SCCA T4 Build thread

[rice_classic]

So reassembly has commenced.

RTV ALL THE THINGS! There's so many things that use RTV that when I installed something that didn't need it, I always felt like I missing step.

So I chose not to use the "lay down a 1.5mm bead" method and went with the method I used on Honda engines which is apply a thin layer with your finger.



Much less squeeze out after torquing bolts.



But a local machine shop turned my cyl heads around in a pretty decent time so I get start bolting things together! But first - the new block directly from Toyota!




I did a thin coat of RTV on the tip of the headgasket as the instructions dictate - at least I think I did it right..


Fresh Heads!



Remember when doing your timing chain - line up your pink links with the cam marking.


Blue links should overlap over the half moon (white mark is paint pen).



I don't think this is going to work without the chain guide - don't worry I added it just in the nick of time!


Crankshaft pulley - PUT THE BOLT IN... It fell and apparently these are more fragile than I would have thought.


I don't think it will impact belt function and I filed down the rough edges to ensure it doesn't. If I through a belt then I'll replace it.


So finally after only a half tube of RTV sealant, a bunch of fumbling through FSM instructions, a crazy head bolt torque sequence and a bunch of other plugs, clips, bobs, caps, nuts and bolts... here we are


Next UP - Body panels, radiator, clutch, short shifter and then the vinyl wrap! Good lord January will be busy.. Hopefully I can make it to the Dyno in Feb!

[Four_wheel_drifts]

Dumb question: I just spoke with Sunwest Automotive near your potential future home in Spokane. They quoted me $5k and $360 round trip shipping for my longblock to them and back and a complete rebuild.

Does SCCA rules not allow for rebuilding the shortblock?

Sunwest said that they were VERY familiar with the spun bearing issues our engines have. Total turn around is less than 3 WEEKS right now.

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by Four_wheel_drifts

Dumb question: I just spoke with Sunwest Automotive near your potential future home in Spokane. They quoted me $5k and $360 round trip shipping for my longblock to them and back and a complete rebuild.

Does SCCA rules not allow for rebuilding the shortblock?

Sunwest said that they were VERY familiar with the spun bearing issues our engines have. Total turn around is less than 3 WEEKS right now.

It all depends on what a "rebuild" entails. If a rebuild is doing new bearings, rings and seals on the bottom end - that can be done at home and honestly if you can find an OEM shortblock for <$2k from a dealer or online then that's an easy button. The same goes for the heads - a rebuild generally does very little with the heads (assuming most rebuilds don't involve machine work). In my case it was a full tear down, shaving, valve grind, lash readjustment and reassembly so there was a bit of a machine work there. All of this is within the specified limits of the FSM as per T4 rules and all for (hopefully) at least 5hp.

T4 allows you to rebuild the short block, you can even overbore .020" but then you have add weight to the car. I just didn't think the cost of parts and labor and 10% tax was worth it would be ~$2k and the brand new block was $2k and Toyota refunds me 10% on that as part the SCCA program.

If $5k gets you completely refreshed bottom end AND freshened heads with valve work AND it's assembled, all with a 3 week turnaround - that's a pretty smoking deal. Better than sourcing a used engine, and you'll know it will be "fresh" and less likely to fail in the future. You might want to install oil pan baffle while the pan is off btw.

[Capt Spaulding]

If you don't mind me asking, omitting the rebate from Toyota, what was the final tab for the rebuild.

Edit: also, and this is probably my ignorance speaking, why not opt for head studs instead of bolts. I have major heartburn every time I have to run a critical fastener into an aluminum casting. Even with really good torque wrenches, it keeps me up at night.

[villainous_frx]

Rebuilds looking good, excited to see how you do in '22!

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by Capt Spaulding

If you don't mind me asking, omitting the rebate from Toyota, what was the final tab for the rebuild.

Edit: also, and this is probably my ignorance speaking, why not opt for head studs instead of bolts. I have major heartburn every time I have to run a critical fastener into an aluminum casting. Even with really good torque wrenches, it keeps me up at night.

Toyota Parts Deal was about $1950 for the short block, heads+flywheel was $3033. Add in a couple head gaskets, new head bolts, valve stem seals and RTV sealant, shipping, tax etc.. I'm about $5500 in. Not TOO far off from finding a junkyard replacement - except I know this engine is "tighter" in spec toward maximizing the rules and both the bottom and top ends are as good as new (or better). And because I assembled much of it, along with inspecting the assembly of others - if it fails, I only have me to blame.



I didn't use head studs because after 90k miles and 3 race seasons - I had zero issues with gaskets and we are making basically stock HP + 10% (<200whp on dynojet). If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I've also not heard of anyone else who is naturally aspirated having head gasket issues. Since head bolts are "by the book" it was the easy button and I can trust the process because it's the factory process. It was 1 less new thing to learn. I had purchased new bolts before I learned they could be reused so that's an expense I could have avoided. But I can use them when I rebuild that block.

