Spuds' Vroom Machine

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Spuds

The TOB started making fun noises last weekend at precisely 59,210 miles, so it looks like I'll also be pulling the transmission to fix it. While I contemplate going through all that effort for a $30 part, I figured I would start getting this updated.

Pulling the transmission is not bad, just keep in mind how much height you actually need to get the transmission out. It is not particularly heavy though a transmission jack helps a lot. I also recommend supporting the rear of the engine with another jack or straps like Ultra does. Makes things a bit easier. Might as well swap clutch forks while you are in there, even if it is for another OE one.

Originally Posted by Spuds

Yeah, getting hooked on AX gave me something to target

Building to a target is much easier. It also makes you realize how haphazard some street "builds" are

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Pulling the transmission is not bad, just keep in mind how much height you actually need to get the transmission out. It is not particularly heavy though a transmission jack helps a lot. I also recommend supporting the rear of the engine with another jack or straps like Ultra does. Makes things a bit easier. Might as well swap clutch forks while you are in there, even if it is for another OE one.



Building to a target is much easier. It also makes you realize how haphazard some street "builds" are

Yeah, debating which size jack stand to get (I don't trust my current ones that high. The problem with tall ones is that the shortest setting puts the car leaning up against it for the first end lifted while short stands seem a bit sketchy at higher positions... And I don't want to have to use my old stands as a mid point to use the fancy new stands.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Spuds

Yeah, debating which size jack stand to get (I don't trust my current ones that high. The problem with tall ones is that the shortest setting puts the car leaning up against it for the first end lifted while short stands seem a bit sketchy at higher positions... And I don't want to have to use my old stands as a mid point to use the fancy new stands.

Safely getting the car off the ground that high is tough. I was using a set of recalled harbor freight stands last time I did mine, that was before I knew they were recalled. I'd recommend investing in a quick jack if you plan on doing a lot of work yourself.

[fryfun]

Originally Posted by Spuds

Suspension:
--Anti-sway bars:. Starting with a stiffer front, stock rear. Needs more research.
--LCAs:. Leaning Verus RLCAs, because

Brakes:
--SS brake lines: might not make a difference, but I won't know if I don't try them.
--Pads: willing to try a recommended streetable pad if there's a good reason. Still on original pads and rotors.
-Fluid: Likewise as pads, though I change this out with decent dot4 periodically

Wheels/Tires:
--I am probably going to stick with street tires for now (not autox sticky). I like the advan sports and I feel like I will learn everything faster on less grippy tires.
--light/forged 17x8/8.5 wheels would be nice lol

My 2 cents...

Sway bar: I was recommended to stick with OEMs after installing coilovers. If you are not happy with the OEMs, then you switch them cuz you will know why you need stiffer sway bars. If you are happy with the OEM handling, no reason to switch them at all.

LCAs: Verus is the way to go. I am quite happy with it.

SS brake lines: I also have a set in my garage but never put them on. OEM brake lines are doing fine so far.

Pads: Winmax W2/W3 is a solid choice for street and mild performance upgrade.

Fluid: Motul RBF600.

Wheels/Tires:
You have RPF1 already just slap on some good tires and you are good to go. Unless you have the money and really want the forged wheels, no reason to upgrade RPF1 by spending $2k+ on a forged set to gain minimal advantages IMO.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by fryfun

My 2 cents...

Sway bar: I was recommended to stick with OEMs after installing coilovers. If you are not happy with the OEMs, then you switch them cuz you will know why you need stiffer sway bars. If you are happy with the OEM handling, no reason to switch them at all.

LCAs: Verus is the way to go. I am quite happy with it.

SS brake lines: I also have a set in my garage but never put them on. OEM brake lines are doing fine so far.

Pads: Winmax W2/W3 is a solid choice for street and mild performance upgrade.

Fluid: Motul RBF600.

Wheels/Tires:
You have RBF1 already just slap on some good tires and you are good to go. Unless you have the money and really want the forged wheels, no reason to upgrade RBF1 by spending $2k+ on a forged set to gain minimal advantages IMO.

