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Old 06-18-2018, 04:18 AM   #1
thriller
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2016 BRZ Aftermarket Head Unit Install DIY

2016 BRZ Aftermarket Head Unit Install


Almost all of this information was compiled from these two threads. Many thanks to @Akuma147, @Luftwaffel, @sLoPy, @SVXdc, and everyone else who contributed. This is just my attempt to distill many pagesí worth of info into one post for 2016 BRZ owners. Although this is specific to a 2016 USDM BRZ, I've tried to include additional information for different model years as well.
2016 BRZ Head Unit Wiring Harness
DIY - Aftermarket Head Unit install on 2017 BRZ

This thread will also be helpful to take everything apart:
Full BRZ interior disassembly for sound deadening - lots of pics, every panel off


Mechanical

Thereís 3 good options if you are installing a standard 7Ē aftermarket double-DIN head unit. I used the AV Escutcheon with an Alpine iLX-107, since I have a 2017 Canadian (rectangular opening) dash trim on my 2016 USDM BRZ, but it should be pretty similar for most. However, the brackets holding up the 2016 head unit interfered with the Escutcheon, and I had to Dremel out a few millimeters from the Escutcheon (on the sides of the head unit, so completely invisible from the front).

If you are very particular about small gaps, or if you end up with a large gap above or below the head unit when using the Metra or Escutcheon adapter, you can use some black foam to make small adjustments, buy some black rubber gaskets to fill in the gaps, or look for other solutions.

2012 - 2015 BRZ or any dash trim with rectangular opening. Converts standard 4Ē x 7Ē head unit to the 4Ē x 8ď (200mm) opening:
Gloss (piano) black:
Subaru BRZ AV Escutcheon (JDM spacer) - P/N H0017CA900
Matte black ABS plastic:
Metra 95-8202

2016 - up BRZ or any dash trim with trapezoidal opening:
Scosche SU2032B (gloss black)

Connectors
There are 7 connectors for the factory head unit coming out of the dash. Hereís what you need for those connections one by one, as well as the layout for each of the connectors, in case you need it. Please note that the pin layout is based on the connectors inside your dash, so if you look at the ones on your harness connector, they will be reversed (for example on the 6-pin connector, the RR speaker (green wires) are on the right side of the connector (pins 2 & 6) but if you look at the connector on your harness, the green wires for RR speaker will be on the left side.

10-pin Connector
(Front speakers / power)

Pin Layout:

1 - Right front speaker (+)
2 - Left front speaker (+)
3 - Accessory (+) 12v
4 - Battery / constant power (+) 12v

5 - Right front speaker (-)
6 - Left front speaker (-)
7 - Ground
8 - Power antenna
9 - Not used (you may need to move this wire to 28-pin connector, pin 9 on your aftermarket harness for 2016-up)
10 - Illumination (+) (not used on my head unit, but if your head unit has a wire for it, use this one instead of 28-pin connector, pin 3)
6-pin Connector
(Rear speakers)

Pin Layout:
1 - Right rear speaker (+)
2 - Left rear speaker (+)

3 - Right rear speaker (-)
4 - Not used
5 - Dimmer? (black/white wire in the dash connector, but no wire for it on the Metra 70-1761)
6 - Left rear speaker (-)
What you need:
Metra 70-1761 (includes both 10 & 6 pin connectors) and solder each wire to the corresponding wire on your head unitís harness

Or any head unit-specific Toyota / Subaru harness if you want to skip the soldering. As long as it has 10 and 6 pin connectors, you should be ok, except you may need to disconnect pin #9 from the 10-pin connector and move it to pin #9 on the 28-pin connector for the OEM amp (door speakers wonít work if you don't)

Power antenna wire note: on my Metra harness, pins 8 and 9 were wired together, presumably to account for either position of the power antenna connection. This blue wire (not blue/white, thatís the power amp wire) should go to your head unitís power antenna connection. The blue wire from the Metra 40-LX11 is not used on the BRZ and can be snipped off. A double check of the connector in the dash of a 2016 BRZ confirmed there is nothing for this wire to connect to. If you have a different model year or arenít sure if you need it, just solder the blue wire from the Metra 40-LX11 onto the other 2 blue wires (one from the power antenna connection of head unit, the other from 10-pin connector, pin 8/9).


