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Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires.


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Old 02-16-2019, 01:06 AM   #4019
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Leonardo,

Just wanted to let you know wheels are home! I've got almost everything except for the lug nuts. You used the longest ARP studs and 12/15mm spacers. What type of lugs you use? Close or open ended? I'd like to use close ended lugs cause I don't want the studs tip to show but I don't know what size I should use.
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Old 02-16-2019, 10:49 AM   #4020
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Leonardo,

Just wanted to let you know wheels are home! I've got almost everything except for the lug nuts. You used the longest ARP studs and 12/15mm spacers. What type of lugs you use? Close or open ended? I'd like to use close ended lugs cause I don't want the studs tip to show but I don't know what size I should use.
you can use close ended there arent really any benefits to using open ended lug nuts unless you want them for aesthetic reasons. The size you need is M12x1.25
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Old 02-16-2019, 10:58 AM   #4021
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open ended ones tend to be lighter and with longer threaded part for nut of similar height, and also more universal regarding compatible stud length, as allows long studs to go through.
closed ended ones prevent dust buildup, lessen rust and such.
For tracked car with frequent wheel changes i'd probably get open ended ones, for mostly daily driven car - closed ended ones .. or wait, keep using OE lugnuts which are such and you get free set of with car
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Old 02-16-2019, 12:30 PM   #4022
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Ok, my bad I was thinking of 50mm extended in the rear. If your extended studs are OEM length (or only 5mm longer) you can install them without removing the rear hub.


Here they are! 20mm spacers, 18x8 sparcos assetto gara +48mm with 225/40/18 square pirelli p7 all seasons. Camber bolts up front with swapped lower bolt for about 1.5 camber


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Old 02-16-2019, 06:50 PM   #4023
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Here they are! 20mm spacers, 18x8 sparcos assetto gara +48mm with 225/40/18 square pirelli p7 all seasons. Camber bolts up front with swapped lower bolt for about 1.5 camber


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Looks great!
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Old 02-19-2019, 03:59 PM   #4024
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Looks great!


Too bad two of them ended up being bent! Felt like a massage chair driving. Picked up these 5x100 18x8 48mm offset Drag DR-31s. They have 225/45/18 but I'll swap on my 225/40/18 eventually. Sad to let the sparcos go but it would be $250 to get em fixed and I only paid $275. Got this setup for $300 and they're very clean cosmetically (only some minor dings). A little rust on the inside of the wheel but I'll figure that out. Sad I had to ditch the spacers but my ball joints thank me! Anyways here they are!


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Old 02-19-2019, 04:07 PM   #4025
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Too bad two of them ended up being bent! Felt like a massage chair driving. Picked up these 5x100 18x8 48mm offset Drag DR-31s. They have 225/45/18 but I'll swap on my 225/40/18 eventually. Sad to let the sparcos go but it would be $250 to get em fixed and I only paid $275. Got this setup for $300 and they're very clean cosmetically (only some minor dings). A little rust on the inside of the wheel but I'll figure that out. Sad I had to ditch the spacers but my ball joints thank me! Anyways here they are!

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Sorry to hear about the sparco's. I bought bent wheels once. It's an expensive lesson. The new wheels look good though. 40 series tires will look better when you get them swapped on. Bronze looks good on your car!

The spacers don't fit?
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Old 02-19-2019, 04:19 PM   #4026
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Sorry to hear about the sparco's. I bought bent wheels once. It's an expensive lesson. The new wheels look good though. 40 series tires will look better when you get them swapped on. Bronze looks good on your car!



The spacers don't fit?


Thanks man! I loved the graphite but I feel this bronze will grow on me. The spacers were conversion spacers from 5x100 to 5x112. These are 5x100 so I'll just return the spacer


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Old 03-01-2019, 06:06 PM   #4027
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Just want to confirm

Everything else stock, I don't intend to lower the car.

