BRZ Clutch Job Torque Specs & Tips

[staybrzy]

Made a small list of torque specs and grease points for my clutch install. Includes some tips too.

I couldn't find anything online that listed every torque spec in the whole process. Hope this helps!

Torque Specs:

-Clutch release cylinder - 2 bolts (27 ft/lbs)

-Ground for this ^ - 1 bolt (10ft/lbs)

-Wire harness clamp bracket - 1 bolt (7 ft/lbs)

-Tranny mount - 4 outside bolts (48 ft/lbs)

-Tranny mount - 2 inside bolts w/washers (30 ft/lbs)

-FP mount - 2 bolts (17 ft/lbs)

-Driveshaft to diff - (57 ft/lbs) (use blue loctite)

-Driveshaft centre support - (35 ft/lbs) (use blue loctite)

-Tranny fill and drain plugs - 2 plugs - 27 ft/lb

-FP to OP - 2 nuts (32 ft/lb)

-FP to centre pipe - (13 ft/lbs)

-Bellhousing to motor, and starter to motor - 6 bolts (37 ft/lbs) (use blue loctite)

-Bellhousing nuts on 2 studs (37 ft/lbs) (use blue loctite)

-Flywheel bolts (tighten in star pattern to 35ft/lb then tighten in star pattern to 63 ft/lb) (use blue loctite)

-Pressure plate (14 ft/lbs in star pattern)

Grease:

-sparingly under flywheel bolt heads

-pivot point in clutch fork and the pivot point itself

-2 spots on clutch fork where the TOB touches and a tiny bit on the TOB as well (same two spots where the clips sit)

-sparingly on the splines and retainer shaft/cover. Not too much, so it doesn't sling onto your clutch disk and ruin it.

-sparingly inside flywheel bearing

-sparingly in the TOB

Tips:

-Use 2 pry bars get the tranny cracked open. You might need to go at it from up top. This may take a while, so be patient with it

-Tilt the motor up a bit from the front (oil pan with a piece of wood is fine). This will help line up the studs with the bellhousing so the tranny doesn't get stuck on the studs

-Completely remove the tranny mount so you can wiggle the tranny up and down more to loosen it from the motor

-A tranny jack will be your best friend. If you don't have one, a second, large jack and wood will work but its sketchy

-Buy beer and have a friend help you out when pulling the tranny and reinstalling

-Clean flywheel with brake cleaner. New or machined.

-After you grease the splines, you can take your clutch disk and run it through the splines to lubricate it. Then wipe off the excess grease from the outsides of the clutch centre

[LtMobile599]

you sir, are a hero. THANK YOU! I've been searching through that PDF service manual which is great but this reference is so much faster.

[AT-JeffT]

Having had to do this job twice, I'll chime in and say Staybrzy is spot on.

I'll add:
Drain the transmission fluid pulling the trans. You will definitely make a mess otherwise. Used trans fluid stinks!

Highly consider replacing the TOB retainer (Input shaft sleeve). If yours is chewed up it will cause premature wear on your new TOB.

Do not try to have your flywheel resurfaced. The FA20 has very tight tolerances for flywheel runout(1mm). Most shops will not be able to machine to these tolerances. New flywheels are cheap and have incredibly low tolerances (.001"). It kills me that a giant chunk of cast iron is a one time use item, but that's how it is.

[sato]

Also, add the engine's rear main seal replacement as a must (one of the second pic) when doing the clutch install. Also, wanted to further bump this thread with pics of replaced parts (don't mean to threadjack):

Originally Posted by AT-JeffT

Do not try to have your flywheel resurfaced. The FA20 has very tight tolerances for flywheel runout(1mm). Most shops will not be able to machine to these tolerances. New flywheels are cheap and have incredibly low tolerances (.001"). It kills me that a giant chunk of cast iron is a one time use item, but that's how it is.

Bought mine from Exedy (way cheaper than Toyota branded part and it is basically the same part) and had it balanced at machine shop. Mine had a tiny amount of weight removed although it was new. Also, it is extra insurance as "some" mechanics just leave the old component as is (maybe clean surface), not even resurfacing or balancing it.

Originally Posted by AT-JeffT

Highly consider replacing the TOB retainer (Input shaft sleeve). If yours is chewed up it will cause premature wear on your new TOB.

Refer to first pic of my car's previous components after 150k miles of mostly granny shifting and highway driving:

- input shaft sleeve, where the throw-out bearing rides (first pic)
- throw-out bearing (TOB), initially replaced under warranty prior to 60k miles (third pic), which was BTW stuck (wouldn't rotate)

[OnTheEdge]

BTW, if you're doing the bearing retainer cover, there are 7 bolts and the specs for them are 17 Nm/12.5 ft-lb. and for what it's worth, the manual says to apply rtv to the outer seal. It also says to apply loctite to the bolts. The manual calls for 'adhesive 1344' which is basically blue loctite. Do your own research.

https://www.slideshare.net/kokkat/20...service-manual
page: MT-27