28-pin Connector
(Mic/Amp/Backup Cam/Aux/Steering Wheel Controls)

Pin Layout:

1 - Not used
2 - Reverse signal
3 - Bright (not typically used by aftermarket)
4 - Mic power (+) 5v
5 - Mic signal (+)
6 - Mic Detect
7 - Not used
8 - Not used
9 - Amp signal (+) 12v
10 - Not used
11 - Backup camera power (+) 6v
12 - Backup camera video signal (+)
13 - Backup camera video signal (-)
14 - Not used
15 - Parking (e-brake)
16 - Not used
17 - Vehicle speed sensor (VSS)
18 - Mic shield ground
19 - Mic signal (-)
20 - Camera power ground
21 - Not used (steering wheel control 2017-up)
22 - Not used (steering wheel control 2017-up)
23 - Not used (steering wheel control 2017-up)
24 - Not used
25 - Aux enable
26 - Aux right
27 - Aux ground
28 - Aux left


What you need:
Aux, Backup Camera, VSS, & OEM Amp
Hereís three options. The first two include a voltage converter for the backup camera. For the third option, you will need to buy one separately.

Autoharnesshouse 28-pin connector (this is what I used):
http://www.autoharnesshouse.com/67122.html

This includes 12v to 6v converter.

There will be a yellow RCA video cable that you connect to your head unitís backup camera input, red and black RCA cables to connect to your head unitís AUX input (depending on your head unit, you may need a female stereo RCA to male 1/8Ē stereo converter).

There will be 6 remaining wires:

Amp Power: solder to head unitís Amp Power / Remote wire. If you donít connect this wire, the OEM amp will not work and you will get no sound from the door speakers.
E-Brake: solder to head unitís E-Brake / Parking connection (if it has one, otherwise just tape it off)
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS): solder to head unitís VSS wire (if it has one, otherwise just tape it off)
Reverse: solder to head unitís reverse / back up wire (if it has one, otherwise just tape it off)
Ground: solder into the black ground wire running from the 10-pin connector, pin 7 to the head unitís ground connection
Video ground: solder into the black ground wire running from the 10-pin connector, pin 7 to the head unitís ground connection (there will be 4 total wires connected)
Or

Metra AXSUB28SWC6V (there are many comments about poor quality & the pins not being straight on this particular connector, so you definitely want to inspect the pins, and you may have to straighten out the pins manually)
Includes 12v to 6v converter

Wiring is presumably similar to the above
Or

Metra AX-SUB28SWC (not sure if quality is any better)

PLUS

12v to 6v power converter for backup camera
DROK 12V to 6V Converter P/N B00CGQRIFG / 090597
12v (+) red wire from DROK to 28-pin, pin 2
12v (-) black wire from DROK to 10-pin, pin 7
6v (+) yellow wire from DROK to 28-pin, pin 11
6v (-) black wire from DROK to 28-pin, pin 20
RCA (yellow) from harness to RCA (yellow) head unit

The remaining wires should be similar to the above

Steering wheel controls (2017-up)
AXSUB28SWC6V and 120ASWC1 - see Akuma147ís excellent 2017 Head Unit Install DIY:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111866

OEM Mic
Donít bother trying. It was poor quality to begin with and if you can get it to work, it will probably sound even worse. Use the mic your aftermarket head unit came with. Route it either under the dash and up the driverís side A-pillar to come out near the visor, or behind the glove box, up the passenger A-pillar, and behind the headliner to come out near the rear view mirror or in the OEM spot. I have both my aftermarket mic and my dash cam routed out of the headliner next to the rear view mirror and they are very discreet looking from the inside and almost invisible from the outside. Or the easiest way is to just route it out of the dash near the steering wheel.

