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Old 02-19-2016, 03:25 AM   #15
humfrz
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Simple way to check. Get multi meter. Turn to ohms/resistance. Unplug compressor clutch plug. Measure resistance across 2 terminals on the compressor. No resistance=bad compressor clutch. If you have resistance then take your multi meter and check for engage voltage on the plug that you undid. Set to voltage. You should see 12 volts when compressor cycling switch or module engages the relay. You don't have voltage. Check wiring diagrams and check the fuses. Fuse good. Check relay by swapping to known good one. Relay good. Check a/c pressure. A/c pressure low side compressor off above 40? Suspect cycling switch/pressure switch for module. Freon low. Refill with dye and check for leaks with a kit.



Good 7th post .........

(but I don't think they use Freon anymore .... )

I know Kleenex = tissue

Side question ...... what happened to your car's engine ..... ??



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Old 02-19-2016, 04:52 AM   #16
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Ohh lord they actually went through with the switch over to that crap? Hell even R-12 is cheaper than that garbage. If you do have a new style system with funky refrigerant then you're screwed in terms of self repair. I didn't even know this happened and I do this on the side all the time and stay updated as much as possible. But if you do still have 134a then you should be able to service it with no issues.

To hum. not my car. A buddies. I'm here for research purposes and maybe give some info as I learn this platform as well as general repair. He wants to build and boost it. I'm far more familiar with gm stuff up to gen 4 ls v8's. And also some dodge stuff and quite well versed on powerstrokes.
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Old 02-19-2016, 11:21 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by humfrz View Post
hmmmm.........if the compressor's clutch won't engage and the fuses and relays are all working, maybe the "gas" level is so low that it won't be allowed to activate or the switch isn't telling it to go ON.

Anyway, I'm afraid it's time for your car to return to the dealer or a auto shop for a diagnosis and repair.

Yep, life is too short to go without A/C in a car.

Y ...... I remember, back in the day ........... shut up humfrz .....
I miss you when you're not around, I don't even have to make "old" jokes, you make them by yourself at yourself
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Old 02-19-2016, 11:29 AM   #18
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North American cars are supposed to be using R134a. They're using the other stuff in Europe. To be certain which you have, open your hood and look for a sticker on the underside of the hood near the latch. It will give you the refrigerant type right there on the car (mine says R134a). The valves are supposed to be different in the two systems so that you can't attach one to the other and mix them.

If it's R134a, you can check the pressure using a gauge on a can from Autozone as suggested above, but I have found those gauges to be unreliable. You can get a real set of gauges for not a whole lot of money, but then you have to learn how to read them.

Personally, what I would do in your situation is find a small local shop with good reviews on line and have them diagnose it. Stay away from the chain stores, especially Fucking Firestone. Most small mechanics will have an A/C machine or a set of gauges at a minimum for A/C checks. You might have better luck with an A/C specialist, and a lot of towns have small shops that specialize in A/C repair. They may charge you a small fee to diagnose it if you plan to do the repair yourself, but most will waive such a fee if they end up doing the work.

ETA: By the way, you don't have a CEL or a traction light showing on the dash, do you? The A/C gets cut out when you go into limp mode, along with cruise control. I figured that would be something you would mention, but just in case...
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Old 02-19-2016, 12:10 PM   #19
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Ohh lord they actually went through with the switch over to that crap? Hell even R-12 is cheaper than that garbage. If you do have a new style system with funky refrigerant then you're screwed in terms of self repair. I didn't even know this happened and I do this on the side all the time and stay updated as much as possible. But if you do still have 134a then you should be able to service it with no issues.

To hum. not my car. A buddies. I'm here for research purposes and maybe give some info as I learn this platform as well as general repair. He wants to build and boost it. I'm far more familiar with gm stuff up to gen 4 ls v8's. And also some dodge stuff and quite well versed on powerstrokes.
Yep, they went and made a "science" out of cooling the interior on ones car.

http://www.allpar.com/eek/ac.html

Life used to be so simple ....... open and turn the wing vent inward an push open the hood vent ......

Glad you are hanging out here ........ you know what you're talking about .....


