Why the popping, rattling, banging sounds?

[Scargod]

My new, second gen BRZ is making noise that sounds like it's coming from the right rear suspension...
I've installed Voodoo LCA's back there and Racer X toe links. I have new coilovers with 700K springs.
I think the noise started during my first day on the track, where I was doing a car control clinic in the morning and track sessions in the afternoon. I had 600 miles on the car at that point and it became noticeable later in the morning during the car control clinic at LRP, which is like an autocross course or go-cart track with some elevation changes. The car's never had a hard launch.
It seems like it wasn't getting worse after I first noticed it at LRP. I did check things on my return and the right toe link locking nut had loosened.

NOW, I've added Blox 21mm/17mm sway bars. That's an increase of 36% in the front and 47% increase in the rear (from stock 2022 BRZ cross-section size). The rear sway bar was fairly resistant to moving when the brackets got tightened down. I sprayed the mounts with silicone spray.
The end links I made from McMaster-Carr high strength, 10mm bolt ID, ball ends with Teflon liners.

The noise was there before the sway bars and end links but now it seems like there's more noise and the frequency or amount of noises has increased. Now, when I drive on the street it sounds about like I'm making popcorn in the RR corner! There is an almost constant metallic popping/banging noise. I can't find anything loose, cracked, etc. All the "new" ball ends seem very tight. Most, if not all have Teflon liners, and they are new, if not almost new. The preload on the coilover springs seems correct and everything is tight. The springs are not loose at full droop.
Anyone have a similar experience?

FWIW, I have an STI track car with similar setup and it seemed quieter.

[ka-t_240]

What coilovers? Were all your parts new? Is there play in the bearings on anything?

Double check everything you did and make sure everything is tight. A loose endlink nut, even by under 1 turn can cause all sorts of nasty noises. Let alone the coilovers, sway bar mounts, etc.

Also make sure you are not hitting anything with the front sway bar.

[strat61caster]

racecar parts make racecar noises, there's a reason OEM has a bunch of non-metallic poly bushing material. I switched to SPC/Whiteline steel rear control arms, they squish down on the endlinks and damper to minimize noise (unlike the shiny aluminum ones) and I switched back to the OEM swaybar endlink exactly for this reason (I also bent my racerx endlinks hitting a pot hole), I also have OE rear top hats. Goodluck.

[NoHaveMSG]

Ditto above. I have racerX rear LCA's and had their toe links. I found the lock nuts on the toe links and the LCA's would work themselves loose and part of my regular checks was making sure they are tight. I also cross drilled the lock nuts on the LCA's and stuck a nylon tipped set screw to keep them from moving. The joints would make noise too, I kept a spare set of each part to replace the ones on the toe links once and sold them with an extra set.

[Scargod]

Originally Posted by ka-t_240

What coilovers? Were all your parts new? Is there play in the bearings on anything?

The noise is definitely coming from the rear. All my parts are brand new, the car had 600 miles on it. I got the nut tight again (it was just one nut that had backed off, but obviously I didn't get enough Locktite and torque on it).
I have a lift. I have loaded the suspension manually with a long board, prybars, etc., wiggled everything and double-checked everything.
I was afraid I would get these kind of comments. Like I said, I'm used to metal Heim joints and their noise but not when everything's brand new.

Was kinda hoping that someone would say that the stock coochie frammitz bracket cracked on all cars that are tracked with stiff suspensions.

BTW, I'm now very pleased with the handling of the car. I'm running 3.5° camber in the front and 2.5° in the rear and no toe front or rear.
With the stiffer sway bars and more emphasis on the ratio being higher in the rear, I like the feel of the oversteer I can now get.
I've got a journal with lots of info.

[ka-t_240]

I have seen a lot of aftermarket parts with "spherical" bearings in them, like toe links/control arms, etc have junk spherical bearings in them that have slop/play, that is why I asked.