[Autoxer62]

Thanks for the detailed log. I'd think that you could get a good used crank damper/pulley pretty easily and for cheap locally, personally I'd replace that now. I have one, but I'm on the other side of the country, drop me a line if you're interested.

[rice_classic]

Progress has been slow as I've tried to pack other things into life along with a new job but, I have found time recently along with some help of a friend.

I have great news... She FIRED UP and has no leaks! I haven't had a chance to get her out of the garage yet and I'm not even sure I'll have time to get to the dyno before I need to race it so I'm really hoping she's "strong out of the box".

Let's start with the installing the new radiator.. I am using the original fans/housing but noticed in the crash the housing was damaged - plastic welder to save the day!







Now it was time for a new: Hood, Bumper, Fenders and doors and getting them to line up right too.





So I'm going to vinyl wrap the car as mentioned in previous posts but I was going to do the roof white with a nice white carbon fiber vinyl:




And I was just about done too when... RRRRRIP. I just trying to lift up a section to make a correction and a massive section just ripped off. Oh well, I ordered some more and I'll be careful next time.




So instead we moved on to body work as we continue trying to "Get the miata out of the car". Remember that Miata is always the answer - especially if the question is "What just hit me?!"



Thank you friend with Harbor Freight autobody welder.





After we pulled the metal back into place, it was time to smooth it out.







There still some bondo sanding left to do then I'm going to rattle can prime/paint to seal it in and so the vinyl has something to stick to. I'm hoping that in the next 10 days the body work is complete and all the vinyl is on. That way I can move on to re-scaling the car as I plan improving upon my corner weights from last year.

[rice_classic]

There were a couple things I wanted to fix after last year.

1: I noticed after raising the ride height that it didn't make sense to run the 2" taller top hat (need for running super low) as it created a ton of preload on the springs and limited droop. So I swapped back on the OEM mounts and gained a ton of droop. This should help the rear be more compliant.

Comparison Picture of before/after:




2: I like how the car shifts but I wanted to try something different and I was recommended to try the IRP shifter - so of course I have to buy the Gold one for the jokes (Gold Member, Money Shift).




Although it reminds me of the classic skit from Monty Python: "Biggus D|ckus"

[rice_classic]

First of all... Let's start with some good stuff..

The 3M Wrap looked GREAT and the time I spent installing it (and learning) was worth it. I got a lot of compliments on the color which is damn near the same as the OEM Hot Lava but more vibrant.

Here it is out of the garage and then all sticker'd up.









Wrapping the car was time consuming, lots of areas I could have done better but all in all - if I were have to painted it myself in my garage it would be MUCH worse with much more cost and effort. For a race car, I'm pretty sold on vinyl.

[rice_classic]

So, as documented here, my engine build with about 40+ hours of labor and learning and ~$5k... I still have no idea how well it works.

When we got down to Willow Springs (1000+ mile tow), I popped a P0017 during the test day. UGH. I knew that was game over. We swapped the actuators, no change in code, swapped the sensors, no change in code so I knew it was either the sprocket or the computer and since I rebuilt the engine I was 99% sure it was the sprocket (which were off during rebuild).

I hooked up Tech stream and got 0.00% feed back on that sprocket which mean it was not doing it's job. Thankfully we had a spare engine in the trailer so I start out my California trip doing a late night engine swap on a cold California night (#firstworldproblems).



Now, combine this with the fact that NONE of us from out of town brought enough tires for the trip because we didn't account for how harsh and destructive Willow Springs is on Hoosier A7s... oops. We have now learned our lesson.

But alas, some good news - With some luck and tenacity I was able to eek out a win from 4th place at Thunderhill, even after getting stuck in Miata Hell, when 2nd place spun and 1st place broke an axle and I was able to overtake #49.

Goddamn, I love racing.

I have ordered a new pass side exhaust Sprocket from Toyota so I'll swap that out and hopefully get to enjoy my new motor the next time out (likely May).

[Turfer]

Here is the in car for the spin mentioned above and how I dealt with it on Sunday. Bent and cracked the left front RPF-1.

It was a good couple of weekends. Sure glad rice classic was able to run both weekends.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Turfer

Here is the in car for the spin mentioned above and how I dealt with it on Sunday. Bent and cracked the left front RPF-1.


It was a good couple of weekends. Sure glad rice classic was able to run both weekends.

Is that the SAME car that caused the "Miata full send" incident in the same spot last year?

[rice_classic]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Is that the SAME car that caused the "Miata full send" incident in the same spot last year?

It is indeed! Good eyes.



There's a 115% rule in SCCA and that driver is consistently outside of that threshold at every track and entirely oblivious to world around him and we bring it up with the stewards time and time again but they just keep letting him race. Ironically the officials asked us if the T2 cars could run in our group as a 2nd run group and we declined and it's a good thing we did - imagine the closing speed between a T2 car and that HP car - that driver would get kill in contact between two. Even if Turfer had hit him, he would have been hospitalized. That guy needs to find another hobby.