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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ


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Old 10-02-2012, 08:21 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by bluesubie View Post
In addition to the moly, this shows the factory fill zinc is higher than a typical 0W-20. The phosphorus is also slightly above typical GF5 levels. I would keep this stuff in for at least 3,750 miles since it's more robust than most 0W-20's unless someone is switching to Red Line or Motul 300V.

-Dennis
Motul 300V is what I put in.

I should be covered quite well without all the excess metal floating around still. In fact, here's what went in/on the car during the change (Well, not all 6 liters, but about 5-ish filled it to level):

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Old 10-02-2012, 09:09 PM   #30
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really only 5? I put in 5.5 then added a bit more after running the engine. easily the 5.8 in the manual.

I tried finding something reliable on the factory oil but I can't find anything. If only some of those peeps doing oil changes after a few hundred miles would do a UOA ...cough, cough, hint hint... whoever reads that :P

Couple days and I should get an email from Blackstone, luckily I'm close so shipping is quick.
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:40 AM   #31
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It's not that easy to tell since I used around a little more than half of the 2-liter can on the last one. so it's more than 5 quarts for sure. 2 liters = 2.11338 quarts. So 5 liters = 5.28344 and I put in a little more than 5. So it's probably pretty close to 5.5 quarts.
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:39 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordtakuban View Post
Motul 300V is what I put in.

I should be covered quite well without all the excess metal floating around still. In fact, here's what went in/on the car during the change (Well, not all 6 liters, but about 5-ish filled it to level):

Motul 300V is great stuff. We use Motul Break-in oil then straight to 300V in our race engines with great results.
We have noticed overall lower engine temps with this oil too.
Keep in mind that this is a Racing oil and lacks detergents.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:03 AM   #33
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Small request from you folks using Blackstone.. Would you mind asking them what their thoughts are on running 5w30 or even 10w30 on our engines?

I'm not quite liking this water thin oil we're using and willing to sacrifice some mpg for better protection.
Yea, this water-thin 0W-20 oil seems way too.. watery! After draining my oil, I poured the oil out of the drain pan into a larger container for recycling.. The oil at the bottom of my plastic drain pan poured right off too!

Usually with a thicker oil, there's still a thin layer of oil slowly draining off the bottom of the pan, but with this 0W-20, almost all of it drains off completely really quick.

Not sure if newer engines these days are made for this thinner kind of oil, but this 0W-20 just seems like it doesn't lubricate as well.?

I switched to 5W-30 now and might even go with 10W-30 in the future. Screw the 1-2% hit on MPG.. I'd rather have my engine better lubricated/protected.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:09 AM   #34
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Yea, this water-thin 0W-20 oil seems way too.. watery! After draining my oil, I poured the oil out of the drain pan into a larger container for recycling.. The oil at the bottom of my plastic drain pan poured right off too!

Usually with a thicker oil, there's still a thin layer of oil slowly draining off the bottom of the pan, but with this 0W-20, almost all of it drains off completely really quick.

Not sure if newer engines these days are made for this thinner kind of oil, but this 0W-20 just seems like it doesn't lubricate as well.?

I switched to 5W-30 now and might even go with 10W-30 in the future. Screw the 1-2% hit on MPG.. I'd rather have my engine better lubricated/protected.
The engine was built from the ground up and designed to use this 0w20 oil. Thicker oil could be starving parts of the engine of any lubrication.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:33 PM   #35
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The engine was built from the ground up and designed to use this 0w20 oil. Thicker oil could be starving parts of the engine of any lubrication.
Na, that's just a myth.. http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/5w20oil.htm

Besides, the Owner's Manual even states: "An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions..."

Also, these guys used Torco 10W-30 oil:
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:33 PM   #36
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Keep in mind that this is a Racing oil and lacks detergents.
Actually, 300V does have some detergents/dispersants for street use. This thread at bitog, discussing a 10k mile interval on the 0W-20, has a virgin oil analysis showing a decent amount of calcium and magnesium.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2619245

I understand that the new forumla coming out, Estercore, will have slightly reduced levels of detergents, but will still be able to be safely used on the street. The ester basestocks also have natural detergent abilities.

-Dennis
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:51 PM   #37
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Na, that's just a myth.. http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/5w20oil.htm

Besides, the Owner's Manual even states: "An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions..."

Also, these guys used Torco 10W-30 oil:
Instead of a link to an Amsoil dealer's opinion, how about some data showing that 0W-20 is not sufficient in BRZ/FRS applications.

-Dennis
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:55 PM   #38
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Na, that's just a myth.. http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/5w20oil.htm

Besides, the Owner's Manual even states: "An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions..."

Also, these guys used Torco 10W-30 oil:
Because under those conditions (ie: track) the oil will be at a higher temperature and thin out. At normal driving the 30 will be thicker. The oil pump puts out a known pressure at rpm, if you increase oil viscosity you decrease flow. At least that's how I see it in my head based on zero math or research
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:05 PM   #39
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I know this is on a tangent, but I just did my first oil & filter change this past week at 1950 miles. The factory oil looked quite dirty (was really black). Maybe it's because I do 95% bumper to bumper driving. For the refil I used Royal Purple 0w20 (please hold personal comments about this choice, I'm trying different oils and hopefully will find one that works for me through trial & error/advice/data/etc). I was quite surprised that the guys used all 6 qts of oil. I told the guys that other guys have reported that the car takes 5.3 qts in actuality rather than the stated 5.8 qts, but the car took all 6 qts so go figure.

In either case, the car has been running fairly smooth and good since. I have another 6 qts of the RP 0w20 left so I'll do another change with it probably around 7000 mile mark.

On another note, I purchaed 4 Subaru OEM filters at the dealership and received 4 bluish/purple filters (sorry don't have the #'s with me at work), but noticed that the OEM was a black one when I got to the shop. It fit and seems to be working, but did I get the correct filter? Or should I go raise hell at the dealership for selling me the wrong filters?
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:10 PM   #40
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I'm surprised your oil was that beat up. Mine looked fine at 4500 but I'm easily 80% highway miles, maybe higher. I've had two oil changes and both are between 5.8-6 qt.

They gave you the wrong filter. The BRZ has a specific filter no other Subaru uses anymore and is black. I doubt there is much difference but could have less filter area or a different spring bypass. The blues I get for the older subarus are much smaller diameter than the black for the brz.

Do a uoa when you change your rp!
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:14 PM   #41
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I'm surprised your oil was that beat up. Mine looked fine at 4500 but I'm easily 80% highway miles, maybe higher. I've had two oil changes and both are between 5.8-6 qt.

They gave you the wrong filter. The BRZ has a specific filter no other Subaru uses anymore and is black. I doubt there is much difference but could have less filter area or a different spring bypass. The blues I get for the older subarus are much smaller diameter than the black for the brz.

Do a uoa when you change your rp!
Ok, so you used the smaller diameter and a bit taller bluish purple filter too for your change? Now I feel a bit better about using that for my change.

Yeah, I might send my RP 0w20 to Blackstone when I get around to changing out the oil/fitler again. I had the guys install a Fumoto valve during the change and should make changes a breeze. Thanks for your reply. :happy0180:
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:17 PM   #42
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No, sorry I meant I use the black ones for the brz. I use the blue ones for my older STi.

I don't know any of the details around the black filter but my guess is the blue doesn't have as much filter media and shouldn't be used for long interval oil changes. The STi has a max of 3750.
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