This thread will be helpful for getting things apart:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53511
USB Connector (BRZ Limited)
2012 - 2015 BRZ: Metra AX-SUBUSB

2016 - up BRZ: Metra AX-SUBUSB2

Just connect it to the factory USB connection and directly to your head unitís USB port
Antenna Connector
Metra 40-LX11

Connect the antenna side to your head unit, the plastic connector goes into the connector in your dash, snip off the blue wire for 2016 models (see Power antenna note above)
GPS Connector
Check for an adapter for your specific head unit or just use the GPS antenna your head unit came with. I used the one that came with my head unit and routed it behind the glove box, up and out of the gap where the dash meets the passenger-side A-pillar, then ran it along the dash next to the windshield and glued it next to where the OEM one is (look for the dome on your dash). I didnít have to remove the entire dash for either this or for my mic, but removing the glove box, the A-pillar, and the side dash piece that faces the passenger door was extremely helpful.
Supplemental Ground Connector
You can probably just rely on the ground from the 10-pin connector, pin 7 for an aftermarket head unit (I did with no issues). If you are using metal brackets to attach the new head unit to the metal brackets in your dash, you could bolt this connector onto one of the brackets in your dash to ground the whole thing, but itís probably unnecessary.

Last edited by thriller; 06-18-2018 at 04:27 AM. Reason: added pics
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Old 11-01-2018, 12:24 AM   #2
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Thank you for this writeup!! This helped me out a lot in installing my XAV-AX100. I have a few remaining questions that I'm hoping someone with more experience than I can answer:

1. For the grounding, if I want to use that supplemental ground connector from the car, would I have to cut its connector and splice it in with solder/twist cap?
2. I grounded my parking brake wires on the recommendation of people online, and now the BRAKE light is constantly illuminated on my dash. How to I get that to go away? Should I take the e-brake wires out of my bundle of grounds?
3. The rearview camera works great when I put it into reverse, but not when I click the "Camera" button on my head unit. Is there some way to rewire it so it will work in both cases?

Thanks again for putting together this info man, if I could give you rep points or whatever then I would!
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Old 11-18-2018, 08:00 PM   #3
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For the supplemental grounding, I believe it's mostly for the radio chassis. I would just snip off the connector, and add a ring terminal (crimp or solder) then put that connector around one of the screws used to attach the side of the head unit to the frame.

For the parking brake, it depends on what you are trying to accomplish. My head unit has a lockout where it won't let you do anything (video / pairing / etc) unless the parking brake is engaged. If you are trying to get your head unit to play DVD's or something, then instead of wiring the parking brake signal to the ground, you probably want to add a relay or switch to the parking brake (and likely VSS) wires so that you can fool the head unit into thinking the vehicle is stopped (assuming you want to do something SAFE with your head unit while driving)...

The rearview camera is probably similar. Maybe you could add a switch or relay to the reverse wire going into the head unit to fool the head unit into thinking you are reversing and engage the camera. Alternatively, if your head unit has a video input, you could do something like splice the video connection and plug it into the head unit's video input as well (which would also most likely require fooling the parking brake / VSS). Looks like the folks on this thread had some luck with this:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57644
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Old 01-04-2019, 02:36 AM   #4
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I have a DVD player unit I picked up, should have gotten the GPS enabled.. anyway, video playback while moving is probably the most simplest of the head unit wiring and doesn't require any boxes or converters to trick the safety crap.. just ground the ebrake sensor from the unit. NOT the actual ebrake wire from the car. I've been doing this with all my installs over the course of almost 15 years - no ground loops. The safety sensor wire in aftermarket units just needs to be "closed".

