Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by viktorv

So after reading all 135 pages (including the pseudo-physics debate and several derailments...) I will be seriously considering this kit in the next few months. Currently I am running P&L's catted header, OP, catless FP, and catback. The volume is borderline too much for me, since I am new to the rice fields. As such, I am weighing going back to stock and get the CARB tune. I have a few questions that I'd appreciate answers to:

1. Since exhaust volume depends (at least partially) on load and rpm, does that mean the increased throughput will lead to much more noise?

2. I know dynos are relative so only % increases mean anything. So lets consider numbers adjusted to a dyno that runs a 160whp baseline. How much power should I expect from CARB + stock exhaust compared to a wizard-level (Church/MotoMike?) tune with my current exhaust setup? I'll assume Delicious is CARB + ~10hp. In case it matters, I got that sweet 93 in the good ol' midwest.

3. Does anyone recommend any midwest tuners or am I going to have to drive 11 hours to MotoEast for a top-notch tune? As I mentioned, I'm new to this and may not know if my tune is a turd or a time-bomb, so I want to go to a respected tuner.

4. Speaking of which, is there a good resource for learning how to read data and figure out what's important to watch out for? I've read a ton in these forums but when specific number ranges are mentioned, there doesn't seem to be consensus on what's "right". I just see a lot of "that AFR doesn't look right" or "the timing advance seems off". If only there was a reference table for critical variables and their respective safe operating ranges under different conditions (WOT, cruise, engine brake, etc.). And a brief description of what role each variable plays.

TL;DR: Help! I've fallen and can't pick a JRSC tune!

1. only when you step on it.

2. You won't see much gains over the CARB tune on gasoline.

3. CARB tune will save you a drive. Get a custom tune if/when you decide to use aftermarket headers.

4. That's something you need to discuss with your chosen tuner; there are a lot of different philosophies.

[dkstylezz]

Originally Posted by Andrew025

That's pretty much how mine was as well.

Did you end up replacing the rot Rex unit or do u still have the noise?

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[Andrew025]

Originally Posted by dkstylezz

Did you end up replacing the rot Rex unit or do u still have the noise?

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I sold my car with it.
It still had the noise when I sold it.

[LS1M]

Originally Posted by viktorv

1. Since exhaust volume depends (at least partially) on load and rpm, does that mean the increased throughput will lead to much more noise?

I have a totally bone stock '15 brz with the only mod being the Jackson kit. The volume level is just like stock out the tailpipe but the engine is noisier. Sounds like I have a big hair dryer under the hood. Nothing that would startle another driver, and barely any of that whine the old roots-style blowers had. Stealthy...


-Mark

[LS1M]

I am having a heck of a time getting my JSRC with Delicious flash-n-go tune to complete the obd readiness tests. Is there a trick to getting them to pass? Delicious sent me an update with "all the tests turned on" (apparently the evap and o2 tests are disabled unless you ask for them). After 100 miles (since reflash) of mixed city & hiway, I still have yet to complete three tests: evap, catalyst and o2 sensors. Do the twins have a certain "driving cycle" that forces all the tests to run?


Thanks
-Mark

[viktorv]

Originally Posted by LS1M

I have a totally bone stock '15 brz with the only mod being the Jackson kit. The volume level is just like stock out the tailpipe but the engine is noisier. Sounds like I have a big hair dryer under the hood. Nothing that would startle another driver, and barely any of that whine the old roots-style blowers had. Stealthy...


-Mark

Good to know. My header and header-back are loud enough as it is. If it won't be louder, maybe I'll keep them on and go with a custom tune.

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

1. only when you step on it.

2. You won't see much gains over the CARB tune on gasoline.

3. CARB tune will save you a drive. Get a custom tune if/when you decide to use aftermarket headers.

4. That's something you need to discuss with your chosen tuner; there are a lot of different philosophies.

2. I know I won't get much over the CARB tune with a stock header (see #3, below)

3. I already have a full exhaust with just one high-flow cat in the header. P&L EL catted header, P&L OP, P&L catless FP, P&L catback. I'm trying to gauge whether I should go back to stock. If baseline is 160 whp and CARB is 240 hp, what should I expect out of a 93oct tune with my aftermarket exhaust parts? If it's only 10 or 15 hp more, I'd rather go back to stock and CARB to quiet it down. If we are talking 20+ hp then the drive and noise could be worth it.

