JUN GT Intake Manifold - It's finally here!

[FR-S2GT86]

Originally Posted by prandelia

Dynosty has handled all the tuning for this car.

Have you tried any of Hal's remote tunes? Was curious as to how he is to work with? He's been pretty helpful with a few issues I had getting my car initially flashed for it's first remote tuning session with Zach at CSG. I purchased my Pro ECU kit from Dynosty.

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Wow it's basically the price of a JDL turbo kit ($4680). Also from the description it looks like it also allows the engine to rev to 8000 rpm.

[nikitopo]

Too much for buying basically a set of tubes.

[Goingnowherefast]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

Too much for buying basically a set of tubes.

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

Wow it's basically the price of a JDL turbo kit ($4680). Also from the description it looks like it also allows the engine to rev to 8000 rpm.

Yeah, like the Racerx intake manifold is sub $1,000. While the design is obviously much different, the weld quality and the materials definitely don't look 5x as good that's for sure.

Interested to see results.

[RayRay88]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

Too much for buying basically a set of tubes.

The same could be said about your pulleys.
Not to mention a bunch of other parts available in the aftermarket.

Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast

Yeah, like the Racerx intake manifold is sub $1,000. While the design is obviously much different, the weld quality and the materials definitely don't look 5x as good that's for sure.

Interested to see results.

This looks to be a limited run production item, you're not paying for the quality only, it's the R&D costs. They probably don't expect to sell a ton and therefore have priced it accordingly. I also wouldn't be surprised if these were all handmade.

[Goingnowherefast]

Originally Posted by RayRay88

This looks to be a limited run production item, you're not paying for the quality only, it's the R&D costs. They probably don't expect to sell a ton and therefore have priced it accordingly. I also wouldn't be surprised if these were all handmade.

To be fair, the RacerX IM is almost certainly handmade..

[RayRay88]

Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast

To be fair, the RacerX IM is almost certainly handmade..

For sure, and it's entirely possible that the RacerX may be the better value, or product.

I just think it's quite naïve/pedantic to call it a "set of tubes" and is the same mindset that stops companies from taking a risk and creating innovative parts on this platform.

Same thing happened with RacerX, that thread filled up with such negativity and garbage, and it was ongoing development work. I'm surprised they even continued after some of those comments.

I'm quite interested in seeing these results either way.

[PulsarBeeerz]

Originally Posted by RayRay88

For sure, and it's entirely possible that the RacerX may be the better value, or product.

I just think it's quite naïve/pedantic to call it a "set of tubes" and is the same mindset that stops companies from taking a risk and creating innovative parts on this platform.

Same thing happened with RacerX, that thread filled up with such negativity and garbage, and it was ongoing development work. I'm surprised they even continued after some of those comments.

I'm quite interested in seeing these results either way.

X2 That is this forum for you. Complaining about cost and down playing design on an item they were never going to buy in the first place.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by RayRay88

For sure, and it's entirely possible that the RacerX may be the better value, or product.

I just think it's quite naïve/pedantic to call it a "set of tubes" and is the same mindset that stops companies from taking a risk and creating innovative parts on this platform.

Same thing happened with RacerX, that thread filled up with such negativity and garbage, and it was ongoing development work. I'm surprised they even continued after some of those comments.

I'm quite interested in seeing these results either way.

Yes and no. That could have been saved with some independent results, they gave up on their beta testing. I get why, it was just a bummer.

[JesseG]

Originally Posted by prandelia

Manifold installed. Dyno tomorrow. Let's see what this thing can do.

It’s gorgeous, JUN is legendary for a reason. I hope you get some nice gains! I have the TRD intake also and love it. Can you fit the HKS air inlet duct also?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[captain awesome]

Tomorrow is now today. Excited to see the results.

[ichitaka05]

Now now, all yay sayers and nay sayers. We have very limited information & data on this IM. It's beneficial for all of us to get some info/data to the world/forum.

From seeing the result, we can discuss. Til then, cook some popcorn

[Capt Spaulding]

It is damn sexy cost be damned. With the gold foil it looks pure NASA - Perseverance spec. The design is at the other end of the racerX product. This thing appears to have a LOT of plenum volume, Hope it works.

[prandelia]

The numbers don't look good, but that's not the whole picture. There are alot of factors that are also definitely costing me WHP from my previous dyno, that have nothing to do with the JUN manifold.

1. Current dyno was on 10W50 oil, previous was on 5W40. That makes a bigger difference, especially in lower HP cars.

2. Current dyno ambient temps were about 15-20 deg cooler, which when you combine that with 10W50 motor oil, can be a big hp sapper. My oil pressure at 8K was 110PSI, and my oil temps never got over 190.....previous dyno was run on a much warmer day with much lighter 5W40. The less HP you have, the bigger the variation you will see in WHP on a dyno from different oil weights. That's just a fact.

3. Brand new, zero miles 4.556 Ring and Pinion installed with solid spacer bearing, and much beefier Supra MK3 roller bearings. These are almost double the surface area, so for higher power and/or racing it will definitely be more durable, but increased surface area will def add friction and rob some whp. Plus, brand new rear end probl needs to loosen up a bit. It was installed and then immediately put on the dyno. It's a race car, I can't "break it in" on the street. Pic attached for reference, you can see how much bigger it is. On a no-torque, 200whp engine, these things will matter.

4. And finally, the most controversial, but often proven is that numerically higher (lower geared) cars typically put down less WHP all things else being equal on dynojets. There are plenty of inertia dyno operators who routinely see this, some even giving a rule of thumb of a 30whp loss shown, per every increase of 1 (4.3 to 5.3 for example). Mine has always been on the same dyno-jet.


So, all these factors definitely cost whp, they don't add any. I can easily see all of the above costing me 5-10whp. If they JUN manifold can shift the powerband (which it does seem to do ever so slightly at high RPM), or if that is some effect from lower gearing, and make some power, it has certainly been offset by the other factors which are greater. This manifold liked some cam timing, I will note. The car also wanted a bit more fuel, but big power wasn't added, which kinda points to drive-train/friction losses.

However, we know for a fact that the car will accelerate harder with a 4.556 than with my previous 4.3. The only REAL test left to do is to schedule another appt., make a pull with the JUN, then install the OE manifold immediate after and make a pull and see what happens.

Contrary to what the numbers show, I'm not freaking out, because I know the car is going to be faster. I can almost guarantee if I put 5W40 in (or run the car on a hotter day simulating race conditions), and dyno'd on a 20deg warmer day, I would pick up 4-5whp. Another forum member here picked up 10whp with only the JUN manifold (much better variable control than me), and sent me dynos, JUN also sent me dynos from development, so it makes power, how much for each car/situation will be different though. Perhaps for my car, which already has literally every bolt-on mod conceivable, the JUN will make less, but it def does show the powerband holding on at higher RPM, which is fine, because I need 8K to take full advantage of 4.556 gearing. Heavier oil, like 5W50 or 10W50 is better for high RPM protection and oil pressure on track.

I'm going to do some real world testing against my friend's race cars, which we know exactly where they stand (because I raced all last year on 10W50, not 5W40 despite my dyno, so in reality I was racing with less WHP), and that will also be the real test, and probably next month I'll be scheduled for a side by side comparison of OE vs JUN to definitively have a verdict. For now, the JUN manifold didn't get a fair run....