P0016 on a 60k mile car

[rusty959]

This has been brought up many times before but it always seems to be cars that are somewhat new. My car is a June 2016 BRZ FBM Turbo was installed at around 35k, tuned by Delicious using ecutek, and I occasionally had an idle dip/stall issue. [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pceitERh9mA"]BRZ Turbo idle dip and stall - YouTube[/ame] is my car soon after the turbo install. We tuned it out some and increased the idle, still occasionally came back around. No CEL.
Fast forward to 60k miles, and I get the famed P0016 code. I've already been planning on going back to stock or selling the car. Did some basic research and decide I should swap out the OCVs while I have the front of the engine disassembled to see if the code moved. I decided on going back to stock, now have the turbo out, now that I can see the entire front of the engine, I'm noticing how close I am to taking out the timing cover and inspecting the cam sprocket. The damage seems like it should be visible based on this:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2649000

What I'm looking for is opinions on what this most likely is. If the only way to inspect the cam sprocket is take the timing cover off I figure I should go ahead and do that. I doubt it's an ECU issue like so many were based on the miles before an issue.

Other notes, I was at the upper end of oil life when I got the CEL, and barely drove it before parking it. Also seen some people suggest changing oil and seeing if it goes away. Unfortunately I did none of those things.

[SLVRSRFR]

I had P0018, which is the same code but on the other bank.

Switched OCV's; didn't fix the problem. Changed oil; didn't fix the problem.

The damage was to the cam sprocket assembly, which gave bad readings to the ECU and that eventually necessitated the ECU swap as well once it was discovered that my learning values were off.

The TSB's for this issue basically look like a waterfall. It basically goes "fix this. if that didn't work, now fix this. If that didn't work, NOW fix THIS..." etc. etc., and at the bottom of that waterfall, inevitably, is the ECU. So, while you may see damage to the sprocket and may change it out and assume this would solve it, the problem could still be stored in the ECU and could return eventually without the ECU also being changed.

I would say yes, if you're already going to be in there anyways, may as well try to check it out. I didn't have that luxury.

Do some reading in the CEL thread at the top of this forum as well; that was a valuable resource for me during my troubles, and you'll see a lot of my posts on there.

Good luck!

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by rusty959

What I'm looking for is opinions on what this most likely is. If the only way to inspect the cam sprocket is take the timing cover off I figure I should go ahead and do that. I doubt it's an ECU issue like so many were based on the miles before an issue.

I recommend holding off with the timing cover. Based on my experience, you will likely end up at least cleaning the mechanism or replacing it if that's not possible.

I helped a friend diagnose and attempt to repair his p0016. For the record, that was the only code thrown.

After verifying that we could control the other three servos with techstream, we decided to swap a couple solenoids hoping to see the code follow a bad one. While I had them out, I played a little with the plunger on the sprocket. I noticed as I pressed that it bottomed out with the head of the plunger about even with the body. Travel seemed kind of short given its function but I didn't think much about it. I was just tinkering.

Then, all of a sudden with a little crunch, the valve got past something that was blocking it. I told my friend that we may have fixed it right there.

It indeed turned out to be the issue but sadly it returned again the next day. We tried one more time to clear the valve and, after we put it back together, I exercised the valve by toggling it back and forth a bunch with techstream. It didn't last. He had to move out of town soon afterward so we didn't get to dig under the timing cover. That's as far as I got.

If I get the same issue (same root cause) in the future I've already decided to do a preemptive tear-down to inspect all the journals and blow whatever excess sealant shit I can out of all the oil galleys.

[rusty959]

Originally Posted by SLVRSRFR

I had P0018, which is the same code but on the other bank.

Switched OCV's; didn't fix the problem. Changed oil; didn't fix the problem.

The damage was to the cam sprocket assembly, which gave bad readings to the ECU and that eventually necessitated the ECU swap as well once it was discovered that my learning values were off.

I will try to dig through that post. Hopefully you didn't already answer this, but did you have a tune on your car? I'm hoping that my ecutek flashing will prevent the needed ecu swap. If I get to the point that I've replaced the sprocket and exhausted all other options, I'll probably just disable the code before I swap ECUs. Especially since I don't want to lose the license.

As you said Ultramaroon, I think I'm going to hold off on the timing cover. I realized that I was spending so much time researching possibilities that I could easily disassemble back to the point I'm at in the future. Would be easier right now without the radiator but not a big deal. I'm also trying to look through old logs to see if I can find anything useful. Unfortunately it seems like the useful parameters weren't enabled by default and I only have a single idle/revving log with more stuff enabled.

[SLVRSRFR]

Originally Posted by rusty959

I will try to dig through that post. Hopefully you didn't already answer this, but did you have a tune on your car? I'm hoping that my ecutek flashing will prevent the needed ecu swap. If I get to the point that I've replaced the sprocket and exhausted all other options, I'll probably just disable the code before I swap ECUs. Especially since I don't want to lose the license.

As you said Ultramaroon, I think I'm going to hold off on the timing cover. I realized that I was spending so much time researching possibilities that I could easily disassemble back to the point I'm at in the future. Would be easier right now without the radiator but not a big deal. I'm also trying to look through old logs to see if I can find anything useful. Unfortunately it seems like the useful parameters weren't enabled by default and I only have a single idle/revving log with more stuff enabled.

