WHAT DID YOU DO TO YOUR FRS TODAY?

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

Installed one of these DSS alu driveshafts. Got it used locally for a good price and thought why not. This is the only pic I have of the thing

Just want to follow up on my post here. The driveshaft made the drivetrain silky smooth. There's no more of that hop when coasting in first gear, all the clunk-clunking is gone, the shifting is sooo nice now, and the power transfer is much more direct. It's worth it for the extra comfort alone.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

Just want to follow up on my post here. The driveshaft made the drivetrain silky smooth. There's no more of that hop when coasting in first gear, all the clunk-clunking is gone, the shifting is sooo nice now, and the power transfer is much more direct. It's worth it for the extra comfort alone.

This was my opinion. I've of my favorite modifications

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[humfrz]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

Just want to follow up on my post here. The driveshaft made the drivetrain silky smooth. There's no more of that hop when coasting in first gear, all the clunk-clunking is gone, the shifting is sooo nice now, and the power transfer is much more direct. It's worth it for the extra comfort alone.

Your old driveshaft must have been really screwed up -

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Your old driveshaft must have been really screwed up -

It's because the stock drive shaft is 2 piece instead of 1. I noticed the exact same things when I switched. I bought it because of the weight but I'd get it just for the driving feel/comfort of I was doing it again

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[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

It's because the stock drive shaft is 2 piece instead of 1. I noticed the exact same things when I switched. I bought it because of the weight but I'd get it just for the driving feel/comfort of I was doing it again

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Well, OK, thanks for explaining that. I wonder why they put a two piece driveshaft in the car to start with? -

I reckon my OEM driveshaft isn't all that bad. It doesn't do all these things:

"There's no more of that hop when coasting in first gear, all the clunk-clunking is gone, the shifting is sooo nice now, and the power transfer is much more direct."

[Wally86]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Well, OK, thanks for explaining that. I wonder why they put a two piece driveshaft in the car to start with? -

I reckon my OEM driveshaft isn't all that bad. It doesn't do all these things:

"There's no more of that hop when coasting in first gear, all the clunk-clunking is gone, the shifting is sooo nice now, and the power transfer is much more direct."

My guess is to make it easier to lift the motor a bit without having to disconnect it?

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Originally Posted by humfrz

I reckon my OEM driveshaft isn't all that bad. It doesn't do all these things:

"There's no more of that hop when coasting in first gear, all the clunk-clunking is gone, the shifting is sooo nice now, and the power transfer is much more direct."

Maybe cause you've driven some real clunkers before, this one seems smooth to you

Also could be that all the various inserts and bushings I have really magnify all the audible umm... features.

[Ashikabi]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Well, OK, thanks for explaining that. I wonder why they put a two piece driveshaft in the car to start with? -



I reckon my OEM driveshaft isn't all that bad. It doesn't do all these things:



"There's no more of that hop when coasting in first gear, all the clunk-clunking is gone, the shifting is sooo nice now, and the power transfer is much more direct."

Perhaps they use the 2 piece to reduce Ujoint angles for increased service life. I don't know for sure their reasoning but I'm quite certain I know I felt much more jerking in the drive train before I replaced the drive shaft. Never under consistent load. Just at times when you're coasting or accelerating from a stop and the lash on the drive shaft had an opportunity to loosen then tighten again (which causes the jarring)

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[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Well, OK, thanks for explaining that. I wonder why they put a two piece driveshaft in the car to start with? -

I reckon my OEM driveshaft isn't all that bad. It doesn't do all these things:

"There's no more of that hop when coasting in first gear, all the clunk-clunking is gone, the shifting is sooo nice now, and the power transfer is much more direct."

Mine either.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

Maybe cause you've driven some real clunkers before, this one seems smooth to you

Also could be that all the various inserts and bushings I have really magnify all the audible umm... features.

You callen ma old 1937 Chevrolet pickup a clunker? -

Well, of course any driveline sounds will be transmitted to the cabin, if you weld all the parts of the drivetrain to the body of the car -

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Originally Posted by humfrz

You callen ma old 1937 Chevrolet pickup a clunker? -

Well, of course any driveline sounds will be transmitted to the cabin, if you weld all the parts of the drivetrain to the body of the car -

Yep I've done that to meself, first one to admit it. But now I bought the thing to fix the problem I created

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

Yep I've done that to meself, first one to admit it. But now I bought the thing to fix the problem I created

[RToyo86]

Got a Perrin inlet tube on sale 20% off.
Wanted black but would have needed to special order.

Happy to be rid of all the sound generator crap.

[Kiske]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Well, OK, thanks for explaining that. I wonder why they put a two piece driveshaft in the car to start with? -

I reckon my OEM driveshaft isn't all that bad. It doesn't do all these things

There are many reasons for a piece.

1. Less chance of bending/flexing at high-rpms.
2. The critical speed (failure) limit is greatly reduced.
3. Less vibration when not optimal condition... dirty/offroading due to the bushing/carrier assembly.
4. #1 means they can have tighter tolerances of the tunnel so lower floor and more passenger room.
5. Having a joint midway means less of the driveshaft (only the rear 1/2) is usually hanging lower to meet the rear diff, meaning more clearance to the road.
6. Less tubing length means they can make the diameter smaller. With a long 1 piece aluminum drive shaft you need to increase the diameter to increase the strength.



With 1 piece you get all the things enthusiast want. A more direct feeling and faster response due to lighter rotating parts. The mod is very comparable pros and cons list-wise to doing a lightweight flywheel or stiffer bushings and engine mounts. Not something the everyday consumer and OEM want or notice. If your the type that can notice the effects of lightened rotating mass then this is your kind of mod.

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

It's because the stock drive shaft is 2 piece instead of 1. I noticed the exact same things when I switched. I bought it because of the weight but I'd get it just for the driving feel/comfort of I was doing it again

If you ever get the chance to swing it their carbon drive shaft is another step up as it is even lighter with even less vibrations.