Swaybars-. Yeah I hear you, on the logic, but most of the advice/knowledge I got in the suspension and track/autox section indicates I'm going to want a stiffer front sway pretty quickly. I figured I might as well do it now since I have to take off a bunch of stuff anyway. I'm now thinking something like the Perrin 19mm to give me a few options to try out that aren't much removed from stock.

How long have you had the LCAs? Hit any potholes and such? Not that I wish potholes upon you, just wondering.

Brakes- Thinking I might just wait another year on upgrading brakes. The OEM pads are still pretty thick and rotors look and feel good. Plus brakes are really easy to do if I decide I want to upgrade mid-season. I'll keep your suggestions in mind though.

I think wheels might be a next year thing too, unless I can't stand the visual gap from camber. Yeah, silly reason but I am human lol. Probably stick with rpf1s in a larger size if that is the case.

[VoltsFRS2013]

Hey Spuds, just a FYI you may already be aware of but wanted to toss your way if not.

If / when you do your TOB & Clutch, make sure you specifically ask from Toyota for a 17+ TOB.

May as well ask for a 2020's TOB. They're not the same SKU Number as the 13-16. Beefier and less prone to failure as the 13-16s were. Was one of the revisions in the newer models. No point in replacing with the same or equal quality that comes in the models prone to failure

[fryfun]

Originally Posted by Spuds

How long have you had the LCAs? Hit any potholes and such? Not that I wish potholes upon you, just wondering.

Almost a year. Installed everything last Christmas. Did about 14k miles on them till now. I hit countless potholes cuz Michigan, Indiana and Illinois salt road like hell and never fix anything.

Originally Posted by Spuds

I think wheels might be a next year thing too, unless I can't stand the visual gap from camber. Yeah, silly reason but I am human lol. Probably stick with rpf1s in a larger size if that is the case.

Yeah, that was my first thought. Can't beat the 17x9 rpf1 performance/price wise.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by VoltsFRS2013

Hey Spuds, just a FYI you may already be aware of but wanted to toss your way if not.

If / when you do your TOB & Clutch, make sure you specifically ask from Toyota for a 17+ TOB.

May as well ask for a 2020's TOB. They're not the same SKU Number as the 13-16. Beefier and less prone to failure as the 13-16s were. Was one of the revisions in the newer models. No point in replacing with the same or equal quality that comes in the models prone to failure

Actually going with a PDM TSK1 upgrade to the spindle and bearing:
https://sixstarbernie.com/i-23179109...1990-2018.html

The bearing might be tricky to source if it goes out again (theoretically a Toyota part that was modified and marked up 200%). But that's a problem for future Spuds.

[Spuds]

The Winter 2022-2023, 9 year, 60k mile refresh list:
(Yeah, I know this is boring, but if I'm keeping a build thread, I'm keeping my planning in it so I don't forget)

Already done: Oil(10/22), Brake fluid (4/22), clutch fluid (4/22)

Todo (new parts in bold):
X--Lift car and remove summer wheels for storage
X--Clean up garage and workbench
X--Disconnect battery?
X--Remove all necessary underpanels
X--Drain transmission and differential
--Inspect all bushings, mounts, boots, etc. (Need another list lol)
X--Inspect for rust/damage
--Inspect brakes (they're fine, but just in case)
X--Remove exhaust (because trans)
X--Remove driveshaft (because trans)
X--Begin transmission removal + support engine (ultras hanger method?)
X--Lift car higher and complete transmission removal
X--Install TSK1, TOB, Verus pivot and Verus fork (did not install Verus parts due to incompatibility with tsk)
X--Reinstall transmission and STi transmission mount
X--Decrease lifted height and complete transmission install.
X--Loosen steering rack and stock engine mounts
X--Lift engine, R&R engine mounts with STi engine mounts
X--Replace spark plugs
X--Lower engine onto mounts and secure
X--Press out SR bushings and replace with Whiteline steering rack bushings, secure SR.
X--Install Whiteline subframe inserts (inspect bushings first)
--Either:
----Press/cut out stock diff mounts and press in STi Diff mounts
X----Install Whiteline diff inserts
X--Reinstall driveshaft
X--Reinstall exhaust + PTuning EL
X--Fill trans and diff with Amsoil Trans/diff fluid
X--R&R rear LCA with Verus LCA
X--R&R rear top mounts with new OEM top mounts
X--R&R front top mounts with Vorshlag camber plates
X--R&R suspension with RCE Tarmac 2s
--R&R front sway bar with Perrin 19" front swaybar
--Set rough ride height and alignment
--Adjust OFT tune for header and flash to ecu
--Start car and check for exhaust leaks?
--Reinstall underpanels
--Install "winter" wheels
--Lower car
--Roll car around/drive a bit
--Monitor for tune problems
--Adjust ride height/alignment as necessary
--Bring somewhere for alignment/balancing


