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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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01-22-2019, 09:35 PM | #15 |
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+1 on getting replacement sensors up front. I don't know about subsequent years but the early ones were way over-torqued, at least the couple that I've removed. Threads were mangled.
Might be better to just leave the originals with the factory header in case you need to go back to stock.
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01-22-2019, 10:16 PM | #16 |
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Lots of good tips already in this thread -- I'll throw in a couple:
That one hard-to-reach header nut (on the driver's side I believe it was) -- you can get a ratchet or torque wrench on it with a 6" extension, u-joint and 14 mm crow's foot. I found that the header-to-engine nuts vibrate loose over time, even after torque-ing them a second time after a few days' driving after initial installation. I installed Nord-lock locking washers and haven't had the problem since. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VAW3AC When I reinstalled OEM front LCAs and tie-rod ends to get legal for STX, I used the M12 sized Nord-locks instead of the cotter pins for the castle nuts. They've held up great there too. |
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01-23-2019, 09:55 AM | #17 | |||||
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https://parts.theautobarnsubaru.com/...2641AA640.html https://parts.theautobarnsubaru.com/...2690AB000.html Quote:
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Thank you! I couldn't find that anywhere on the CSG site (maybe I'm blind) so I wasn't sure if it would come with any or what. This makes me feel a lot better. Quote:
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01-23-2019, 10:08 AM | #18 |
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But no instructions on installing the studs in the header so they don't fall out... If that's even possible. Wish I'd been sent this when I asked if there were instruction s even though it doesn't have this bit, which is what I needed...
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01-23-2019, 10:48 AM | #19 | |
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Help's that I always have access to a nice shop and engine hoists though lol |
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01-23-2019, 12:09 PM | #20 |
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For the engine mounts, I would suggest:
This would also overlap with the overpipe installation as you should move the overpipe into position while you're replacing the mounts on the passenger side. I would feel very uneasy about trying to jack the whole engine up to replace the both mounts at the same time because you would essentially be balancing the entire engine on one small jack point. In my opinion, it's much safer to do one side at a time and doing it that way should alleviate some of your concerns. As you've already alluded to, the hardest and most time-consuming part of this installation is going to be breaking the old salted nuts (lol) off. Some angled/joint sockets might help there as well. Also, loosely thread on all of the nuts for every connection and get everything loosely connected together before torquing them all down. Be sure to get back under there after a few heat cycles to check the torque on the nuts. We've had our cars for about the same amount of time and I'm glad to see you finally starting on power mods. I'll probably hit you up for some switches soon! |
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01-23-2019, 12:22 PM | #21 | |
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My previous car to this was a 16 year old Outback with 286,000 miles... and while it was in relatively good shape, it was easy to break old, brittle bushings/hoses/things while working on it because they were so old - so that's probably part of where my apprehension comes from.
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01-23-2019, 12:45 PM | #22 | |
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01-23-2019, 01:15 PM | #23 | |
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Boooo...
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01-23-2019, 01:29 PM | #24 |
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When you go to tighten the exhaust, get everything loosely into position (just a little bit loose, leave about 1/8" of play at each nut/bolt) and torque fasteners starting at the mid-pipe and working your way forward. The nuts at the cylinder heads should be the last ones torqued.
When you're finished installing the mounts and headers, leave it on jack stands with the under panels off and let the car run about 15 minutes, then let it cool off for a bit. Repeat a time or two then recheck all nuts and bolts. If you're looking for some "while you're in there" parts, consider the sti trans mount and steering bolts/bushings. Last edited by gtengr; 01-23-2019 at 01:46 PM. |
01-23-2019, 02:09 PM | #25 | ||
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I appreciate all the feedback! I'm feeling a bit more confident about this install. It's all going to come down to how rusty the existing bolts are. If it comes down to needing an angle grinder and stuff, then I'll probably just call it quits and visit a local shop. Fingers crossed it doesn't come to that!
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01-23-2019, 02:29 PM | #26 |
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If your are able to have the car jacked up in advance with the skid plate removed and soak the bolts with PB blaster 24 hours beforehand. And have a cheap torch from home depot (I use the yellow bottle of propane not sure the exact names) ready. You will be amazed how 10 secs of torch on a bolt will make it so easy.
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01-23-2019, 03:36 PM | #27 | |
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And yes, I plan on jacking the car up the night before, removing the heat shields, and soaking everything in PB blaster. Also, anyone think it's worth running the car briefly day-of, just to warm up the exhaust a bit (not burning hot obviously) or will that just expand the studs too and not really be worth the effort?
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01-23-2019, 03:48 PM | #28 |
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tl;dr version
- take off metal under pan - take off paper pan - unbolt passenger side engine mount - remove stock header - lift engine gently - remove overpipe - put ace over pipe where stock overpipe was, but do not tighten down - drop engine back down and torque engine mount - put on ace header - torque header to engine - bolt ace merge overpipe to header - bolt ace merge overpipe to front pie - check torque - flash tune - revise tune - check torque on all hardware after a few heat cycles. Re-check until a subsequent recheck yields no additional torque being needed. O2 sensors left out to do at your convenience. |
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