As far as the camera - you'll need power as you view - which means running camera power from a fuse or an accessory that is powered with ignition. I've ran POS and NEG to cam power off the unit power for this reason before, no worries. And in most cases camera viewing with aftermarket units while in motion is usually for the front camera input. Again, simple fix: el-cheapo female RCA to male RCA splitter. Connect one to front, one to rear. Unless you have a front cam, which doesn't sound like it.. Speaker whine: In most cases your cars alternator is to blame. A lot of whining sounds in speakers can be made by EMF from an alternator or static EMF being close to the engine. A simple shunt circuit may be introduced in line with either the ignition 12v (red wire) or the 12v constant that is running your clock timer (yellow wire). It's easy to determine which is the cause: key ignition on without engine running 1) if no feedback, this is good. 2) if feedback is present, this is EMF coming from the 12v constant. This would indicate the shunt should be in-line with the constant 12v to the unit. Test with engine running: turn music level almost 0 - rev the engine or take a short drive and listen for a whine while accelerating. If this sound is present, the shunt circuit should be in-line with the ignition 12v. This is usually a case of one or the other. And if the hum is present while shunts are in place, ground the audio RCA shields on the back of your unit to the case of the unit. Lots of manufacturing mistakes can be seen here, even from reputable names. The grounding from RCA inputs are usually not solid or in some cases skipped completely, and ground.. well, it finds a way.. through the speakers. I don't use store bought filters, I just build my own with a 35V 4700uF cap, a toroid disc, and about 10ft of 14AWG - costs about 5 bucks. There are also alternator high frequency filters that connect directly to alternator but never had to get that serious.

Just some info for anyone with high frequency suppression issues.


Cheers!
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Old 08-18-2019, 01:47 PM   #5
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I'm looking to install a OEM head unit from a 2018 BRZ Limited into my 2013 BRZ limited. Does anyone happen to know if the harnesses are plug and play. I thought I saw a write up that some did this and there might be some minor differences.
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Old 04-30-2020, 04:55 PM   #6
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Thank you for this detailed and very helpful guide! Worked perfect on a Sony XAV-AX5000 head unit, first mod done to the car.
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Old 05-01-2020, 01:23 AM   #7
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Thanks! Very helpful! I assume 2013 FRS should use same pin layout, right?
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Old 05-17-2020, 10:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thriller View Post
2016 BRZ Aftermarket Head Unit Install


Almost all of this information was compiled from these two threads. Many thanks to @Akuma147, @Luftwaffel, @sLoPy, @SVXdc, and everyone else who contributed. This is just my attempt to distill many pages’ worth of info into one post for 2016 BRZ owners. Although this is specific to a 2016 USDM BRZ, I've tried to include additional information for different model years as well.
2016 BRZ Head Unit Wiring Harness
DIY - Aftermarket Head Unit install on 2017 BRZ

This thread will also be helpful to take everything apart:
Full BRZ interior disassembly for sound deadening - lots of pics, every panel off


Mechanical

There’s 3 good options if you are installing a standard 7” aftermarket double-DIN head unit. I used the AV Escutcheon with an Alpine iLX-107, since I have a 2017 Canadian (rectangular opening) dash trim on my 2016 USDM BRZ, but it should be pretty similar for most. However, the brackets holding up the 2016 head unit interfered with the Escutcheon, and I had to Dremel out a few millimeters from the Escutcheon (on the sides of the head unit, so completely invisible from the front).

If you are very particular about small gaps, or if you end up with a large gap above or below the head unit when using the Metra or Escutcheon adapter, you can use some black foam to make small adjustments, buy some black rubber gaskets to fill in the gaps, or look for other solutions.

2012 - 2015 BRZ or any dash trim with rectangular opening. Converts standard 4” x 7” head unit to the 4” x 8“ (200mm) opening:
Gloss (piano) black:
Subaru BRZ AV Escutcheon (JDM spacer) - P/N H0017CA900
Matte black ABS plastic:
Metra 95-8202

2016 - up BRZ or any dash trim with trapezoidal opening:
Scosche SU2032B (gloss black)

Connectors
There are 7 connectors for the factory head unit coming out of the dash. Here’s what you need for those connections one by one, as well as the layout for each of the connectors, in case you need it. Please note that the pin layout is based on the connectors inside your dash, so if you look at the ones on your harness connector, they will be reversed (for example on the 6-pin connector, the RR speaker (green wires) are on the right side of the connector (pins 2 & 6) but if you look at the connector on your harness, the green wires for RR speaker will be on the left side.

