2022 Brz break in period

[IoNicStrike]

What was the procedure you guys followed for the break in period. Was it just the normal stay below 4k rpm. Did any of you guys perform an oil change at the 1000km mark.

[eyeballs]

Either follow the manual, or drive it directly to the track. Both and everything in between have been done. There's enough internet discussion on break-in theory and testing to keep you occupied for quite a long time.

[Midnightsky]

Originally Posted by eyeballs

Either follow the manual, or drive it directly to the track. Both and everything in between have been done. There's enough internet discussion on break-in theory and testing to keep you occupied for quite a long time.

I decided to go about halfway in between, Im at 300km now and upped the rev beeper to 5000RPM tonight. Every 100km from here Im adding another 500RPM until redline comes.

[Angrypuppy]

I drove about 250-300 miles below 4,000. Between 300-600 went 5,500-6,000 a few times. Two track days at 600 miles. Finished the weekend track days at just over 1,000 miles and changed the oil.

I have no idea what I’m doing so that’s not advice just what I did.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by eyeballs

Either follow the manual, or drive it directly to the track. Both and everything in between have been done. There's enough internet discussion on break-in theory and testing to keep you occupied for quite a long time.

This is the truest thing ever written!

Originally Posted by Midnightsky

I decided to go about halfway in between, Im at 300km now and upped the rev beeper to 5000RPM tonight. Every 100km from here Im adding another 500RPM until redline comes.

This is the best compromise to the truest thing ever written.

[TommyW]

You can just take it straight to the track or do what IAG recommends when you buy one of their engines. Most people will be somewhere in the middle of those 2 methods.

[tenderization]

Originally Posted by eyeballs

Either follow the manual, or drive it directly to the track. Both and everything in between have been done. There's enough internet discussion on break-in theory and testing to keep you occupied for quite a long time.

See also:

[OkieSnuffBox]

Just drive it. It doesn't take 1000 miles for the rings to hone themselves to the bore. It's pretty much all done in the first 10-20 miles.

Let it warm up all the way before you beat on it. And don't constantly beat on it and you'll be fine.

[BRZRT]

While the best way to break in a new (or rebuilt) motor is open to much debate there's near universal agreement on a coupe things you DON'T want to do:

1) Lugging the the motor in too high of gear.

For instance, at 15 MPH, it's better to rev it a bit (~3,000RPM in 1st, or ~2,000RPM in 2nd) than to lug it in a high of gear (1,000 RPM in 5th!). Obviously this pertains to cars with manuals and is good advice post break-in as well. Lugging a motor can put more stress on the engine and drivetrain than running it at the red line (which of course should be avoided also on a brand new engine).

2) Cruise/drive long distance at the same speed, RPM and gear.

I live in North Texas and have bought new vehicles in Oklahoma and Houston. DFW is a straight shot up I-45 from Houston so driving home I'd vary speed and gears on the highway and take about every other offramp which allowed me run down through the gears, make a complete stop (helps bed the brake pads in properly), and then run back up through the gears as I accelerated and re-merge onto the Interstate.

When driving back from Oklahoma I took curvy and lightly traveled backroads which allow varying RPM and working the gears and brakes without having to come to a complete stop. When I had to get back on the Interstate for the last 70 miles I took alternate exit ramps as above.

The main thing you don' want to do if buying a car far from a dealership hours from home is get on the Interstate, set the cruise control, and drive for several hours at the same speed and RPMs.

On the other hand, if traffic is heavy and stop & go varying the speed and RPMs will pretty much take care of itself.

Good luck!

[Lightened]

A mechanic friend who serviced F40's and F50's recommended any good quality synthetic/conventional blend oil for break in to help piston rings seat properly.

Also found this:

Engine Oil Break-In Additive

• Provides motor oils with antiwear additives like zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) necessary to protect against camshaft and valvetrain damage on break-in.
• Allows piston rings to seat properly with less-slick oil, while antiwear additives protect other engine components to avoid excessive wear.

[KillerBMotorsport]

[Up4speed]

I agree with him fully regarding break in, but I think he missed a VERY important 6th rule.
Don't lug, or strain the engine by being in too high of a gear.

[TommyW]

Break in additive and change to synthetic at 1,500 miles is a good, safe bet. Plus all the other suggestions regarding lugging and cruise control

[Desertnate]

On the 2.0L turbo'd engines in many VW/Audi's, you have a greater tendency to have oil burning issues when really babying the car during break in. No one could really say why, but the anecdotal evidence was pretty interesting. I didn't beat on my GTI when it was new, but I wasn't easy on it either. It never burned a drop of oil.

I plan on taking a similar approach to this car. Since I picked it up with 12 miles on the ODO, I'll be pretty careful for the first 100 or so and then start slowly stressing it more and more as I build up the miles.

4K RMP seems really low for this car. I routinely hit 4K without even trying...it's about the point when things really start to get fun!