Wheel stud/lug nuts issues: need recommendations

[Viper8]

@TMF, thanks for the good info

[steverife]

Originally Posted by TMF

I actually ended up getting the H&R 5mm spacer kit, which comes with 5mm longer wheel studs (they looks very similar to OEM). I don't run spacers and I also did not want to have to take the hubs off to replace the wheel studs (not necessary if they are only 5mm longer).

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/h-r-...l#.XREEhOtKiUk

I've been running these wheel studs along with the aforementioned closed-end Gorilla lug nuts for the last year, and I still hammer them off with the impact driver, and back on (gently) with the impact, torque to 90 ft-lbs, and I've had zero issues (and I've swapped wheels countless times). They thread just as smooth as day 1. I do clean up the threads occasionally with a 3M abbrasive pad, which helps.

FYI on the ARP's: there are 3 different lengths. I bought part #100-7728 because of the length, 1.95", which I thought should be slightly longer than stock. When I received the wheel studs, they are slightly longer than stock, however the threaded portion of this ARP stud ends at exactly the same length as the stock wheel stud. If you're looking for stock length replacements, these are the right length. If you want longer, you'll have to get the super long ones 2.535", part #100-7729.

I've never bought a spacer kit and the images confuse me.

I would expect to receive nothing more than 20 studs and 4 actual 5mm spacers. Is that not the case?

[TMF]

Originally Posted by steverife

I've never bought a spacer kit and the images confuse me.

I would expect to receive nothing more than 20 studs and 4 actual 5mm spacers. Is that not the case?

The image on their website is definitely confusing. When you order the 5mm kit, it is for two hubs/wheels, so you get a total of 10 wheel studs and 2 5mm spacers. To do all 4 corners, you will need to buy 2 kits.

Some of the larger spacer kits are the bolt-on spacer type, which is why I think those other spacers are in the photo.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Viper8

Glad I ran into this...

Tried taking off a rear wheel yesterday to prep for a track day, and while unscrewing two lugs, they started to cross thread. I tightened them back up for the time being but am pretty sure they're going to snap their studs trying to get them off. Annoying because I'm pretty careful on install/removal so this sort of thing doesn't happen.

From what everyone has said, I'm going to go with ARP studs.

ARP studs, good open ended lugnuts.

Shameless plug.

https://www.counterspacegarage.com/c...ugnuts-m12x125

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

ARP studs, good open ended lugnuts.

Shameless plug.

https://www.counterspacegarage.com/c...ugnuts-m12x125

At $9.75/nut, they better add +5whp!

[ZionsWrath]

What's wrong with SR48? Mine worked fine and are definitely not made of aluminium.

My 3/8" Milwaukee fuel started losing power after a year and started to suck at removing/installing lugs. I use the half inch with a torque stick now.

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

I use the half inch with a torque stick now.

Since we change wheels so damn often at the track, I've been thinking about getting a 80 or 90 ft/lb torque stick to use with my 1/2" milwaukee impact. What torque stick do you use?

I was thinking about buying a kit like this https://www.amazon.com/Astro-78810-1...gateway&sr=8-3


edit: also want to add that I've been using/racing on the SR48s all year, they're steel. Wheels have probably been on/off the car ~100 times this year. They're a little worse for wear, but I'm abusive to my lugnuts.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Since we change wheels so damn often at the track, I've been thinking about getting a 80 or 90 ft/lb torque stick to use with my 1/2" milwaukee impact. What torque stick do you use?

I was thinking about buying a kit like this https://www.amazon.com/Astro-78810-1...gateway&sr=8-3


edit: also want to add that I've been using/racing on the SR48s all year, they're steel. Wheels have probably been on/off the car ~100 times this year. They're a little worse for wear, but I'm abusive to my lugnuts.

Torque sticks will still over-torque with enough ugga duggas. Use a high speed low torque impact like a Craftsman C3, and you can tap 5-6 times and still be barely 40lb/ft. Great for breaking and removing, and zipping on, but still leave room to tighten by hand.

[TMF]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

What's wrong with SR48? Mine worked fine and are definitely not made of aluminium.

My 3/8" Milwaukee fuel started losing power after a year and started to suck at removing/installing lugs. I use the half inch with a torque stick now.

Uh, that's not right with the Milwaukee... I'd file a warranty claim. I used my 3/8 impact for a couple years with no degradation in performance. Sold it to a friend and it's still working great.

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Since we change wheels so damn often at the track, I've been thinking about getting a 80 or 90 ft/lb torque stick to use with my 1/2" milwaukee impact. What torque stick do you use?

I was thinking about buying a kit like this https://www.amazon.com/Astro-78810-1...gateway&sr=8-3


edit: also want to add that I've been using/racing on the SR48s all year, they're steel. Wheels have probably been on/off the car ~100 times this year. They're a little worse for wear, but I'm abusive to my lugnuts.

For a racing application, I'd still use a torque wrench to get the right torque. It doesn't take that much longer and is way more accurate. Unless you have a pit crew and are going for F1-style fast pit stops... Then it's a different ballgame lol.

I have a Milwaukee 1/2 mid-torque. I can hammer away in setting 1 without torquing past 90 ft-lbs (I use a torque wrench as a the final step). I've become an inpatient rebel though and tighten with setting 2 now... Just don't hammer it for long, and it will still be under 90 ft-lbs.

[rice_classic]

I was never planning on replacing the torque wrench for final torque - unless the circumstances necessitated it. However I wanted to zip on my lugs with my big impact without worrying about over-torque and without the need the use a 3/8ths gun. Always looking to simplify how I do things at the track.

The other scenario is the threat of rain before a race, with a torque stick I could be strapped in the car with it still up on jacks while we wait until the last possible second to put on rains or drys. When you're up against the clock like that, a crew guy with a 90 ft/lb torque stick on a big gun could come in handy. Or during enduros when you have to change a tire(s) in hot pits during a pit stop... SUPER handy in that scenario!