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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ |
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05-03-2016, 02:27 PM | #29 | ||
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Quote:
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This has piqued my interest. I do wonder why Subaru specified DI water.
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05-03-2016, 03:02 PM | #30 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to humfrz For This Useful Post: | Ultramaroon (05-03-2016) |
05-03-2016, 08:39 PM | #31 |
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I noticed the same thing at ~18K miles. I just got some Subaru blue and filled it to the top line. Have been fine since. (now at 18K). Suspect maybe evaporation or not fully bleed at the factory and there was some air I the system
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05-27-2020, 03:09 AM | #32 |
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Hello all, just posting here as I didn't want to create a new thread. I noticed my coolant reservoir was just below "Low" after sitting overnight so I started doing research and reading up on multiple threads on this. Since this is "overflow", it should be alright; after some driving, the level goes up halfway between "high" and "low".
However, I noticed that the coolant hose has what looks to be signs of dried coolant. However, I don't see similar marks anywhere else inside the engine bay and it is relatively clean. So was the coolant slightly boiling over time to leave those residues? I do occasionally drive spiritedly, canyon runs and all. Finding out the cause aside, what would solve this "issue"? Would a high pressure radiator cap help? Feedback appreciated. Thank you. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Seiryuu For This Useful Post: | Wally86 (10-29-2021) |
10-26-2021, 09:42 PM | #33 | |
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I know this is not my topic, but might still be a good place to add my findings for people having issues OVER @20k miles. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to sato For This Useful Post: | Wally86 (10-29-2021) |
10-26-2021, 10:26 PM | #34 |
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It's as good a place as any. Collapsed hose is interesting. If you're not losing coolant, and a hose is really collapsing, I would guess that something is keeping the fluid from returning to the system as it cools. A clogged reservoir hose? Stuck return valve or whatever it's called? I'm talking about the little one in the middle of the cap. It should open really easily, and is usually the one that leaks in the first place.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | Wally86 (10-29-2021) |
10-27-2021, 11:32 PM | #35 | |
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Ordered the radiator cap but bought a TVS unit/Autozone: new one doesn't go as deep as the original one into radiator. Nevertheless, I put it in. PS Parts shop mentioned that our cars have two (2) thermostats or flow control valves, but I can only locate one. Apparently auto trans cars have two (2) thermostats. https://www.oemgenuineparts.com/v-20...and-components Last edited by sato; 10-27-2021 at 11:37 PM. Reason: Update |
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10-29-2021, 12:01 PM | #36 |
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Look at that! I've never heard of such a thing. Now I wonder how a failure would present itself.
https://gt86stuff.onrender.com/t3Por...00RTE03TX.html Opens at such a low temperature! https://gt86stuff.onrender.com/t3Por...0335X02CX.html 1. INSPECT THERMOSTAT (a) Immerse the thermostat in water and then gradually heat the water. HINT: Hold the thermostat with a wire or the like, so that the thermostat does not come into contact with the bottom of the container. (b) Check the valve opening temperature of the thermostat. Valve opening temperature: 48 to 52°C (118 to 126°F) HINT: If the valve opening temperature is not as specified, replace the thermostat. (c) Check the valve lift. Text in Illustration *a Valve Lift Valve lift: 6.0 mm (0.236 in.) or more at 63°C (145°F) HINT: If the valve lift is not as specified, replace the thermostat. (d) Check that the valve is fully closed when the water inlet with thermostat is at low temperatures (below 45°C (113°F)). HINT: If it is not fully closed, replace the thermostat.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Ultramaroon For This Useful Post: | sato (10-29-2021) |
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