Nope; no tune. My drive-train is and was bone stock with the exception of a muffler delete.

Good luck!

[rusty959]

Pulled the oil control valves out to swap them between banks today. The plunger of the passenger's intake side (best I can tell the one that would fail from P0016, bank 1 sensor A cam sensor) didn't fall freely like the other 3 did. I'm hoping this means it is the OCV. Going to go ahead and snag a new one to throw in. Hope this fixes it.

[Ultramaroon]

Just checking in. Any progress?

[Respect BRZ]

Well I’m in the same boat as y’all.

Hello All, I know this problem I am having shouldn’t be due to the OTS tune I have (E85 STG2, or 93 Stg2). But if any of y’all could take a look at the log files I have and point me in the right direction. I will be eternally grateful to the master tech that you are… I keep getting code P0016 every time I run the car, Anyone want to help?

This just started happening the day after I ran the car very hard to get the new header wrap really hot to burn off the smell (like nothing below 3k for 20 min of driving.) I am running a 1320 UEL catless with 1320 OP and invidia strait front pipe on a copycat Q300 catback. FA-20 club CAI, LWFW and LW Pully set. OFT.

I too have more than 60k miles and was a bit long on my oil when the code started coming on.

I have come to the realization that the sensors are reading correctly I only have the OFT to log so I’ve been logging VVT intake and exhaust. Noticing the intake is all over the place, and exhaust barely moves and when it does it is intermittent too. Thinking the ocv is working but the variable sprocket is to blame.

Thing is is the code P0016 intake or exhaust on bank 1. I’ve seen both in different posts.


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[Ultramaroon]

It's intake. Link to manuals in my sig line.

[rusty959]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Just checking in. Any progress?

Just took it out for the first drive with the turbo kit and all off today. Fresh oil and all, swapped banks for both OCV's. The code came back, same bank as before.

I am going to try to make some more logs and see if I can decipher what my logs say. I can potentially get ahold of an oscope as well which I've seen used to do some diagnosis in the TSB. Really not excited about the prospect of pulling a cam.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by rusty959

Just took it out for the first drive with the turbo kit and all off today. Fresh oil and all, swapped banks for both OCV's. The code came back, same bank as before.

I am going to try to make some more logs and see if I can decipher what my logs say. I can potentially get ahold of an oscope as well which I've seen used to do some diagnosis in the TSB. Really not excited about the prospect of pulling a cam.

Tinker with that bank 1 intake sprocket. (valve body) Never mind the electronics because those issues would throw additional codes. Quickest way to prove it to yourself is with techstream and a j2534 device.

Sorry. I know it sucks.

[Jamestl]

Hey guys,

Just got the P0018 last night on the way home, was accelerating and then there was a loss of power (not all the way, just went into limp mode). I pulled over and then erased the code (had my OFT in the car) to see if it'll go away. The drive home was fine, but it came back this morning.

I'm wondering if this is a mechanical issue with the sprocket (vs. an issue of an electrical nature) because the car basically ran as limp mode even after erasing the code and before it came back. My question is, do you guys who have dealt with this more think that is a correct diagnosis? I don't have an explanation for why else it would still be in limp mode after the reset. Note that I did not pull the battery so I could try that tonight, but at the same time if it's a mechanical issue I'd rather not put more miles on the engine.

Engine mods: oil cooler, headers, TRD exhaust came with the car, OFT tune. Doesn't matter either way since I have close to 90k miles on it but in case anyone is wondering.

Would appreciate any insight here. Thanks!

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Jamestl

Hey guys,

Just got the P0018 last night on the way home, was accelerating and then there was a loss of power (not all the way, just went into limp mode). I pulled over and then erased the code (had my OFT in the car) to see if it'll go away. The drive home was fine, but it came back this morning.

I'm wondering if this is a mechanical issue with the sprocket (vs. an issue of an electrical nature) because the car basically ran as limp mode even after erasing the code and before it came back. My question is, do you guys who have dealt with this more think that is a correct diagnosis? I don't have an explanation for why else it would still be in limp mode after the reset. Note that I did not pull the battery so I could try that tonight, but at the same time if it's a mechanical issue I'd rather not put more miles on the engine.

Engine mods: oil cooler, headers, TRD exhaust came with the car, OFT tune. Doesn't matter either way since I have close to 90k miles on it but in case anyone is wondering.

Would appreciate any insight here. Thanks!

It a difficult fault to doagnose as it can be due to multiple issues. Start with the easy stuff check sensor clearances as per tsb, swap the oil control valves see if fault moves with swap.

Then next easiest is probably ecu if you have software tools to do it.

If still no go then its probably ghe most difficult and expensive fix the actual cam sproket\actuator

[Jamestl]

Originally Posted by steve99

It a difficult fault to doagnose as it can be due to multiple issues. Start with the easy stuff check sensor clearances as per tsb, swap the oil control valves see if fault moves with swap.

Then next easiest is probably ecu if you have software tools to do it.

If still no go then its probably ghe most difficult and expensive fix the actual cam sproket\actuator

Thanks, Steve. I ordered an OCV and see if that’ll solve the issue. Do you know which one P0018 is referring to? I think it’s the driver side but haven’t be able to find a definitive answer on top or bottom valve...