haxx's_boosted_rallybacker_widebody_brz

[HaXx]

i crawled back under the car, its been a bit less than two months, i just raised the rlca coil mounting position from the lows to the highs. the low was just too low. upon inspection of the axle, just that side was still leaking, a bit more grease accumulated. raising the rlca holes will hopefully alleviate some of the stress. this thing was pretty damn low. there was 1cm between the tire and fender at rest, the wheel constantly rubbed the fender over bigger bumps, ~10 times during every trip to the store, it was absolutely not functional. it wasnt a problem when the wheels were very tucked, dropping on coils and rlca made the wheels tuck a ton, which i hate. i bought 25mm spacers, then with the wheels flush, the rubbing problem presented, which i could only stand for about a week. so i raised it up, and im much happier now, and the axle probably is too. you can see it made the exhaust a little wet, so i polished all that when i was under there with steel wool and brake clean. including a pic(last) of when i was slammed and rubbed persistently. it looks like im accelerating hard bc of the rake, but that was just its ride height driving normally

[HaXx]

[HaXx]

put these camber plates in while it was at the wrap shop
spoiler alert, its going to be gloss nardo gray

[DarkPira7e]

All that work and you've still got the foam on your crash bar. I'm impressed. I think the first time I had to take the bumper off, I gave that thing a challenge to Mortal Kombat and kicked its ass in half.

Sweet build though, I'd never have the balls to widebody. I'll stick to blown engines as my MO

[Joveen]

Originally Posted by DarkPira7e

All that work and you've still got the foam on your crash bar. I'm impressed. I think the first time I had to take the bumper off, I gave that thing a challenge to Mortal Kombat and kicked its ass in half.

Sweet build though, I'd never have the balls to widebody. I'll stick to blown engines as my MO

Join the club Dark. I'm doing it after boost. The build coming in dyl!

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[HaXx]

Originally Posted by DarkPira7e

All that work and you've still got the foam on your crash bar. I'm impressed. I think the first time I had to take the bumper off, I gave that thing a challenge to Mortal Kombat and kicked its ass in half.

Sweet build though, I'd never have the balls to widebody. I'll stick to blown engines as my MO

they may cut our fenders, BUT THEY WILL NEVER TAKE OUR FOAM CRASH BARS!!!!

[DarkPira7e]

Originally Posted by HaXx

they may cut our fenders, BUT THEY WILL NEVER TAKE OUR FOAM CRASH BARS!!!!

I mean, it makes sense. The car is technically "wider" in a way with the foam on.

[HaXx]

Now that the build is complete, heres a complete list of what everything cost if you are looking for information to do the same:

Rallybacker v2 full kit 2100 shipped(black friday special)
Used FA500coils w Swifts 950 shipped
Used SPL RLCA 280 shipped
SPC rear toe arms 190 shipped
alignment----------------------------------------135
new forgestars 18x11-6 square 1700 shipped
25mm spacers for rear ~50
Cheetahwrap 60ft vinyl roll 400
kit install+ tires ~2,600
Pro vinyl wrap 2,300

when i dropped off the car/kit and wheels, the shop that installed it did some test fitting to find the right tire fit, and i got tires from them, gmax rs ($600). dont do 18x11 square like me, i did not know anything at the time and didnt ask many questions. dont do this. ask questions from those who have been there, and actually take their advice. but 18x11 do fit fyi and its what im running. run 18x9.5 front //18x11 rear

i bought a vinyl roll myself and wrapped one panel and said nope, handed it off to a guy that works at the shop that did the install, but vinyls on the side for about half as much. he used the roll i bought and loved the material i had despite it being affordable. the installing shop quoted 4,500 for wrapping. vinyl wrapping a widebody car with front lips etc is about 2/3rds more involved than wrapping a stockbody.

please ask any questions you may have

[Joveen]

What offsets do you recommend running for 18x9.5f and 18x11r? What tire size with those numbers. I like a little meat with a little stretch

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[HaXx]

@Joveen Extremely available wheels are 18x9.5+25 fronts and 18x10.5+15 rears with 50mm 114.3 conversion spacers front and rear. You can typically find enkei's, cosmis, and kansei in these staggered specs used, the offsets are slightly more aggressive on the cosmis/kansei. The reason forgestars are so overran is because they have Extreme offsets which require less spacers and come in 5x100.

My exact specs are 18x11-6 square with 25mm spacers rear, so if you punch that in wherlitfit and compare that to the specs you have in question..

Tires for rear in 275/35r18 are widely available used, very common size, or dirt cheap new from federal, or nankang ns25 on ebay. This is a good size for 10.5 and 11. 18x9.5's I believe best utilize the popular 245/255 35r18

I would urge u to buy used, so many people are looking to sell these 9.5 10.5 setups to move into the 3p game

Cosmis lineup is 18x9.5+10, 18x11+8
Kansei line is 18x9.5+22, 18x10.5+12
Enkeis come in 18x9.5+25, 18x10.5+15
Forgestar 18x9.5-25, 18x11-6

[HaXx]

[HaXx]

Clutch and TOB changed at 47,500.
Trans fluid and diff fluid changed as well

I changed the tob early into its signs of failure so the output shaft was fine, and the clutch was changed at the perfect interval. Any later and it would have been pushing it.

[Joveen]

What clutch did you get?

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[HaXx]

Originally Posted by Joveen

What clutch did you get?

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Oem replacement, i did not get a new pressure plate or flywheel because i replaced the clutch just in time before its backing plate would have started to tear up the flywheel + pp. the oem trans/clutch has been wonderful for 262/195wheel

part #30100AA870