18x8 with 38mm is flush fitment according to the stickies. 225 - 235 is recommended for 8 inches. I want 235/35 to preserve the total diameter. It seems like this is extremely difficult to do according to this thread (http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62118)

The chart says this fitment is fine, the flush entry in the sticky's fitment table is a guy who uses thicker tires than this (245). But is this from the perspective of someone who is prioritizing stance? As in, "it doesn't rub when I drive like a commuter" vs "its fine even under hard driving on non-ideal backroads"

The fitment calculator (fucking awesome tool / feat of coding) shows the smallest fender clearance as the springs move up and down (stock 2.5). Is this safe? It seems like the wheel would never be pushed outwards while the spring contracts, but is there some real-world condition that could cause this to happen?

I want the aesthetics of a bigger wheel and flush vertical alignment (not gonna stance the car or anything, just seems like a good cutoff for aesthetics) IF its not gonna come at a big cost to driveability. I know i can arrive at an answer via search, but I've done the basic groundwork can someone with experience just confirm/deny/tell me its iffy?

TLDR more rambles:
- The sticky has a link that compares 18 vs 17, and its .7 seconds slower on a 1:30 lap time, thats fine with me
- Other threads I've read state that the steering feel is not very negatively impacted, some conflicting reports on MPG. MPG is not an important factor and if its so minor that people are anecdotally arguing about it I'm fine with that
- Acceleration will go down, even if the wheel is lighter I'm upping the rotational inertia. Again, it seems like its a minor issue seeing as its .7 seconds total decrease
- Its compensated by the lower deform of low profile tires and higher grip

Is there something about doing this that is supposed to be obvious to me that I am missing? "You do realize that chart is made for stancers? If you actually care about driveability stick to 17s, its a huge drop off to 18s you fucktwat"

Last edited by Lav; 03-01-2019 at 06:17 PM.
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Old 03-02-2019, 08:57 AM   #4028
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Anyone know what the spring rate is for the Eibach pro kit is so I can input that number in the calculator? I'm running the springs with a 25 mm spacer. I want to put on a 245/35 18 tire on a set of 18x9.5 wheels. with +44 offset. I'm guessing by the calculator that the tire looks to hit the fender while riding up and down on the shock?
Looks like, putting on smaller spacers, around 5-8 mm spacers seems to clear it per the picture. Or would the set up I have now work. I'm at work so I can't add a picture now But I'll add one later from the fitment calculator. Thanks
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Old 03-02-2019, 02:01 PM   #4029
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Originally Posted by Lav View Post
Everything else stock, I don't intend to lower the car.

18x8 with 38mm is flush fitment according to the stickies. 225 - 235 is recommended for 8 inches. I want 235/35 to preserve the total diameter. It seems like this is extremely difficult to do according to this thread (http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62118)

The chart says this fitment is fine, the flush entry in the sticky's fitment table is a guy who uses thicker tires than this (245). But is this from the perspective of someone who is prioritizing stance? As in, "it doesn't rub when I drive like a commuter" vs "its fine even under hard driving on non-ideal backroads"

The fitment calculator (fucking awesome tool / feat of coding) shows the smallest fender clearance as the springs move up and down (stock 2.5). Is this safe? It seems like the wheel would never be pushed outwards while the spring contracts, but is there some real-world condition that could cause this to happen?

I want the aesthetics of a bigger wheel and flush vertical alignment (not gonna stance the car or anything, just seems like a good cutoff for aesthetics) IF its not gonna come at a big cost to driveability. I know i can arrive at an answer via search, but I've done the basic groundwork can someone with experience just confirm/deny/tell me its iffy?

TLDR more rambles:
- The sticky has a link that compares 18 vs 17, and its .7 seconds slower on a 1:30 lap time, thats fine with me
- Other threads I've read state that the steering feel is not very negatively impacted, some conflicting reports on MPG. MPG is not an important factor and if its so minor that people are anecdotally arguing about it I'm fine with that
- Acceleration will go down, even if the wheel is lighter I'm upping the rotational inertia. Again, it seems like its a minor issue seeing as its .7 seconds total decrease
- Its compensated by the lower deform of low profile tires and higher grip

Is there something about doing this that is supposed to be obvious to me that I am missing? "You do realize that chart is made for stancers? If you actually care about driveability stick to 17s, its a huge drop off to 18s you fucktwat"

um...

