Irace86.2.0's KPower Turbo K24 Swap

[Capt Spaulding]

You could have it delivered to my house in South Texas. I'm home most days. I'll take care of it for you. Even send you pics.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Capt Spaulding

You could have it delivered to my house in South Texas. I'm home most days. I'll take care of it for you. Even send you pics.

The packages can’t be rerouted, so it is physically and mentally beyond FedEx’s abilities.

[Irace86.2.0]

Silver Lining: Kpower stepped up and called FedEX, and they requested that the packages be delivered to a FedEx store location near me, and they will be doing that, so that is good. We will see if FedEx can manage this.

[Irace86.2.0]

I drove to the Windsor terminal/hub to pick up two packages after receiving a phone call. The other one that was suppose to be delivered today says it is ready for pickup in Windsor, which is odd because they don't have it, and it said it was out for delivery, so maybe I can't catch a break. Maybe when Kpower called the driver diverted it for pickup, yet the office on 4th street doesn't have it and the Windsor doesn't have it, even though it says ready for pickup, so maybe it is still on the truck waiting to get dropped off at either location. It is just odd. FedEx is special. I believe the last box is the driveshaft.

On another note, the packages could have been wrapped a little better. My metal manifold gasket was a little bent up, and there were a few marks on things, but nothing seems to be obviously broken or cracked at the moment. The box for the AC lines was sunk in, but everything looks to be ok and not bent, but I need to give everything a closer inspection later.

[Irace86.2.0]

I picked up the driveshaft today, so I have all my boxes. I think all I need is the flywheel at this point.

I installed the oil pan, but before I did I drilled a hole for the dip stick. It was easy enough: unscrew the Allen bolts, line up the baffling piece with the oil pump and dipstick, mark spot to drill, use a step drill to drill a hole, deburr and sand smooth, clean, install and mark hole, repeat the hole on the other other baffle, and repeat, then vacuum, blow, rinse well. It worked well.

The installation instructions could have mentioned where each bolt went on the engine mounts, or could have mentioned that the AC bracket needs to be ground down to clear the oil pan.

The oil pan bolt seems positioned well. The instructions say to move everything to the left side of the engine bay. Is that facing the engine bay, so the left when looking at the engine bay, which is the right or passenger side of the car, or are they saying to move it to the true left/driver’s side? I guess I’ll figure it out when I install everything. Seems like moving it to the driver’s side would be bad for the oil pan drain.

[Ebush]

Looks like your drain bolts in the correct spot. They refer to the left side as the drive side. My engine is pushed as far as possible to the driver side and also as far back as possible. If I didn’t push it back all the way my drain bolt may have cleared but then the sway bar would be hitting the flywheel.

Were there instructions somewhere that I missed on drilling a hole for the dipstick? What did the area look like before drilling that hole? Been wondering if my dipstick is even going down into the pan or just bending to the side. After about a minute of playing with it I’m
Able to get it seated.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Ebush

Looks like your drain bolts in the correct spot. They refer to the left side as the drive side. My engine is pushed as far as possible to the driver side and also as far back as possible. If I didn’t push it back all the way my drain bolt may have cleared but then the sway bar would be hitting the flywheel.

Were there instructions somewhere that I missed on drilling a hole for the dipstick? What did the area look like before drilling that hole? Been wondering if my dipstick is even going down into the pan or just bending to the side. After about a minute of playing with it I’m
Able to get it seated.

No instructions. That was all me after noticing my dipstick was curling like others had mentioned. It wiggles into the hole fairly easy now. I drilled two holes. One was through the top piece that was bolted down. The second was through the lip of the piece that the top piece bolts into, which is welded, so I couldn’t remove it to drill it. I suppose someone could drill them both and then remove the top piece to deburr and clean things up, but I figured there would be less of a mess if I removed the top baffle first.

[Ebush]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

No instructions. That was all me after noticing my dipstick was curling like others had mentioned. It wiggles into the hole fairly easy now. I drilled two holes. One was through the top piece that was bolted down. The second was through the lip of the piece that the top piece bolts into, which is welded, so I couldn’t remove it to drill it. I suppose someone could drill them both and then remove the top piece to deburr and clean things up, but I figured there would be less of a mess if I removed the top baffle first.

Oh ok, I never test fit my dipstick until after the engine was in the car. And I don’t think anyone had mentioned a dipstick issue until after mine was in the car and then I realized I had the issue too. I may eventually get a cleaner looking dipstick from somewhere like ktuned, I believe they have a round dipstick rather than the flat oem style. Maybe the ktuned will snake it’s way into the pan a little easier for me.

[hedtrip]

I guess the one good thing about not having my kit yet is I get to see what issues ppl are finding & fixing them before mine goes in. I'm taking notes so hopefully my install Video will make it easier for other ppl.

[Four_wheel_drifts]

Originally Posted by hedtrip

I guess the one good thing about not having my kit yet is I get to see what issues ppl are finding & fixing them before mine goes in. I'm taking notes so hopefully my install Video will make it easier for other ppl.

I know I am sounding too critical; I don’t mean to. But I hope kpower is taking notice of these issues and incorporating these as running production changes.

Customers shouldn’t have to modify the oil pan mounting flange to clear anything (AC bracket) or drill holes in it to allow the oil dip stick to function properly.

If we have the entire off season to casually do the swap, maybe it’s “fun” to make minor modifications to get everything just right.

But for production shops that will eventually do this for customers or for people like me that will likely do this the weekend before my first four day DE event, all these little things cost both money and time - both too precious to spend on a custom, $800 oil pan.

[ML]

Sorry if you already mentioned it but are you doing any modifications to the head for the turbo?

[Irace86.2.0]

https://www.fumotousa.com/f106sx.html

I ordered this. I will be hammering the shit out of my subframe to fit this if it doesn't clear. I do my own oil changes, but I am a Fumoto snob.



I was planning on installing the motor and then working on fabrication, but with the flywheel coming soon, I think I'll just wait and do more prep work.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by ML

Sorry if you already mentioned it but are you doing any modifications to the head for the turbo?

Not at this time. My plan was to do a stage 1 setup with E85 and low boost on the stock tranny, and then stage 2 is tranny swap with more boost and stage 3 is a built motor with higher boost, if I take it that far.

[ML]

4piston is doing a Black Friday sale on cnc heads and cams so kinda tempting me.