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Old 06-18-2020, 04:59 PM   #1
tintumz22
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Help identifying sound. Newly rebuilt coilovers installed.

I made a new thread because I did not want to derail the other person’s thread. I installed a rebuilt AST 5100 using stock top hats are from a 2017 car (asked damper rebuilder to install the tops hats for me, to make sure I don’t screw it up), new spl front end links and front lower hole camber bolts. Everything else stock. The sound is most audible in the front driver’s side. The sound is a distinct thud in all small dips of the road not metal on metal hitting each other. Only in lower speed like less than 10-15miles/hr in parking area. I did double and triple checked on all nuts and bolts and all are torqued to specs and tight. Couple videos attached. Note: I have not done an alignment. Thank you in advance. Wanted to see if anybody had similar issue and got it resolved. (You may or may not need headphones to hear it. Camera is under wheel well so the sound of engine is loud too.)



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Old 06-19-2020, 10:48 AM   #2
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Where are you at on the valving for the shocks currently?

If you're all the way at zero on the rebound, turn it up a couple clicks and retest.

You could have something on the rebound side of things where the piston isn't completely seating and it making the noise. Especially if it's only occurring at low speed and not high speed (like hitting a highway bridge rut or something) - I'd suspect it's something along those lines.
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Old 06-19-2020, 11:18 AM   #3
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Where are you at on the valving for the shocks currently?

If you're all the way at zero on the rebound, turn it up a couple clicks and retest.

You could have something on the rebound side of things where the piston isn't completely seating and it making the noise. Especially if it's only occurring at low speed and not high speed (like hitting a highway bridge rut or something) - I'd suspect it's something along those lines.
Thank you for your reply. I'll try that again on my lunch. I tried it full stiff setting, midway and full soft but just drove it in street normally. Maybe I need to drive it harder to push that piston seated.
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Old 06-19-2020, 11:44 AM   #4
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Is your top nut properly tightened?
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Old 06-19-2020, 11:47 AM   #5
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^ My first thought.
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Old 06-19-2020, 12:02 PM   #6
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Is your top nut properly tightened?
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^ My first thought.
Yes, double checked it too. I tightened to the point that I felt the allen key part is almost gonna give but backed off. Both sides are tight. Or do you guys can suggest a different way to tightened them?
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Old 06-19-2020, 12:38 PM   #7
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Yes, double checked it too. I tightened to the point that I felt the allen key part is almost gonna give but backed off. Both sides are tight. Or do you guys can suggest a different way to tightened them?
Allen key?

It's an M12 nut
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Old 06-19-2020, 01:29 PM   #8
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Help identifying sound. Newly rebuilt coilovers installed.

Quote:
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Allen key?

It's an M12 nut
Sorry, I was not specific. Used an allen key to keep the shaft still and used a passed through wrench to tighten the nut. Use an impact gun to see if that will tighten it better? Not sure if they used impact gun from the rebuilder to install the top hats but I can try that because I have an electric one.

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Old 06-19-2020, 01:48 PM   #9
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Yes, double checked it too. I tightened to the point that I felt the allen key part is almost gonna give but backed off. Both sides are tight. Or do you guys can suggest a different way to tightened them?
Use a pass-through torque wrench.
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Old 06-19-2020, 02:53 PM   #10
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Use a pass-through torque wrench.
I have a normal torque wrench and crows foot for it that can work on a socket. How many ft lbs is recommended to tighten it?
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Old 06-19-2020, 03:35 PM   #11
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I have a normal torque wrench and crows foot for it that can work on a socket. How many ft lbs is recommended to tighten it?
I have no idea; ask your rebuilder or reference your owner's manual.
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Old 06-19-2020, 03:52 PM   #12
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Thanks. Will do. I appreciate all the replies.
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Old 06-19-2020, 06:03 PM   #13
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Looks like 41lbs


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Old 06-19-2020, 08:35 PM   #14
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Stop top hat =/= stock center nut. Depending on his shaft, it may be different, which may have a different torque spec.

OEM is M12x1.25, but Tein and JRZ are both M14x1.5. AST is typically M12x1.25, but not always.
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