2° front and rear, 0 toe everywhere.

MCA Street Performance coils, with MCA traction mod, ride height is 350mm front and rear, measured from guard to center of the wheel, or a 20mm drop if that's easier.

From looking at the contact patch on the tyres (Hankook RS4 215) it looks pretty good, I could lose maybe 0.5° in the rear, but LCA are not worth the outlay to chase it on a daily.

Tyre pressures are 34 front 32 rear.

Although the car is a daily, it does gets used hard on the weekend hitting "the royal nasho" and various other fun drives.

It sticks like shit on a blanket.

My suggestion is set it at around -2° everywhere and look at how the car is using its tyres and how it handles.

No 2 people will give the same suggestion though, it's a test and adjust kind of thing, all to do with suspension settings, tyre choice and driving style.

In saying that, how the tyre patch is used and handling characteristics are the first thing in determining what you need.

Enjoy.

[re-animator]

If you don't have camber bolts or plates in the front you won't be able to do anything anyway. Get some bolts and Max them out (good for 1.25-1.75 degrees). For a small drop you should have a natural 1.5 in the rear which is fine for dd and autox, etc. If you want to do some serious tracking get camber plates in the front and lcas in the rear and start with -3f -2r and adjust from there.

[leunggary]

Alright right now the front sticks out quite a bit. I'm getting camber bolts and after a week I'll get an alignment. Thanks everyone!

[Code Monkey]

No need to drive the car for half a week for suspension to settle. A couple spirited rounds around the block and head straight to an alignment shop.

[Lust]

Get as much camber as you can in the front. 1-2 degrees negative in the rear depending on driving style. 0 toe up front with a little toe in the rear.

Yes you may need plates up front to get desired camber (usually you want -2 or more) and might need LCA in the rear to get to desired camber if too low.

[churchx]

For DD "as much camber as one can in the front" is excessive.

[cjd]

Originally Posted by churchx

For DD "as much camber as one can in the front" is excessive.

With just bolts? Unlikely.

[churchx]

For just DD and if lowered 1"? Hmm. Single set of camberbolts shouldn't be "worth" then .. -2+ maxed out? IIRC -1.5 max at stock height/suspension. Yes, even -3 will still be DD driveable/manageable .. just that it won't be optimal. Hence i'd replace that "as much as one can" to specific -1 to -1.5.

[Lust]

Originally Posted by churchx

For DD "as much camber as one can in the front" is excessive.

You probably didn’t read my post entirely or fully understand ...

[churchx]

I'm just speaking from own experience. Driven all previous two years through with still track oriented -3 front/-2.5 rear, and there were several things i didn't like and someone daily driving only may not like even more so. Now, at least for winter i'm dialing back more DD oriented alignment and in spring with track season restarting back to track oriented. Also from what i know, unlowered maxed out camberbolt set is to about -1.5, but OP said that he plans to lower too, which probably will gain camber on top of that.

[RamonWhome]

At this point I would do a 4 wheel alignment. Problems in the rear can create a pull. Even though you have a solid rear axle, you may have an issue creating a thrust problem.