Phew! That's tiring just to look at...

[Spuds]

Ok, new questions I need to answer.

1. What to use to support/lower/lift the transmission with? Floor jack or get a "cheap" transmission jack?
2. I am getting all new exhaust nuts, exhaust gaskets, trans bolts/nuts since I started rounding off a few already. Anything else I should get while I am at it?

I promise pics and write up soon lol

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Spuds

Ok, new questions I need to answer.

1. What to use to support/lower/lift the transmission with? Floor jack or get a "cheap" transmission jack?
2. I am getting all new exhaust nuts, exhaust gaskets, trans bolts/nuts since I started rounding off a few already. Anything else I should get while I am at it?

I promise pics and write up soon lol

I'd recommended an all metal lock nut on the header to overpipe connection. These like to work loose.

A low profile transmission jack makes things a lot nicer. I used my regular floor jack and it was a pita. Just keep in mind that with the trans jack you need to make sure the car is high enough off the ground to get the jack under with the transmission on it, or you need to wiggle the the transmission up onto the jack under the car and spill a bunch of transmission oil out the tail. Ask me how I know that one.

I also recommend these if you plan on working on your car a lot yourself. Just reuse till thoroughly soiled. Makes post work cleanup while drinking a victory beverage nicer.

https://www.amazon.com/Drymate-OSM29...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

[villainous_frx]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

I'd recommended an all metal lock nut on the header to overpipe connection. These like to work loose.

Can confirm this... mine have worked their way loose and sounds like a two stroke when cold started

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

I'd recommended an all metal lock nut on the header to overpipe connection. These like to work loose.

A low profile transmission jack makes things a lot nicer. I used my regular floor jack and it was a pita. Just keep in mind that with the trans jack you need to make sure the car is high enough off the ground to get the jack under with the transmission on it, or you need to wiggle the the transmission up onto the jack under the car and spill a bunch of transmission oil out the tail. Ask me how I know that one.

I also recommend these if you plan on working on your car a lot yourself. Just reuse till thoroughly soiled. Makes post work cleanup while drinking a victory beverage nicer.

https://www.amazon.com/Drymate-OSM29...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Would that recommendation extend to the overpipe to front pipe nuts as well? Those were a PITA to get off, wouldn't locking nuts make it harder if I had to do it again?

Trans jack, the internal debate rages on. There's 2 types that aren't super expensive, $140 vs $230, or I could get creative and get a $100 motorcycle jack...

Hmmm, I feel like with my luck those are single use mats lol. Still a good idea probably.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Spuds

Would that recommendation extend to the overpipe to front pipe nuts as well? Those were a PITA to get off, wouldn't locking nuts make it harder if I had to do it again?

Trans jack, the internal debate rages on. There's 2 types that aren't super expensive, $140 vs $230, or I could get creative and get a $100 motorcycle jack...

Hmmm, I feel like with my luck those are single use mats lol. Still a good idea probably.

I'm not sure on the OP/FP connection as I have been on a 1 piece OP/FP combo the whole time. I just know it seems on all aftermarket headers it always seems to be the gasket that goes. I had a couple leak till I went to lock nuts and I have seen several other twins at the track blow it out. It does make it harder to get apart as it won't spin free once it's loose but it's worth it IMO. I never seize it and have a bolt that is just long enough so I don't have to spend so much time unthreading it. You really are not going to pull it apart too many times after it is in(knock on wood) so it's not a huge concern.

The nice thing with those mats is it catches the fluid so it doesn't spread, the bad thing is sometimes it's wet and you don't realize it and you crawl through it