10-pin Connector
(Front speakers / power)

Pin Layout:

1 - Right front speaker (+)
2 - Left front speaker (+)
3 - Accessory (+) 12v
4 - Battery / constant power (+) 12v

5 - Right front speaker (-)
6 - Left front speaker (-)
7 - Ground
8 - Power antenna
9 - Not used (you may need to move this wire to 28-pin connector, pin 9 on your aftermarket harness for 2016-up)
10 - Illumination (+) (not used on my head unit, but if your head unit has a wire for it, use this one instead of 28-pin connector, pin 3)
6-pin Connector
(Rear speakers)

Pin Layout:
1 - Right rear speaker (+)
2 - Left rear speaker (+)

3 - Right rear speaker (-)
4 - Not used
5 - Dimmer? (black/white wire in the dash connector, but no wire for it on the Metra 70-1761)
6 - Left rear speaker (-)
What you need:
Metra 70-1761 (includes both 10 & 6 pin connectors) and solder each wire to the corresponding wire on your head unit’s harness

Or any head unit-specific Toyota / Subaru harness if you want to skip the soldering. As long as it has 10 and 6 pin connectors, you should be ok, except you may need to disconnect pin #9 from the 10-pin connector and move it to pin #9 on the 28-pin connector for the OEM amp (door speakers won’t work if you don't)

Power antenna wire note: on my Metra harness, pins 8 and 9 were wired together, presumably to account for either position of the power antenna connection. This blue wire (not blue/white, that’s the power amp wire) should go to your head unit’s power antenna connection. The blue wire from the Metra 40-LX11 is not used on the BRZ and can be snipped off. A double check of the connector in the dash of a 2016 BRZ confirmed there is nothing for this wire to connect to. If you have a different model year or aren’t sure if you need it, just solder the blue wire from the Metra 40-LX11 onto the other 2 blue wires (one from the power antenna connection of head unit, the other from 10-pin connector, pin 8/9).


28-pin Connector
(Mic/Amp/Backup Cam/Aux/Steering Wheel Controls)

Pin Layout:

1 - Not used
2 - Reverse signal
3 - Bright (not typically used by aftermarket)
4 - Mic power (+) 5v
5 - Mic signal (+)
6 - Mic Detect
7 - Not used
8 - Not used
9 - Amp signal (+) 12v
10 - Not used
11 - Backup camera power (+) 6v
12 - Backup camera video signal (+)
13 - Backup camera video signal (-)
14 - Not used
15 - Parking (e-brake)
16 - Not used
17 - Vehicle speed sensor (VSS)
18 - Mic shield ground
19 - Mic signal (-)
20 - Camera power ground
21 - Not used (steering wheel control 2017-up)
22 - Not used (steering wheel control 2017-up)
23 - Not used (steering wheel control 2017-up)
24 - Not used
25 - Aux enable
26 - Aux right
27 - Aux ground
28 - Aux left


What you need:
Aux, Backup Camera, VSS, & OEM Amp
Here’s three options. The first two include a voltage converter for the backup camera. For the third option, you will need to buy one separately.

Autoharnesshouse 28-pin connector (this is what I used):
http://www.autoharnesshouse.com/67122.html

This includes 12v to 6v converter.

There will be a yellow RCA video cable that you connect to your head unit’s backup camera input, red and black RCA cables to connect to your head unit’s AUX input (depending on your head unit, you may need a female stereo RCA to male 1/8” stereo converter).

There will be 6 remaining wires:

Amp Power: solder to head unit’s Amp Power / Remote wire. If you don’t connect this wire, the OEM amp will not work and you will get no sound from the door speakers.
E-Brake: solder to head unit’s E-Brake / Parking connection (if it has one, otherwise just tape it off)
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS): solder to head unit’s VSS wire (if it has one, otherwise just tape it off)
Reverse: solder to head unit’s reverse / back up wire (if it has one, otherwise just tape it off)
Ground: solder into the black ground wire running from the 10-pin connector, pin 7 to the head unit’s ground connection
Video ground: solder into the black ground wire running from the 10-pin connector, pin 7 to the head unit’s ground connection (there will be 4 total wires connected)
Or