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Old 02-19-2016, 12:23 PM   #20
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Yep, they went and made a "science" out of cooling the interior on ones car.

http://www.allpar.com/eek/ac.html
I'm pretty sure that if you go out to your car and pop the hood, you'll see that your car is using R134a, as will OP. Toyota/Subaru has been using the other refrigerant in Europe.
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Old 02-19-2016, 12:39 PM   #21
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ETA: By the way, you don't have a CEL or a traction light showing on the dash, do you? The A/C gets cut out when you go into limp mode, along with cruise control. I figured that would be something you would mention, but just in case...
Correct, no cel. Car is not in limp mode. One of the first things I did was have my tuner check over the latest revision; nothing he's done could have caused the AC to stop functioning.
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Old 02-19-2016, 01:31 PM   #22
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Correct, no cel. Car is not in limp mode. One of the first things I did was have my tuner check over the latest revision; nothing he's done could have caused the AC to stop functioning.
Look for the clutch relay in the wiring diagram. Also use a jumper to apply 12 V directly to the winding. The engine doesn't have to be running to check that.
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Old 02-20-2016, 02:22 AM   #23
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Yep, they went and made a "science" out of cooling the interior on ones car.

http://www.allpar.com/eek/ac.html

Life used to be so simple ....... open and turn the wing vent inward an push open the hood vent ......

Glad you are hanging out here ........ you know what you're talking about .....


humfrz
My life still is simple. R12/R290(propane) mixture 33 degree vent temps in 90 degree weather. I've got a few 16 oz cans of 12 laying around. 1993 c1500 2wd with built 4l60e and a 5.3l cammed with locker 10 bolt 3.42 gears.

To OP. Start simple check compressor clutch resistance. If that's good then hook up a set of gauges. 50~60 at autozone/oriellys/advance. Check low side is above 40 psi with compressor off. If the compressor clutch is good get some alligator clips and force it on by applying 12 volts from battery. Pressure should climb on high side and go down on the low side. I'm thinking your cycling switch is bad. Seen it 100 times. But it could be something more major. Just my thoughts.
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Old 02-20-2016, 06:22 PM   #24
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Update. I disconnected the AC clutch plug and checked for continuity between the hot wire and ground, that checked out. I then started the car with AC on and checked for 12v signal on the hotwire, no reading and I held it there for about 30 seconds. So I ran a hotwire to the plug and it powered on the clutch immediately.

So I guess I will be running through and testing all of the relay/fuses once again. If those check out I will be looking through the wiring diagram and chasing it back. Thanks for everyones help so far.
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Old 02-20-2016, 06:30 PM   #25
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Update. I disconnected the AC clutch plug and checked for continuity between the hot wire and ground, that checked out. I then started the car with AC on and checked for 12v signal on the hotwire, no reading and I held it there for about 30 seconds. So I ran a hotwire to the plug and it powered on the clutch immediately.

So I guess I will be running through and testing all of the relay/fuses once again. If those check out I will be looking through the wiring diagram and chasing it back. Thanks for everyones help so far.
Props




Now, remember what @humfrz said about the system being disabled if pressure is low. I didn't know about that so don't run it for any length of time and consider the possibility that nothing is actually wrong electrically.
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Old 02-20-2016, 07:51 PM   #26
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Alright, fuses and relays checked out once again. I was pondering on CSG Mike's original post about possibility of condenser being punctured and decided to follow all of the lines. Turns out my damn oil cooler lines were rubbing the condenser lines and punctured it. Well, shoot.

I want to avoid taking my car to the dealer, so I will order the line and replace it then fix my oil cooler line routing. I'm assuming it's safe to replace since it's already been ruptured? See attached photo. As for recharging the system, I will go to a shop to do that.

Thanks all for your help. Idiot mistake on my part.
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:42 PM   #27
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Alright, fuses and relays checked out once again. I was pondering on CSG Mike's original post about possibility of compressor being punctured and decided to follow all of the lines. Turns out my damn oil cooler lines were rubbing the compressor lines and punctured it. Well, shoot.

I want to avoid taking my car to the dealer, so I will order the line and replace it then fix my oil cooler line routing. I'm assuming it's safe to replace since it's already been ruptured? See attached photo. As for recharging the system, I will go to a shop to do that.

Thanks all for your help. Idiot mistake on my part.
On the up side, in the future you'll always be aware of the potential for chafing. Consider how much the engine rocks. Now notice every single hose and cable bundle between the chassis and the engine.

Valuable first-hand experience.
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:47 PM   #28
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Good to hear you got it sorted out .......


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