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Old 08-03-2020, 06:04 PM   #155
weederr33
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You two are still bitching at each other?
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Series.Yellowbird - http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122135

MS, CSCS, TSAC-F, CPT
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Old 08-03-2020, 08:06 PM   #156
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No, I figured I would post that up so others would understand the dangers of chemicals and welding. I use to use brake cleaner to clean stuff before welding it then I ran across that article a few years ago. Pretty serious stuff.

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Old 08-03-2020, 09:22 PM   #157
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Here is the problem: I wanted the large tire in the rear look, and I wanted a deeper concave rim in the rear than the front, which means a different offset. There was limited sizes, so in the end the rear had slight poke and the front had slight tuck. If I would have gone square then I would have had large poke in the front.

Rear poke:



Front tuck:




Here is the fix:






The fronts were pretty straight forward. The rears required the parking brakes and the hub to be removed, so they each took an extra 10-15 minutes, but they weren't bad at all:





Poke is now equal (and minor). If I do some camber sometime in the future then they will be perfectly flush or tucked.


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Old 08-03-2020, 09:25 PM   #158
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Tires are ready and waiting for when I need them. I got them on Tirerack. Free shipping to my door. Came in like two to three days. $400 cheaper than getting them at Les Schwab, which is why I wanted to get them now and have them ready just in case. Michelin Pilot Sport 4S:

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Old 09-19-2020, 12:41 PM   #159
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I’m running a 75mm pulley now (1 bar boost), and I finally put on the new tires last week. The combination of more grip and more power proved to be a big bump. These Michelin PS4s are magical. I’m surprised my Exedy Stage 1 clutch is still holding the power. I’m hoping the clutch will last until the next gen 86 comes out. I’m hoping the new trans will be beefed up and swap-able. We will see how long it lasts. I was happy to see Harrop came through with the CARB EO on the kit.
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Old 09-19-2020, 01:21 PM   #160
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Looks good!
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Old 03-05-2021, 11:04 PM   #161
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Beautiful car!
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There's a point at 7,000 RPM... where everything fades. The machine becomes weightless. Just disappears. And all that's left is a body moving through space and time. 7,000 RPM. That's where you meet it. You feel it coming. It creeps up on you, close in your ear. Asks you a question. The only question that matters. Who are you?
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Old 04-23-2021, 02:04 PM   #162
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The engine blew during a pull from an aggressive turn. Considering a K-swap. I'll post some pictures here later:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145040
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Old 04-24-2021, 12:01 PM   #163
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The carnage:
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Old 04-24-2021, 12:03 PM   #164
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More:
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Old 04-28-2021, 01:40 AM   #165
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Repost from the other thread:

I talked with Harrop, and I should be able to replace the broken wiring harness and replace the water pipes. I should be getting a quote on those pieces soon. I've had some preemptive interest, but I should be posting up some parts for sale. The plan is to disassemble the rest by next week and prep the used parts for sale.

I will be selling the following:

-Harrop Supercharger kit
-ECUTEK dongle and cable (tune and ECU license is not transferable unless my ECU is purchased I think...I might not need it...will have to look into this)
-85mm and 75mm pulleys and belts
-DT flex-fuel kit
-DT 4 bar map sensor
-DW 700cc injectors
-Ace 150 headers/overpipe combo wrapped in DEI titanium header wrap and intact O2 sensors

I should also have a bunch of stuff that should be sellable from the motor that wasn't destroyed or contaminated with oil shavings like I won't be selling the Forester XT oil cooler, but I can't guarantee all the shavings could be cleaned out of it, so it isn't worth the risk to a potential buyer, and I wouldn't sell something even if someone wanted to take the risk.

-Fumoto oil drain valve (should be cleanable)
-AC compressor
-Alternator
-Some engine components like I'm sure some valve covers, oil pan or timing covers might be cleanable and free of damage. We will see. I'm sure someone might need a random part or an extra oil pan to weld up for an oil return line on a turbo kit or something.
-Verus forged clutch fork (shouldn't be needed with the hydraulic conversion in the Kpower kit)
-Verus billet pivot (same as above)
-Clutch slave cylinder (same as above)
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Old 05-01-2021, 10:28 PM   #166
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I got a hoist and engine stand. I pulled the transmission and driveshaft today. I’ll be pulling out the engine tomorrow and mounting it. I might pull it apart too if I have time. I’m doing this all from a one car garage that is pretty packed, so it is slow going.

I believe I will have a few days next week to spruce up the parts that I will be selling, but I don’t anticipate anything going on the market until mid May.
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Old 05-03-2021, 02:47 AM   #167
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Engine coming out. Clutch doesn’t look too worn for being three years old at much more power than it is rated (Exedy Stage 1).
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Old 05-03-2021, 02:53 AM   #168
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Ok, what came first? The chicken or the egg? Here are some more pics...

Second cylinder threw the rod, and the roller rockers seem to be missing. Digging further I found the valves bent open. Then I found the number 2 piston rings peeking from the top? Could this have been the grinding sound I heard? I thought it was a spinnibg bearing, but maybe this was it. As you guys can see, the piston is destroyed from the bottom. I still need to pull apart the block, but here is what could have happened:

—My car wasn’t apart of the spring recall, but say something happened and the rockers were thrown, I feel like the spring would have closed the valves, and the rocker would ping-pong around the head, but it wouldn’t cause a problem.

—I drive aggressive, but the car wasn’t being driven too aggressive with the gas, more with the cornering. It had only been running for five to ten minutes from my garage that was around 55-65 degrees is a best guess, as I was heading to work. I wasn’t driving it long enough for ring expansion to happen from heat. Maybe it is possible there was some type of detonation event that cause the ring to overheat and pop out, which is why I heard a pop/bang and then grinding. Then the piston got stuck and the rod ripped itself from the piston, which caused it to spin freely, ripping through the motor and breaking.

—The other possibility is the rod snapped, and when the piston came down, it was struck by the rod, which broke the piston and caused it to impact the valves and twist in the sleeve, causing the rings to grind before the rod sent itself through the block.

Maybe the block will reveal more.
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