[Scargod]

I think the Racer X link might be the only one I would question, since I've never used their products before.
Anything's possible. As I said, I pried and shook everything (all the normal stuff you do to identify suspension wear) and I couldn't identify that anything was loose. Perhaps the Teflon liner can deform too easily for my use?
Just seems like a hundred miles or less is too soon for them to start wearing and having slop.
Thanks for you input.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Scargod

I think the Racer X link might be the only one I would question, since I've never used their products before.
Anything's possible. As I said, I pried and shook everything (all the normal stuff you do to identify suspension wear) and I couldn't identify that anything was loose. Perhaps the Teflon liner can deform too easily for my use?
Just seems like a hundred miles or less is too soon for them to start wearing and having slop.
Thanks for you input.

Get the car in the air and leave the wheel on it so you have some leverage and wiggle it by the spokes to see if you can feel anything. I would also check your top mounts, and sway bar end links. Even when the end links feel tight they will sometimes knock.

[Scargod]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Even when the end links feel tight they will sometimes knock.

In my previous comment I said I did all the things you've suggested doing.
I think it's my new solid end links transmitting more noise (in addition to the solid LCA's) into the body than ever before.
They are new, high-load joints from McMaster-Carr and their hardware is usually very good, though I see these are made in China...
I could go bigger or use someone else's. If I went larger than what's available for 10mm I'd have to enlarge holes in my LCA and sway bar ends or make some adapter sleeves.
One issue is the wife doesn't like the noise. She thinks something is wrong with the car and it disturbs her. So she wants to ride in our other car.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Scargod

In my previous comment I said I did all the things you've suggested doing.
I think it's my new solid end links transmitting more noise (in addition to the solid LCA's) into the body than ever before.
They are new, high-load joints from McMaster-Carr and their hardware is usually very good, though I see these are made in China...
I could go bigger or use someone else's. If I went larger than what's available for 10mm I'd have to enlarge holes in my LCA and sway bar ends or make some adapter sleeves.
One issue is the wife doesn't like the noise. She thinks something is wrong with the car and it disturbs her. So she wants to ride in our other car.

Yes, I read your post. You said you wiggled things but didn't go about saying how. That was why I was more specific. For example, if you are wiggling by the outside of the tire that is not going to help when trying to feel a possibly tiny and barely perceivable knock so you need to wiggle by something more solid.

I would say they are not using a good joint for the blox sway bar links and that is what you are hearing.

I have never had a spherical knock unless it was on it's way out. If you think about the load that is on a spherical, and it's tiny surface area in relation to the load, any kind of play is just hammering the joint apart. I have never had one that wasn't a bit snug at least when new. Unless they are using an all metal joint though I don't see a reason too. Those have to have a bit of play but aren't really that great for this type of application.

[Scargod]

NoHaveMSG, Re-read my first post. I added a picture of the links I made from the McMaster-Carr parts. Note that they have dust seals and I'm using high-strength bolts.
I'd say the noise or volume hasn't changed and I just did almost two hours on the track last Friday. Nothing has come loose.
I'm beginning to think it's the Voodoo LCA's and that the tight, solid sway bar and end links have just amplified the sound that I was already hearing with the stock sway bar. It might be the toe links. The one toe link has not come loose again since I cleaned and redid it with blue thread locker.
I guess it's something I'll have to learn to live with.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Scargod

NoHaveMSG, Re-read my first post. I added a picture of the links I made from the McMaster-Carr parts. Note that they have dust seals and I'm using high-strength bolts.
I'd say the noise or volume hasn't changed and I just did almost two hours on the track last Friday. Nothing has come loose.
I'm beginning to think it's the Voodoo LCA's and that the tight, solid sway bar and end links have just amplified the sound that I was already hearing with the stock sway bar. It might be the toe links. The one toe link has not come loose again since I cleaned and redid it with blue thread locker.
I guess it's something I'll have to learn to live with.

It is going to be really hard to tell what is going on without being able to replicate it static. It could be the link twisting and hitting the spacers or the clearance on the bolt through the link may be a little loose. If nothing looks like it is damaged I don't know if I would be too worried about it. I would just make checking the components a regular part of your PM.