[Xiao Li]

Originally Posted by dkstylezz

My noise went away with the new unit and till this day it's quiet. Maybe a little louder but nothing as close as what the first unite sounded like. It was ear piercing and hard to stand next to my car with the hood open. Something was wrong. In my case that is.....

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When you filled the system with the traction oil, how much did you end up using? I ended up putting almost the whole bottle in there.

[dj2020]

Originally Posted by LS1M

I am having a heck of a time getting my JSRC with Delicious flash-n-go tune to complete the obd readiness tests. Is there a trick to getting them to pass? Delicious sent me an update with "all the tests turned on" (apparently the evap and o2 tests are disabled unless you ask for them). After 100 miles (since reflash) of mixed city & hiway, I still have yet to complete three tests: evap, catalyst and o2 sensors. Do the twins have a certain "driving cycle" that forces all the tests to run?


Thanks
-Mark

@sales@delicioustuning.com:
I'm also curious about this as well. I just unplugged my DT flex fuel kit, replugged my rear O2 sensor, and flashed a non flex fuel Flash n Go Tune to get ready for emissions readiness testing. In your experience, with mixed city/highway driving, how long will it take for my evap and O2 sensors to show ready? One tank of gas, two tanks of gas? 200-400 miles?

@LSM1:
When I was on the CARB tune, it took easily 400 miles or roughly almost two tanks of gas for my emissions sensors to show ready after disconnecting battery.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by viktorv

Good to know. My header and header-back are loud enough as it is. If it won't be louder, maybe I'll keep them on and go with a custom tune.



2. I know I won't get much over the CARB tune with a stock header (see #3, below)

3. I already have a full exhaust with just one high-flow cat in the header. P&L EL catted header, P&L OP, P&L catless FP, P&L catback. I'm trying to gauge whether I should go back to stock. If baseline is 160 whp and CARB is 240 hp, what should I expect out of a 93oct tune with my aftermarket exhaust parts? If it's only 10 or 15 hp more, I'd rather go back to stock and CARB to quiet it down. If we are talking 20+ hp then the drive and noise could be worth it.

They key is deleting BOTH cats if possible, so I'd say go big or go home.

[viktorv]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

They key is deleting BOTH cats if possible, so I'd say go big or go home.

The P&L header actually has a removable cat section, so that would be an easy modification.

Alright, so adjusted to a 160 whp baseline, 240 whp CARB, what am I looking at with aftermarket pipes and a custom tune on 93. Anyone? Bueller? Surely I can't be the first to go this route.

[kasikuusi]

Catless header small pulley delicious flash and go flexfuel e85 around 280-300 whp.

[Binary_fission]

K so i ordered my JSRC and I've been reading alot, and looks like I'm ganna be needing an oil catch can. Now I know there's bunch out there but I need a suggestion from someone who has it on their JSRC and how do they do the job with js setup. Also dual or single catch can? Any help would be much appreciate it.

Yes I did use search and read topic about catch cans. That's just general info about them which I already watched enough youtube vids.

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[kasikuusi]

I have Cusco. Also 700 DW injectors and DW fuel pump for e85.

[dj2020]

Originally Posted by Binary_fission

K so i ordered my JSRC and I've been reading alot, and looks like I'm ganna be needing an oil catch can. Now I know there's bunch out there but I need a suggestion from someone who has it on their JSRC and how do they do the job with js setup. Also dual or single catch can? Any help would be much appreciate it.

Yes I did use search and read topic about catch cans. That's just general info about them which I already watched enough youtube vids.

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I run my JRSC kit with a Mishimoto PCV catch can only. I use a 12mm Boomba check valve between the intake manifold and can itself. The Boomba check valve and Mishimoto tubing replaces the check valve that came with the JRSC kit and the OEM tubing. This is a street driven car only and I definitely catch oil in this PCV can when I change the oil every 3000-4000 miles.

http://www.boombaracing.com/check-valve-12-mm-1-2/

Mishimoto never made a production CCV (driver side) can so I never really bothered looking into another solution. My MAF sensor never got fouled. One of these days, I'll check the intercooler, piping, and throttle body for signs of oil. From my research on the forum, some say you need the CCV one as well, some say you don't. YMMV.