Metra AXSUB28SWC6V (there are many comments about poor quality & the pins not being straight on this particular connector, so you definitely want to inspect the pins, and you may have to straighten out the pins manually)
Includes 12v to 6v converter

Wiring is presumably similar to the above
Or

Metra AX-SUB28SWC (not sure if quality is any better)

PLUS

12v to 6v power converter for backup camera
DROK 12V to 6V Converter P/N B00CGQRIFG / 090597
12v (+) red wire from DROK to 28-pin, pin 2
12v (-) black wire from DROK to 10-pin, pin 7
6v (+) yellow wire from DROK to 28-pin, pin 11
6v (-) black wire from DROK to 28-pin, pin 20
RCA (yellow) from harness to RCA (yellow) head unit

The remaining wires should be similar to the above

Steering wheel controls (2017-up)
AXSUB28SWC6V and 120ASWC1 - see Akuma147’s excellent 2017 Head Unit Install DIY:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111866

OEM Mic
Don’t bother trying. It was poor quality to begin with and if you can get it to work, it will probably sound even worse. Use the mic your aftermarket head unit came with. Route it either under the dash and up the driver’s side A-pillar to come out near the visor, or behind the glove box, up the passenger A-pillar, and behind the headliner to come out near the rear view mirror or in the OEM spot. I have both my aftermarket mic and my dash cam routed out of the headliner next to the rear view mirror and they are very discreet looking from the inside and almost invisible from the outside. Or the easiest way is to just route it out of the dash near the steering wheel.

This thread will be helpful for getting things apart:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53511
USB Connector (BRZ Limited)
2012 - 2015 BRZ: Metra AX-SUBUSB

2016 - up BRZ: Metra AX-SUBUSB2

Just connect it to the factory USB connection and directly to your head unit’s USB port
Antenna Connector
Metra 40-LX11

Connect the antenna side to your head unit, the plastic connector goes into the connector in your dash, snip off the blue wire for 2016 models (see Power antenna note above)
GPS Connector
Check for an adapter for your specific head unit or just use the GPS antenna your head unit came with. I used the one that came with my head unit and routed it behind the glove box, up and out of the gap where the dash meets the passenger-side A-pillar, then ran it along the dash next to the windshield and glued it next to where the OEM one is (look for the dome on your dash). I didn’t have to remove the entire dash for either this or for my mic, but removing the glove box, the A-pillar, and the side dash piece that faces the passenger door was extremely helpful.
Supplemental Ground Connector
You can probably just rely on the ground from the 10-pin connector, pin 7 for an aftermarket head unit (I did with no issues). If you are using metal brackets to attach the new head unit to the metal brackets in your dash, you could bolt this connector onto one of the brackets in your dash to ground the whole thing, but it’s probably unnecessary.
Are the pinouts on the 28 pin the same on base model 2031 FR-S? A lot of the pin locations are not occupied like the diagram. For instance the #2 pin reverse signal. There is no wire on my car. Then again my car did not have anything in the headunit that would require a reverse signal. My new aftermarket unit does tho.
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Old 05-29-2020, 04:45 PM   #9
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No, the 2013 FRS is going to be pretty different from the 2016 BRZ. Check out this thread for some good info: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...5&postcount=34
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Old 05-30-2020, 12:32 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thriller View Post
No, the 2013 FRS is going to be pretty different from the 2016 BRZ. Check out this thread for some good info: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...5&postcount=34
Gracias, compa
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Old 03-02-2021, 04:32 PM   #11
omegared19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G_Rossney View Post
I'm looking to install a OEM head unit from a 2018 BRZ Limited into my 2013 BRZ limited. Does anyone happen to know if the harnesses are plug and play. I thought I saw a write up that some did this and there might be some minor differences.
It is not plug and play. There are a number of wires that need to be swapped from harness to harness. Plus the bluetooth, mic, and gps are not compatible, and you would need to source and swap all parts. It is possible to do if money and time are not important to you.
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