|
Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
09-21-2020, 12:45 PM | #29 | ||
Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Drives: Looking...
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 17
Thanks: 2
Thanked 3 Times in 1 Post
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Quote:
-Krawl |
||
09-22-2020, 04:48 PM | #30 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: Nevermorange FRS
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 4,160
Thanks: 755
Thanked 4,200 Times in 1,803 Posts
Mentioned: 77 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
|
If W2W racing - I'd have no problem with salvage title cars with the exception of frame damage and water damage. The discount can be significant and the damage may be irrelevant to how it will get used going forward.
As long a the frame is straight (straight car) and the electronics are all corroded (flood damage) then salvage title discounts are a great way to start a racecar build or dedicated track car build.
__________________
SCCA T4 - FRS
|
The Following User Says Thank You to rice_classic For This Useful Post: | CSG Mike (09-22-2020) |
09-22-2020, 05:01 PM | #31 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: 2013 Series 10 6MT FR-S
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
Posts: 5,520
Thanks: 1,998
Thanked 2,004 Times in 1,452 Posts
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
__________________
2013 Series 10 FRS #553
RCE T2's, SPC LCAs -4/2.6 camber JDL 4-2-1 EL, FP and OP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85 RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid ARC-8 17x9 SX2 GTs 245s/Koing 17x8 v730's 225's |
|
09-22-2020, 07:51 PM | #32 | |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Drives: Looking...
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 17
Thanks: 2
Thanked 3 Times in 1 Post
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Have another question before I jump in feet first. Most of you have been around this platform and have used it like we plan on... would you do it again or chose a different car? If so, what car? Was talking to a buddy and he is saying we should also look at the Genesis 2.0T, C5, WRX, and 2011-2014 5.0 Mustang's. What is your thoughts? Would you do the FRS/BRZ again? -Krawl |
|
09-22-2020, 10:14 PM | #33 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: 2013 Series 10 6MT FR-S
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
Posts: 5,520
Thanks: 1,998
Thanked 2,004 Times in 1,452 Posts
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
__________________
2013 Series 10 FRS #553
RCE T2's, SPC LCAs -4/2.6 camber JDL 4-2-1 EL, FP and OP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85 RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid ARC-8 17x9 SX2 GTs 245s/Koing 17x8 v730's 225's |
|
09-22-2020, 11:07 PM | #34 | |
ProCrastinationConsultant
Join Date: Sep 2013
Drives: '14 Ranger, '18 Tacoma 4Dr LB
Location: chicago-ish
Posts: 11,326
Thanks: 35,214
Thanked 13,661 Times in 6,778 Posts
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
https://www.scca.com/pages/solo-archives
__________________
"The time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time"
|
|
09-23-2020, 01:07 PM | #35 | |
-
Join Date: Nov 2012
Drives: '13 FRS - STX
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 10,360
Thanks: 13,724
Thanked 9,470 Times in 4,993 Posts
Mentioned: 94 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Might as well throw E36/E46 M3 into the above list as well. Keeping the initial purchase price <$15k the chassis I'd consider instead are MR2's, Boxsters, Miatas, RX8. All of those are harder to add power then the 86 and are older and less practical with the exception of the RX8 which I would probably want to engine swap if I was dedicated to the chassis enough which bleh not worth the effort. I've only got one vehicle, it's my DD, FRS is good compromise no ragerts. 8th gen Civic Si or an Acura (double wishbone ftw) might make sense though, easy to turbo the K motor add an LSD aero suspension and go party. |
|
10-02-2020, 09:44 PM | #36 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Drives: Looking...
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 17
Thanks: 2
Thanked 3 Times in 1 Post
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Well, looking at one tomorrow. 2013 Manual BRZ. Salvage title but the guy has had it 3 years. Bought it from the person that had the accident and says it has zero issues. Good price as well at well under 10k. It has 86k on the odometer.
So, if this goes through, I will have roughly 7k to play with. I need to do the coil pack and harness along with a oil cooler. I want to swap the sets and add a cage and harness. Any recommendations on a cage? What should I focus on next? I will do some cosmetic stuff off the bat but what about brakes? Or is there something else in the engine I need to address? -Krawl |
10-02-2020, 09:49 PM | #37 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Drives: 2013 Series 10 6MT FR-S
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
Posts: 5,520
Thanks: 1,998
Thanked 2,004 Times in 1,452 Posts
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Quote:
Here is the mods I would do Oil cooler New fluids all around including did and trans New brake pads and rotors(centric blanks) Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk
__________________
2013 Series 10 FRS #553
RCE T2's, SPC LCAs -4/2.6 camber JDL 4-2-1 EL, FP and OP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85 RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid ARC-8 17x9 SX2 GTs 245s/Koing 17x8 v730's 225's |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to jflogerzi For This Useful Post: | Racecomp Engineering (10-05-2020) |
10-05-2020, 11:03 AM | #38 |
Proper brake pads, fluids, rotors if needed, tires if needed, durability mods (coil packs + oil cooler), and a VERY thorough inspection to check bushings and ball joints etc. is where to start. That should take up most of your time and money right now.
