TRD lowering springs

[weederr33]

Originally Posted by TRD-X

It shouldn't affect your tune as for what dealer cost is who really knows....

I've seen so many people posting different install prices from dealerships so now I always tell them to contact their local dealer for pricing.

Fair enough. I'll just get a quote.

[Teseo]

If springs cost 200+ usd, expect 200+ more for installation. Allignment is apart

[babydriver]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

You get used to it and become very good at applied geometry and judging heights.

Intuitive geometry.

[stevesnj]

Originally Posted by TRD-X

Most dealerships will check your alignment from free and only charge you if the car is out of alignment.
Your ok to drive around as the only thing that happens from having your car out of alignment is minor tire wear.

A lot of people here don't know about the ECU update look on page 20 of this install pdf file.

http://www.trdsparks.com/install/PTR07-18130inst.pdf

Didn't know this...have to check if this was done during alignment. How critical you think it is?

[TRD-X]

Originally Posted by stevesnj

Didn't know this...have to check if this was done during alignment. How critical you think it is?

It's not a big deal seeing how owners install lowering springs and coilovers without doing this with zero problems.

I just noted this for people having dealerships doing their install to make sure it was done as part of the install price.

[JimR]

I installed the TRD springs a few weeks ago on Koni Yellows (before and after pics here). I also did the factory crash bolts up front. As a DIY effort, it's not terrible. I own a spring compressor, bench vise, and a healthy assortment of sockets and hand tools. The TRD spring kit comes with shorter bump stops and a bunch of brand-new fasteners, which is a nice value. I only paid $211 shipped for PTR07-18130 from Conicelli Toyota with a 10% coupon code (see Google).

I've done similar work on a dozen car of my cars, and the twins are among the easiest. I mean, RWD car with front struts, right? Konis require drilling the rear top hat center hole out to 12mm. On eBay I found a 12mm drill bit with a 3/8" reduced shank to fit my regular drill. The most difficult part is the top nut on the top hats. I gorilla'd them off them with the help of a just-barely-contacting offset box wrench. The Koni top nuts are larger 19mm. I tightened them with a MacGyver setup: 1/4"-inch drive socket and extension holding the strut piston in place, nestled inside a 19mm (aka 3/4") spark plug socket to turn the top nut.

I drove the car a short distance to settle the suspension, and used toe plates to measure the uncorrected toe at 1/8" toe-in front, and 1/16" toe-in rear. Not badly far off spec. I forgot to check the toe before I began, as it only had 1,000 miles on the odometer. You will want an alignment after installing these springs (too much toe kills tires to death), but you won't wear them out driving down the street to the alignment shop.

I left the rear alignment alone, and adjusted the front toe to 1/16" toe-in. I put a paint dot on both inner tie-rods, and turned each an equal number of flats to get there. It didn't take much. Turn each tie-rod equally, and you won't have to re-center the steering wheel. My car tracks down the road fine, so the cross-camber (camber difference on each side) must be pretty close. The LF vs RF average camber was about -1.5 degrees according to my bubble camber gauge. My garage floor isn't exactly level, but I wasn't going to be arsed to get out the shims and fluid level to measure exact camber. I sleep fine.

The Koni/TRD setup is tolerable for daily use, not much worse than newish OE stuff. You'll tussle over low frequency hits like pot holes and square-edged pavement lips, but you're already driving a sports car, so your feelings won't be hurt. The car looks good with a little rake, and I've already caught a few necks breaking to check out the car.

[jag3494]

Originally Posted by trvth

Here are some shots of my FR-S with TRD lowering springs. I took these shots with a cell phone at dusk, but I think they show the clearance and the wheel gap OK.

The TRD springs were installed by the dealer as part of the original purchase. However, I did drive the car for ~2 weeks (1200 miles) before the TRD additions were installed (springs, sway bars, quick shifter, cold air intake, exhaust, brake pads). With the springs installed, I can no longer use the side entrance to the parking lot at work; it scrapes. I have to use the shallower main entrance. I like the look and the feel of the springs, but I do have to be more careful about clearance now.

I use her as a daily driver, currently averaging a little under 100 miles per day. I likey.

How do you like the short shifter and brake pads? Are they worth it? I've only lyric heard negative things about the short shifter. Some people say it doesn't feel like it goes all the way into gear, and they take away from the great driving experience of the car.

[trvth]

Originally Posted by jag3494

How do you like the short shifter and brake pads? Are they worth it? I've only lyric heard negative things about the short shifter. Some people say it doesn't feel like it goes all the way into gear, and they take away from the great driving experience of the car.

I like the short shifter; I'm pretty sure that you'll find others on the forums who also like the short shifter. The OEM shifts were already pretty short, but I'm happy with the change. To me, the shifts appear to be just as solid as ever. I would say that it adds to the fun experience of driving the car. I now have about 35,000 miles on the short shifter, and it has performed well throughout that time. I believe a lot of people have the short shifter, and I've heard only favorable reports here in the forums.

The TRD brake pads are grippy, and give me increased confidence in my stopping power. I'm sure there are any number of alternative, grippy pads available, and I reckon a lot of them are cheaper than the TRD pads. Again, I'm happy with this upgrade. I don't know whether I'll stick with the TRD pads when it's time to replace them (soon).

I haven't tracked the car yet, but I'm thinking about it. There are plenty of additional brake upgrades without going BBK ... high-quality brake fluid, steel braided lines, and a master cylinder brace are on my list of future upgrades.

[switchlanez]

To people who have had these springs settle after a few thousand miles, how many fingers fit in the tire-fender gap?

[Teseo]

Originally Posted by switchlanez

To people who have had these springs settle after a few thousand miles, how many fingers fit in the tire-fender gap?

Hands come in variety size, a quarter will be more accuarate

[stevesnj]

Originally Posted by Teseo

Hands come in variety size, a quarter will be more accuarate

[switchlanez]

Originally Posted by Teseo

Hands come in variety size, a quarter will be more accuarate

I know. But the variance tends to be relatively small, not on the order of double or half in width. Convenient for everyone plus something people have likely already done anyway. It's a typical gauge when car guys chat it up in a parking lot.

But a quarter would be good, measuring tape even better. Only accurate when the suspension is evenly loaded on flat ground. That loading can bring more variance than fingers. For me, fingers suffice.

[switchlanez]

I could fit 2 fingers comfortably when I first installed. Now I'm at a little under 2 fingers on all four corners. Rake has reduced so front/rear looks close to even. On other cars I've had TRD springs brought it down to just a little over 1 finger.