IMO, You want a 225/40 not 235/35 on a 18x8. Ive run 18x8s with a +45, +35, and +20 offset. +38 is pretty flush. (+35 is generally considered flush on oem suspension) I ran a 245/35 on an 18x8, it was much too wide. A 235/40 could work though.

I would NEVER suggest a setup that rubs. I do like a flush look with negative camber. Negative camber is a good thing up to a certain amount ( Like NOS at some level - A little makes you faster, but to much slows you down BOOM) Track guys run -3 to -3.8 front and -1.8 to -2.6 rear camber.

So calling all cambered setups "stance" is not totally accurate.

Everyone here has their own ideas of what looks good to them too. I read through wheel gallery looking at wheel, tire, suspension, and camber specs to figure out what I wanted.

Every tire is a compromise. Get one thats the best compromise for your style of driving. Meaning, If you drive all year in the rain, maybe you want AS tires. Or, if you AutoX all the time, maybe you want some 200 utqg tires. Or if you are like me and your car is a weekend summer car, I got max performance summer street tires. I had MPSS, got hankooks, and will be getting Michelin MPS4S next...


As the spring compresses on a Mac strut config, the wheel is slightly pulled inwards. like 2mm, so not much. Additionally, lowering the car will add negative camber in the rear (possibly not evenly), but not the front.

Regarding steering feel: I had 215 all around, then 225, then 245. Then went 225/245 stagger, then went to a 215/245 stagger. Now back to 245 square (on 9" square) with -2.5 and -3 camber.

The worst feel was 245/35 on an 8" wheel with no camber.

Next worse was a 215 front and 245 rear. The front wasnt gripping at the same level. I never understeered, but it wasnt good feeling.

Id 100% suggest a 215 or 225 on an 8" wheel for steering feel.

17" wheels are lighter wheight (generally) than 18". 17" tires are cheaper. 17" and 18" look great on our car, its really the look that you like that you should go with. The difference in driving will be minimal for DD. The stock 17x7 is 20.6lbs. So getting a lighter weight wheel is fairly easy. ( my 18x9" is 20.0lbs each)


If you are planning on not lowering, 18x8 +38 with 225/40 will look great. The slightly taller tire (25.1" vs. 24.6" stock) will raise your car 0.25 inch and fill up the wheel well nicely.





I must be old... FUC%$#@ isn't in my vocab.... lol
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Old 03-02-2019, 02:13 PM   #4030
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Anyone know what the spring rate is for the Eibach pro kit is so I can input that number in the calculator? I'm running the springs with a 25 mm spacer. I want to put on a 245/35 18 tire on a set of 18x9.5 wheels. with +44 offset. I'm guessing by the calculator that the tire looks to hit the fender while riding up and down on the shock?
Looks like, putting on smaller spacers, around 5-8 mm spacers seems to clear it per the picture. Or would the set up I have now work. I'm at work so I can't add a picture now But I'll add one later from the fitment calculator. Thanks
You would need different suspension and narrower tires to make a 18x9.5 +44 wheel and a 25mm spacer work. that makes it essentially a +19 wheel. +35 will work with drop springs, as long as you have a 235/40 or narrower front tire. Most guys run coils with 18x9.5 wheels. Read through the Meaty Tire thread... Tons if good info.
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Old 03-02-2019, 02:21 PM   #4031
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I think my next step is to go a 5 mm or 10 mm spacer with the 235/40 tire on the front and see if that will clear the suspension and fender, If not i'll have to go the coi lover route then. I already have the tire, so lets hope it just squeaks by.
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Old 03-02-2019, 05:05 PM   #4032
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I think my next step is to go a 5 mm or 10 mm spacer with the 235/40 tire on the front and see if that will clear the suspension and fender, If not i'll have to go the coi lover route then. I already have the tire, so lets hope it just squeaks by.
They say a 18x9.5 +38 only clears by 1mm or 2mm.

Id go with at least an 8mm hubcentric spacer. 10mm IMO is better...

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