See if you can find a reputable local builder for a cage + seats, but the priority is getting the car in good shape. - Andrew |
|
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Racecomp Engineering For This Useful Post: |
10-05-2020, 03:15 PM | #39 |
BoostedBRZ
Join Date: Mar 2014
Drives: Turbo BRZ
Location: IL
Posts: 689
Thanks: 171
Thanked 258 Times in 190 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
hey, sorry for the late reply, i'm not too much on the forums anymore.
to answer your question about tracking the car and general questions... 400whp is basically, imo, the upper most limit i would do. be prepared for blowing your motor. adding boost to these things seem to be a hit or miss. 1. get yourself a great tuner. 2. get yourself great cooling solution (oil cooler, possibly upgraded radiator, but not 100% necessary). 3. look for 2015+ seems like the pre 2015 coilpacks are shitty and tend to go out (i've had this issue). My car is a 2014. i had it kraftwerks supercharged and it was the biggest piece of shit I've ever had in my life. Sorry that i'm being blunt but it's true. If i had to supercharge my car, I would go with jackson racing. not trying to throw shade, but I tracked it with that supercharger and their kit is just straight garbage and customer service is not any better. Save yourself the hassle and avoid that kit. if I could do it all over again, I would have went straight for turbo. better in every single possible way. easier to change boost level. don't have to worry about extra belts. better overall compressor efficiency. I have a jdl turbo kit running a GTX2860r with flex fuel. I'm at about 337whp and 260wtq on dyno tuned by HRI tuning. the only other thing that I could recommend is that SMOOTH INPUTS as a driver this will greatly reduce the drivetrain shock/stress that you put on the car. I was a noob driver back then (obviously will always still be learning to be a better driver) when I was supercharged and drove the car like shit. happy to chat over IG if you are interested in more info and that goes for anybody. feel free to follow me @Pete.lete and DM me.
__________________
|
The Following User Says Thank You to pgranberg11 For This Useful Post: | Krawl (10-05-2020) |
10-05-2020, 07:39 PM | #40 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Drives: Looking...
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 17
Thanks: 2
Thanked 3 Times in 1 Post
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
So... we bought it. He came down further on the price. Now we have a starting point! Cosmetically, needs some work but that is okay. Mechanical, it seems in good shape to stat with.
It will need front and rear bumpers. I dont want to go wide body or anything. I assume the rear just needs to go back stock but what about the front? Is the OE the lightest option? I am not seeing to many non-wide body bumpers. Am I just missing something? Oil cooler seems to be at the top of the list. What is the recommended one? I am good friends with Griffin Radiator. I need to text them and see if they have a radiator for the BRZ or if they want to custom build one. Guessing cooling is a big issue on these? What about a carbon fiber hood with vents? It could use a new hood to... and trunk... and maybe fenders. Lol. Thinking carbon there? @Racecomp Engineering... you guys seem like the go to on suspension questions. I am about to pull the trigger on a set of front and rear while line poly bushings. What is a good set of track/street-ish adjustable coilovers? As for the cage, thinking of building one or maybe doing the Cusco or Autopower route. Any opinions on the two? Last... brakes. Is a BBK needed or is just upgrading to a good pad and a nice rotor (suggestions?) the way to go? And yes, planning on swapping over all the fluids. More than likely AMSOIL. -Krawl |
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Krawl For This Useful Post: |
10-05-2020, 09:15 PM | #41 | ||
Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Drives: 2022 GR86 (was 2013 BRZ)
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains, CA
Posts: 77
Thanks: 157
Thanked 61 Times in 34 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Congrats! These cars are addicting.
Oil Cooler: Jackson Racing or Greddy OEM radiator is plenty for NA. Hood vents help keep things cool. OEM hood is super light aluminum already. OEM bumpers are the lightest. Stock suspension setup is a ton of fun, but you'll want camber bolts in the front to max out camber. I run 0 toe front and back. If you want more stability, add a tad for rear toe in. If you want faster turn in, ad a tad of front toe out. Try out the stock suspension before you upgrade. It's likely you'll need a couple dozen trackdays before you'll get close to the limits with stock suspension. If you go for aftermarket suspension, you'll likely want adjustable rear lower control arms, and front camber plates. A common starting point is -3.5F/-2.5R camber and 0 toe, and don't go too low. Good pads and cheap plain centric rotors are sufficient for NA. Quote:
Quote:
__________________
|
||
10-06-2020, 07:46 PM | #42 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Drives: Looking...
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 17
Thanks: 2
Thanked 3 Times in 1 Post
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
|
Looked at the Greddy cooler. I like it. Also looked at the APR brake cooling system. Like that idea as well.
I need to check the calipers to see what kind of shape they are in as well as the rotors. I guess at some point I need to do a build thread as well! -Krawl |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
BPU questions about what to get!! | newports | Engine, Exhaust, Transmission | 39 | 07-18-2014 06:15 PM |
Wax Sealant Pad Questions / Care Questions | l0aded | Cosmetic Maintenance (Wash, Wax, Detailing, Body Repairs) | 3 | 03-25-2014 11:19 AM |
Some questions on my new car | Moe | AFRICA | 66 | 02-01-2014 08:55 AM |
E85 questions | Grishbok | Engine, Exhaust, Transmission | 17 | 08-08-2012 10:49 PM |